Author Topic: Mudguard Paint  (Read 852 times)

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heloego

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on: August 21, 2019, 11:07:18 PM
I'm modding a bud's 2008 AVL Classic 500 and I am definitely not an experienced painter.

Currently bobbing the rear mudguard, and have removed all the paint, black shit beneath, and the grayish coating (whatever it is) to get it down to raw metal.
Dents are pretty well knocked out and smoothed, and after sanding with 220 grit front-to-back it has a really nice "brushed metal" look that is just what the customer ordered.
Since I've been handling bare metal on both the front and rear mudguards I wear Latex gloves so my skin oils don't etch the metal, but naturally the ambient humidity from the monsoons, and any extraneous moisture will cause the bare metal to rust.
I've been looking for a rust inhibitor that stays clear after application (used as a Primer Coat) and is suitable for light sanding, but so far all I've been able to find is stuff that goes on clear, and then turns black.
So...two questions:
   1. Any suggestions for the kind of rust inhibitor I'm looking for?
   2. Or can I simply use several clear coats to get the desired protection?
Thanks in advance.
Helo / Dan
'18 Bonneville T-100, Blue/White
'12 C5 Classic
'06 Electra X AVL w/32mm Mikuni and Gold Star system.


Adrian II

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Reply #1 on: August 21, 2019, 11:38:08 PM
Stainless steel universal mudguard cut to length?

A.
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tooseevee

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Reply #2 on: August 21, 2019, 11:52:47 PM
I'm modding a bud's 2008 AVL Classic 500 and I am definitely not an experienced painter.

Currently bobbing the rear mudguard, and have removed all the paint, black shit beneath, and the grayish coating (whatever it is) to get it down to raw metal.
Dents are pretty well knocked out and smoothed, and after sanding with 220 grit front-to-back it has a really nice "brushed metal" look that is just what the customer ordered.
Since I've been handling bare metal on both the front and rear mudguards I wear Latex gloves so my skin oils don't etch the metal, but naturally the ambient humidity from the monsoons, and any extraneous moisture will cause the bare metal to rust.
I've been looking for a rust inhibitor that stays clear after application (used as a Primer Coat) and is suitable for light sanding, but so far all I've been able to find is stuff that goes on clear, and then turns black.
So...two questions:
   1. Any suggestions for the kind of rust inhibitor I'm looking for?
   2. Or can I simply use several clear coats to get the desired protection?
Thanks in advance.
Helo / Dan

          Have you been to Eastwood's website? They have all kinds of stuff that is for just what you're doing. They have EVerything relative to paint, paint prep, paint removal, rust preventatives, rust stabilizers, clear coats, chassis coats, powder coats, epoxies, two-part urethanes, on&on&on. I've spent thousands of dollars at Eastwoods since the late '70s.   
'08 Black AVL Classic.ACEhead 9.8:1/manifold/canister. TM32.Small open bottle/hot tube removed.Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed.Gr.TCI.Bobber seat.Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed.'30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


heloego

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Reply #3 on: August 22, 2019, 01:31:17 AM
Adrian:
A set of stainless mudguards is a no go. Mike's on a budget so we decided to cut costs a bit by sticking with the original mudguards. Already spent the time getting them to where they are now. Thanks for the suggestion, though.  ;D

tsv:
Eastwood's, huh? I'll give it a go and get back wi' ya. Thanks! ;D 
'18 Bonneville T-100, Blue/White
'12 C5 Classic
'06 Electra X AVL w/32mm Mikuni and Gold Star system.


Arizoni

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Reply #4 on: August 22, 2019, 02:48:41 AM
If you want a bare metal look just clean the surfaces with a good oil/grease remover like lacquer thinner, MEK or denatured alcohol and spray it with clear lacquer.
The surfaces must be totally oil free to insure a good bond but that should do what you want nicely.

Oh, beware of the cheap clear coats sold in the spray cans.  A few months of sunlight will cause it to break down and start to peel off.  The good stuff is expensive.
Jim
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1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


heloego

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Reply #5 on: August 23, 2019, 05:22:52 PM
Eastwood hasn't been any help so far, so I picked up a can of VHT Gloss Clear, since the VHT formula has held up nicely on the Electra.
The plan is to do some tests with the VHT as a base and top it off with Rustoleum Clear Hammered. If that goes well, then a couple top coats of the VHT again.

A patch done with only Rustoleum products seemed to work well, and I'm hoping for a good compatibility with the VHT. The owner likes the hammered look, but if it doesn't work out he'll be just as happy with the clean look of the clear gloss.
'18 Bonneville T-100, Blue/White
'12 C5 Classic
'06 Electra X AVL w/32mm Mikuni and Gold Star system.


tooseevee

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Reply #6 on: August 23, 2019, 06:04:46 PM
Eastwood hasn't been any help so far, so I picked up a can of VHT Gloss Clear, since the VHT formula has held up nicely on the Electra.
The plan is to do some tests with the VHT as a base and top it off with Rustoleum Clear Hammered. If that goes well, then a couple top coats of the VHT again.

A patch done with only Rustoleum products seemed to work well, and I'm hoping for a good compatibility with the VHT. The owner likes the hammered look, but if it doesn't work out he'll be just as happy with the clean look of the clear gloss.

              I misunderstood you. I thought you wanted something to prevent rust on bare metal if you weren't going spray it for a while.

               Here are just two aerosol 2-pack cans that Eastwood has:

           https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospraytm-high-gloss-matte-clear.html

                Back when I last used an Eastwoods clearcoat it was called Diamond Coat IIRC. It was excellent and HARD after it cured. It remained perfect for many many years.

               They also have excellent epoxy (and other formula) primers. And whoever makes their spray tips is a genius.
'08 Black AVL Classic.ACEhead 9.8:1/manifold/canister. TM32.Small open bottle/hot tube removed.Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed.Gr.TCI.Bobber seat.Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed.'30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


tooseevee

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Reply #7 on: August 23, 2019, 09:29:12 PM
           

                Back when I last used an Eastwoods clearcoat it was called Diamond Coat IIRC. It was excellent and HARD after it cured. It remained perfect for many many years.

             
   
          https://www.eastwood.com/ew-diamond-clear-gloss-for-bare-metal-quart.html

              Comes in aerosol cans also.
'08 Black AVL Classic.ACEhead 9.8:1/manifold/canister. TM32.Small open bottle/hot tube removed.Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed.Gr.TCI.Bobber seat.Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed.'30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


heloego

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Reply #8 on: August 24, 2019, 01:42:09 PM
Thanks for the info, mate. I saw the clear primer in a matte and the gloss in a qt.

We're going for the Gloss, but I don't have the equipment I'd like yet for a proper application, so I did some test patches on some scrap with VHT Clear Gloss and the Rustoleum Clear Gloss Hammered in the rattle cans.
The paints are compatible, and I'm getting the look we want, but the hammered gloss comes in a can with a weird trigger setup. Takes some getting used to, but I'm seeing decent results.

I'm now figuring clear gloss as the base, two or three coats hammered gloss, then top coat of clear gloss.


'18 Bonneville T-100, Blue/White
'12 C5 Classic
'06 Electra X AVL w/32mm Mikuni and Gold Star system.


tooseevee

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Reply #9 on: August 24, 2019, 02:56:18 PM
Thanks for the info, mate. I saw the clear primer in a matte and the gloss in a qt.

We're going for the Gloss, but I don't have the equipment I'd like yet for a proper application, so I did some test patches on some scrap with VHT Clear Gloss and the Rustoleum Clear Gloss Hammered in the rattle cans.
The paints are compatible, and I'm getting the look we want, but the hammered gloss comes in a can with a weird trigger setup. Takes some getting used to, but I'm seeing decent results.

I'm now figuring clear gloss as the base, two or three coats hammered gloss, then top coat of clear gloss.

             Sounds good. I like the bare metal look if it's done well. Your homework is good and I'm sure it come out well.

             I've recently ordered a can of Eastwoods High Temp Black Satin Header paint. I'm a little tired of the look of the black wrap on the '08's header pipe that has been on for years and looking a little ratty. I could respray it black, but that just doesn't do it for me.

             I'll prep the pipe and muffler (muffler is already satin black) and do them both with the same paint. Have to do it while we still have 80 degree days.
'08 Black AVL Classic.ACEhead 9.8:1/manifold/canister. TM32.Small open bottle/hot tube removed.Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed.Gr.TCI.Bobber seat.Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed.'30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.