[rick505]

First, sorry if this isn't an appropriate topic for this specific forum but couldn't figure out the best place to post.

First, I'm a new rider with no motorcycling experience.  Completed my MSF BRC a couple weeks ago and visited a RE dealer last Friday.  He had three models in stock, Classic, Electra and Custom.  I didn't really like the chrome on the custom so narrowed it down to the Classic (British Racing Green) and the Electra (Black).  I believe both are 2008 so "lean burn" engines in both.  Dealer mentioned basically the same bike but the Electra is more 70's styling.  When I arrived home I scoured the parts and accessories catalog and page 7 outlines the specs for both.  Will I notice the additional compression of the Electra?  I'm at approximately 5000 feet elevation if that matters.  I also see the Electra has "Electronic" ignition and I saw in the specifications sheet that the Electra also has "gear type" lubrication over the "Positive plunger type" of the classic.  Significant??  One obvious difference is the front disc brake of the Electra.  One significant draw to the classic is the "blinged" picture on the cover of the catalog.  That really makes me keep revisiting the Classic.

So, the long drawn out question.....give me your advice so I can hopefully make a decision this week.  I'm looking for things like reliability, ride characteristics, etc.  He didn't have a military version or that would also make  it to the mix I'm afraid.

Thanks in advance,

Rick Duncan
Albuquerque, NM

[ace.cafe]

If in fact they both have the same engines, which you seem to indicate, then it's basically a matter of style.

If the "Classic" has the drum front brake, then that's probably a left over Iron Barrel original type engine. There were some of those titled as 2008.
You can tell right away because the engine looks different, and the easiest thing to spot is that the old classic has black painted cylinder fins, and the newer Lean-Burn AVL engine is all silver colored.

There's alot to be said about the differences between the Iron Barrel and the AVL Lean Burn, but in the end it comes down to personal choice.
If you want "the old Bullet" then the Iron Barrel classic is it.
If you want an "improved Bullet", with some modernizations, and the disc front brake, then the AVL lean burn Electra has that.
They are both pretty comparable in power.

For us to really give good answers, we'll need to know what the bikes have for the engines.
All of us here have our opinions. But, it's probably a toss-up, depending on personal taste.

[REpozer]

I live 700 miles away from a dealer ,so for me I decided on an AVL(Lean-Burn) Classic. That being said I believe that I would have also enjoyed an Iron barrel ( came close to buying one)
I live at sea level my AVL runs good.My thoughts for running at 5000 feet might be an Idle adjustment(easy) but your dealer can answer that pretty easy.
Which RE to choose? I think you should  play it safe and get one of each.

[fun2drum]

I got the Electra and like it, but then I'm not trying to stay true to the early designs.  I just like the bike with its styling and all.  I got a chance to ride a Bullet with the front drum brake a couple of months ago and I'd say that's the most noticeable difference between the two.  I had to squeeze at least twice as hard to stop or slow down with the drum brake, but I guess that's something you get used to.   The AVL is a little peppier than the iron engine, but neither is going to be doing 80 mph. 

For what it's worth, I almost bought the military bike because it's just soooo cool.  Oh well. 

[Leonard]

If both engines are the lean burn then it's a toss up, just a matter of personal taste.  Since you mentioned the Electra had higher compression I suspect the classic is an iron barrel.  I think that the Electra would be more suitable to a first time rider.
Good Luck,
Leonard

[PhilJ]

I think Rick, that the classic your referring to is just like mine, in fact I'm positive, It's Classic in the styling of everything except the engine, which is as you stated, AVL.

The difference you observed in compression is the way the web site sometimes doesn't distinguish between the iron barrel and AVL.

Being an '08 like mine, it has the AVL and the compression is the same as the Electra.

So basically it's just a styling issue for you. The double leading shoe brake on the classic is totally adequate but takes longer to break in.

As for the 5000', I'm not sure but the CV, constant velocity, carb will go a long way towards keeping it running good. But some of the carb gurus will probably chime in if something different is needed in the carb. If you dealer is in your same location, he should also be able to answer your concern. I hope this helps.

Edit - Rick, Ace is right about the possibility of the classic being an 'Iron", there were a few in '08. But Ace is wrong about the AVL not having black barrel. They do on the Classic, but not on the Electra. You can tell by looking. The AVL will have different looking valve covers.

[Joe28]

Hey first welcome to the R.E. web site!
Then, also welcome to the EXCITING world of 2 wheels!
What ever scoot you decide to ride, you will never forget it!
First, the R.E. are all a great bikes!
That being said, you gotta do a bit more main tenacne to keep these babies running.
So, you are either mechanically inclined, or want to be to own one.
Don't let that sour you, these are not you average bike, so if you want something,"Different" go with a R.E.
It's nothing that you can't do, just check this, adjust that. Between this site and a manual, you can do it, easily.
I taught my 2 sons how to work on bikes with my first R.E.!
This is my second, R.E.. I had a '04 Bullet that I made, "period correct", with all the classic parts I could bolt onto it.
I now have a Military with a Electra engine.
I like the new motor set up better, (but the look of the classic iron cylinder better. But, I grew up when that style of engine ruled the world). This bike has only has 100 miles, but already it has more power than my '04, shifts better and has a better clutch set up, (no drag).
I'd go with either, but if you looking for a difference, go with the disc brake set up.
The drum will stop you, but nothing beats a disc, especially for a "newbie".
What ever one you choose, you can't go wrong.
Some advice, order a manual, a few filters(oil), chain lube when you get the scoot.'
Also, if you need a helmet, riding jacket, pants, gloves, etc. while your getting the bike GET those. Most dealers will cut you the best price then.
Go back and give him first shot at any parts you need. Get to know him, him you. It'll be worth it in the end!
Good luck, and let up know how you made out!
Joe
I ride, therefore I am!

[ace.cafe]

Edit - Rick, Ace is right about the possibility of the classic being an 'Iron", there were a few in '08. But Ace is wrong about the AVL not having black barrel. They do on the Classic, but not on the Electra. You can tell by looking. The AVL will have different looking valve covers.

Well, I guess I learn something every day!
I didn't know that they are painting the AVL cylinders black on the AVL Classic.
Thanks for straightening me out on that Phil!

[PhilJ]

Edit - Rick, Ace is right about the possibility of the classic being an 'Iron", there were a few in '08. But Ace is wrong about the AVL not having black barrel. They do on the Classic, but not on the Electra. You can tell by looking. The AVL will have different looking valve covers.

Well, I guess I learn something every day!
I didn't know that they are painting the AVL cylinders black on the AVL Classic.
Thanks for straightening me out on that Phil!

Hey Ace,

If you go to Enfieldmotorcycle.com , then the bikes, the Classic shown is an AVL.
Then look at the Military and It still shows the Iron. There's just a slight difference in the height of the barrel that is black. Another way of telling the difference, in addition to the location of the compression release on the valve adjuster plate on the AVL.

[ace.cafe]

Edit - Rick, Ace is right about the possibility of the classic being an 'Iron", there were a few in '08. But Ace is wrong about the AVL not having black barrel. They do on the Classic, but not on the Electra. You can tell by looking. The AVL will have different looking valve covers.

Well, I guess I learn something every day!
I didn't know that they are painting the AVL cylinders black on the AVL Classic.
Thanks for straightening me out on that Phil!

Hey Ace,

If you go to Enfieldmotorcycle.com , then the bikes, the Classic shown is an AVL.
Then look at the Military and It still shows the Iron. There's just a slight difference in the height of the barrel that is black. Another way of telling the difference, in addition to the location of the compression release on the valve adjuster plate on the AVL.

Actually Phil, I can spot an AVL in a heartbeat, because I look at the head and can immediately see what's what..
But, I errantly tried to pick an "easy" thing to look at for the "newbie" guy that was trying to determine what was what.
Unfortunately, I picked the wrong thing to point out, because I didn't know about them painting the AVL cylinders on the classics with the AVL.

But I personally have no trouble spotting them.

Thanks, though!

[rick505]

Thanks everyone.  I've gotten enough to think about.  I was referencing the information in catalog #10 regarding the differences in compression ratios, etc.  I do recall the dealer telling me the engines in both he had in stock were "Lean Burn" or AVL engines.  I guess that makes it one less thing to contrast between models.  I'm leaning toward the Classic because for some reason it just grabs me.  I think I really want to accessorize it out to look like what's on the cover of the catalog.  That solo seat really looks neat.  I left a call for the dealer earlier today but haven't heard back.  Little concerned but I work in tech support so can understand how things can pile up.  So, hopefully within a few days I'll be a member of the fold and will certainly be taking a more active role on the forums here.

Thanks again for all the thoughtful comments.  Now if I show up and he has a military model available I'm back to square one.   

[PhilJ]

But I personally have no trouble spotting them.

Thanks, though!

Well, that's what I had figured, but couldn't quit stoop myself, just in case. 

[Savoy]

Re iron or alloy jug- Forget about paint colors. Place a magnet against the cylinder, along the fins, barrel, etc.. If its aluminum alloy with the (hopefully) iron sleeve the magnet won't stick, except for the steel shield behind the spark plug.  For the record, my 2008 Classic AVL now has 1420 miles on it since June. I am consistently getting 81-83 mpg at an indicated 55 mph (probably 50 mph.) 

[TRider]

Rick,
Let me give you some wise advice.  If you go with the Electra as I did, DON'T do as I did and change the bike with toys before you take delivery..  Take it slow and easy.  Get to know your bike, break it in, and then if you feel a need for more HP or glitter, then by all means go for it. 

I had the Electra performance kit installed prior to taking deliverly and its been a nightmare.  Its now running fine and I have come to terms with the bike, but its been a long hard road.  The dealer has also been frustrated many times.  When it was all said and done, I had over $6500 invested in my bike at delivery.  Its not the money that I am concerned about at all, but if I had to do it all over again I would have taken delivery pure stock at around $5000 take home.  I took a real whipping, a really bad beating.  Wait awhile before buying performance kits, solo saddle, different color schemes, luggage racks, saddle bags, horns, larger light kits, crash bars, mirrors, windscreen, etc.  Take it easy, be cool about it all, you will have plenty of time to think it all through.

I never got to know my bike in its stock form.  I don't know how the Electra would have run in its stock form.  I regret that decision.  I am also of the belief that the bike probably runs better in its stock form.  Its the way the bike was intended to run by the factory. 

Leave it alone.

[rick505]

TRider,
I understand.  I ended getting a Classic but the local shop only had it in black and I had my heart set on "British Racing Green" so he's bringing it down from the Santa Fe store Thursday (10/30).  I hope to pick it up on Saturday and ride it home.  I've been drooling over the "vintage" kit but like you want to ride it for some time and break it in and "get my bearings" so to speak.  Besides I'm still looking for a jacket, preferably leather, that looks right on the bike.  One of my plans is to ride it to the MSF range and practice some off-street but suspect that pretty much every Saturday they are using the range so may just stop and watch other students.   The range is about 1/2 way between the dealer and my house so sounds like a good spot to take a break. In any case, good advice in your message.

Thanks,

Rick

[birdmove]

    Mine is a 2007 in British racing green.About 1800 miles and totally stock. I agree with TR-leave it alone and do the break in and get to know the bike. I like mine just fine stock.

    jon

[PhilJ]

I'll ditto the leaving it stock for awhile. Got mine in April and had the Tri-Bar light put on before delivery. That was a mistake. It's a beautiful light that really is bright, but is unadjustable. The low beam is blinding to the people in front of you and high beam is a spot light. Had I known, and who would have thought it not to be adjustable, I would have waited.

After about 5000 miles I wanted just a little more exhaust sound (thumper sound), so I put on a 1960s BSA muffler and love the sound and extra torque.

Other than that, it's stock.

[TRider]

[
TRider,
 In any case, good advice in your message.

Thanks,

Rick
[/quote]



My pleasure Rick.  Good luck to you.

Terry

[AJY]

Birdmove, Ace.cafe(coolbike) saw it in readers rides, Adrian,  and everyone else who has been so abligding in my inquiry of hop ups.  All very good advise.

Thier seems to be a lot of talk about this exstended breakin, and being very careful, and yes the dealer also warned me.  I not sure I get it, 1500 to 2000 miles is a lot of riding, most riders on the east cost would hope to achieve duble that in a season.  How do you baby the bike for 2000 miles?  My expeirience has been drive it like you will ride it and that is usually the best break in.  Not that anybody should be runiing flat out all day. 
But I want to ride not baby sit, Please explain this so called breakin.  And whqat is expected. 

Thanks

[birdmove]

    The basics are the same for any new motorcycle, but the Bullet will need probably lower speeds than most other 500cc bikes. Very the throttle a lot-no cruising at the same rpm for long periods. Accelerate and decelerate a lot. Lots of shifting up and down through the gears. Keep the very first rides fairly short-especially if you break it in in warm weather. You don't want even a hint of an overheat. I did my early break in in late December and early January here in western Wa. State, so it was pretty cool. Don't "lug" the engine at all. Basically, tooling around town or residential streets might be about perfect. My dealer said keep it at 36mph or less for the first 300 miles-then 40mph or under for the next 300 miles. First service was at 300 miles at the dealer. I did a 1000 mile oil and filter change myself. Check you oil level a lot, and do it after a ride. Don't check it cold, as you very likely will get a low (and incorrect) reading. I'm at 1800 miles and still have never run it at "full throttle" yet. I've read some messages here, and at other forums, that the Bullet break in can be from 1500 to 2000 miles. Here's a couple of quotes:

    "To break it in right can be either very tedious, or completely relaxing.  I took about 1500 miles and then gave my self another 20% on top of that.  While you're working your way up to a heart stopping 60 mph, you can really learn the machine, and ponder all the performance and touring mods you'll be spending your money on in the near future.
It can be a long courtship, but it'll be worth it. "--Stipa, whom I had the pleasure of meeting.

"
     That 50mph is TOO much. At very best you are significantly cutting engine life. The idling through town isnt helping. If you are not moving you are not cooling. My suggestion would be to use the bike for pleasure instead of commuting needs until at least 1000 miles. That way you can properly break it in. Then you can use it in the way you are now. I have never found a way to short circuit the break-in. Do it complete and do it right or the bike will not be what it should be in terms of ride-ability or reliability."---Vince, whom I had the pleasure of buying my Bullet from.


     "There is a chart in your owner's manual for break in speeds and servicing. Follow it EXACTLY. you will be glad you did. Most of my warranty issues can be attributed to improper break in."--Again, from Vince.


"During the break in process, I've noticed that my iron engine runs noticeably better with increasing miles. The first 100 miles it felt very rough, and I kept it under 30. After 300 miles it was noticeably smoother and pulled better. I increased mph to 40 for short spells. After 500 it felt like it wanted  to run faster than 40 mph, so I ran it up to 45 for short spells. At 800 it would climb to 50 almost on its own, so I let it. I'm at 1000 miles now, and let it run up to 55 for short spells, where it's quite happy and pulls strongly, but I keep it under 50 most of the time. All of these miles were driven in mild weather (under 85F). My overall experience with breaking in the iron engine is that if you pay attention, it'll tell you when it's ready for a little more (provided the ambient temperature isn't too hot)."--From Huffer.

"You are going to have to use a little common sense cause I'm here to tell you that you will have a hard time running 60 kph in top gear without lugging the engine.  I think the best advice I've seen is in the Snidal manual:

             Mileage Max        Throttle Opening

           300 Mi / 500 Km                    1/4
           500 Mi / 800 Km                    1/3
           1000 Mi / 1600 Km                1/2
           1500 Mi / 2400 Km                3/4
           2000 Mi / 3200 Km                Full When Necessary"--From Leonard.

    Judging from the way my bike behaves, I think by 1500 miles, it was about broke in. Another thing is, as you reach a certain mileage, say, 600, and had been keeping it under, say, 40mph, you need to work the bike into the increased speeds carefully. So don't just go out and wrap it up to 50mph for 50 miles or something. Go on a ride, and accelerate up to 50, maybe for a mile or so, and decelerate back down for a while. Do that several times. Again, the goal is to not generate excessive heat, and to splash some lubrication on the cylinder walls (by decelerating). At 1800+ miles, I've run mine at 50-55, and once, I ran it up to 60 briefly. But I don't intend to run mine at 60 for any length of time-probably ever. I didn't buy it for freeway riding, and back roads are way more fun anyway. When I took my 2007 into Vinces for the first service, he told me mine was one of the best running Bullets he's had in. Maybe he was humoring me, but it does run well (not in a high horsepower way). It runs well, and is relatively quiet.
    Now, if you go to the Aussie Enfield forum, you will read a lot about broken pistons, main bearings going out, broken con rods and such. Read there for long, and its scary. Maybe its because they have more wide open spaces, and its more tempting to flog the bike a bit? I don't know. I'm just trying to balance the Bullet fun factor and my hopes for longevity for my bike. I'm hoping for at least 20,000 miles, and hopefully over 40,000 (as some are getting). Whereas 40,000 on my old 1976 Honda CB750K was nothing (I've seen those with 90,000 miles still running strong), on a Bullet thats quite a few miles if you did it without having to split the cases.

    Like most of us here, I'm very much still learning about my Bullet.

    Take care, Jon in Puyallup, Wa.