Author Topic: Adjustable Pushrods  (Read 800 times)

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Bmadd34

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on: July 15, 2019, 01:54:04 pm
I have done scoured the forum's search feature and googled to my heart's content, but cannot find a viable avenue for parts. Are there solid lifters and adjustable pushrods available for the UCE engine?
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Jako

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Reply #1 on: July 15, 2019, 04:29:41 pm
Talk to gashousegorilla, he converts the hydraulic lifter to solid by fitting a aluminium plug into  the stock lifter body. He also has access to adjustable push rods to suit.
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ace.cafe

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Reply #2 on: July 15, 2019, 08:09:27 pm
As mentioned, the stock hydraulics can be converted to solids, and various racing pushrods companies could make pushrods for you of correct length.

I would wonder what is wrong with the factory hydraulics?  We are getting 6500 rpm and about 38 rwhp with them as long as you have good valve springs.


Bmadd34

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Reply #3 on: July 16, 2019, 12:46:29 am
As mentioned, the stock hydraulics can be converted to solids, and various racing pushrods companies could make pushrods for you of correct length.

I would wonder what is wrong with the factory hydraulics?  We are getting 6500 rpm and about 38 rwhp with them as long as you have good valve springs.

    Nothing is wrong with them per se, it is more about quitting the valve train. Throughout the rpm range, the hydraulic lifters allow for more noise at various pressures. A sild adjustable system would provide a quieter ride, with the option to adjust accordingly when needed.
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Dalmatian man

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Reply #4 on: July 16, 2019, 05:20:41 am
Why fix what is not broke, on a new engine as well.
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Reply #5 on: July 16, 2019, 09:23:50 am
Solid lifters are good for making excuses, " Sorry cant do that I have to adjust my lifters"
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ace.cafe

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Reply #6 on: July 16, 2019, 03:03:11 pm
    Nothing is wrong with them per se, it is more about quitting the valve train. Throughout the rpm range, the hydraulic lifters allow for more noise at various pressures. A sild adjustable system would provide a quieter ride, with the option to adjust accordingly when needed.
Your understanding is backwards. Hydraulics are quiet because they have no lash gap, and solids are inherently noisy because they must have a lash gap.

There have been many reports of some "clicking" noises on the UCE engines, but it is not down to the hydraulic lifters. I have never isolated the actual source of whatever top-end noises have been complained about in the stock UCE engines, but I suspect that some of these engines are assembled by the factory with insufficient lifter preload to handle the amount of vertical expansion that these engines have, so they clack when warm.

While our Ace UCE engines use a different rocker system, we use the standard factory hydraulic lifters and it has a silent valve train. The lifters are not the source of noise in these engines. Something else causes the noise.


Bilgemaster

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Reply #7 on: July 16, 2019, 07:49:48 pm
Why fix what is not broke, on a new engine as well.

Just out of curiosity, did they also give you your old engine back to tinker with? 'Cause like Dalmatian Guy, tearing experimentally into a my sole and brand new motor wouldn't be my first impulse either...and most certainly not during prime riding season. But then, I'm quite sure your mechanical and engineering chops are more up to whatever you're up to than mine would be.
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Bmadd34

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Reply #8 on: July 16, 2019, 08:53:10 pm
Just out of curiosity, did they also give you your old engine back to tinker with? 'Cause like Dalmatian Guy, tearing experimentally into a my sole and brand new motor wouldn't be my first impulse either...and most certainly not during prime riding season. But then, I'm quite sure your mechanical and engineering chops are more up to whatever you're up to than mine would be.
    Unfortunately, they would not allow me to keep the old engine. They wanted to tear into it themselves.
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GSS

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Reply #9 on: July 17, 2019, 09:20:12 pm
GHG has really nice push rods. Send him a PM.
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Bmadd34

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Reply #10 on: July 17, 2019, 10:34:46 pm
GHG has really nice push rods. Send him a PM.

    I did, but he hasn't been on.
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #11 on: July 19, 2019, 08:11:57 pm
    I did, but he hasn't been on.

  Sorry.  For some reason, I don't get email alerts anymore when someone PM's me ?  But you can get me at my email address under my profile anytime.    Happy to help and give an honest opinion.  ;)  And I have been a bit busy these last couple/few weeks , what with going over the handlebars on the highway,  getting some rest , subsequently fixing the bike and helping other guys out with their bikes.  ;D   I'm fine , don't ask.   Just a little scraped up and some sore ribs.   I  had forgotten how hard handle bars and  black top can be !?   :o ;D

 PM sent Brad.     And as far as I know ?  I'm the only one who has uses solids, around here anyway .   And yeah.. I can get adjustable rods easy, in different lengths , for different cams  , or for solids or hydraulics.  Oiled or not oiled and etc. 

  As far as noise goes on these bikes with Solid's vs  Hydraulics, in my personal hands on experience with tuning and working on them for the past 8 or 10 years now ?     Solids an Hydraulics sound about the same.   Maybe actually slightly quieter with the solids , vs the Hydraulic's  .  You can judge for yourself though.  Check out Singh 5's channel on YouTube and you can listen to my bike running with solids yourself.  The valve train and top end noise comes from a lot of sources... one being the brass bush pressed inside the stock cams can be a bit out of round . FROM the factory.  And that adjustable eccentric  cam spindle ?    ::)    The  massively heavy stock rocker's coming down on the valve  tip and etc and etc.   Take a look see at the stamped steal rockers used with Hydraulics on a Chevy 350 small block  for instance and compare it to the pile driver rockers in our motors  !  ;D

   Anyway.... in my opinion.     Solids are always better for performance then Hydraulics.  EVEN if you are NOT reving it to the moon.   You will get better and more consistent valve timing with solids then you will with Hydraulic's.  Valve timing can vary a bit with Hydraulics , depending  oil viscosity, oil temp and oil aeration  and when that lifter actually locks going up that ramp.  I don't think we would have gotten 36  and 38 Horse power and ft pounds of uncorrected torque AT THE wheel , at around 5700-5800 rpm's by using Hydraulics on that 500 cc motor.  ;)   BTW, the 500's  Have a heavier crank then the GT.   So personally, I would not rev the 500's much past 6200 rpm's without some bottom end lightening and some work.     BUT.. solids DO take a little bit more to set up and you have to check and adjust your lash...  Obviously.  But better if you are trying to squeak every last bit out of that motor that you can, type of thing.    The Hydraulics are not that bad in these bike I have found, I have done well with them.  And you can keep them under control with better springs... or even just shimming the stock springs for that matter.     BTW, I HAVE had one of these motors up to 6700 rpms with shimmed stock springs and Hydraulics .... and a little PC-V cheating .  So the Hydraulics  are pretty good.



GHG has really nice push rods. Send him a PM.


 Thanks GSS.  Just not from that ONE supplier out there !   Geez...  ;) 

   
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Bmadd34

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Reply #12 on: July 19, 2019, 08:26:49 pm
Reply sent GHG. Thanks for your input.
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mattsz

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Reply #13 on: July 20, 2019, 06:34:02 am
Not relevant to the subject at hand, but:

  Sorry.  For some reason, I don't get email alerts anymore when someone PM's me ?

Me too...

https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,27337.msg313328.html#msg313328


tooseevee

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Reply #14 on: July 20, 2019, 09:24:37 am
Not relevant to the subject at hand, but:

Me too...

https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,27337.msg313328.html#msg313328

             Me also? Looong time me not notified.
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