Author Topic: Rear chain adjustment on 2018 Classic  (Read 2295 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

mike_bike_kite

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 129
  • Karma: 0
on: July 04, 2019, 02:54:02 pm
There seem to be a million videos on youtube showing how to do this but most are in Indian. There also seem to be a million different set ups for various Royal Enfields - some with disk and some with drum, some with a cam thing and some with bolts on the swing arm, some with a cotter pin and some without. It soon gets pretty frustrating trying to figure things out. Mine is a 2018 Classic with two nuts and no cotter pin and with little 12mm nuts on the end of the swing arm. I think I now understand how it's all done and I thought I had all the right tools but my problem is how do you fit a socket onto each of the two nuts that hold the axle in place without damaging the exhaust. Is there some special technique? Are there any torque values I should be using?
2018 C5 Pegasus + NC750X + Vespa GT + Vespa GTS


tooseevee

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 4,576
  • Karma: 1
  • Everybody's havin' them dreams
Reply #1 on: July 04, 2019, 04:15:08 pm
Mine is a 2018 Classic with two nuts and no cotter pin and with little 12mm nuts on the end of the swing arm. I think I now understand how it's all done and I thought I had all the right tools but my problem is how do you fit a socket onto each of the two nuts that hold the axle in place without damaging the exhaust. Is there some special technique? Are there any torque values I should be using?

        It's tough because I can't see what you're seeing (+ I don't have a UCE), but I would say that if you can't fit a socket and socket handle in there then you have to use an open end.

          I found that on my AVL I can remove (and retighten) the axle nut without having to put a wrench on the head of the bolt. But every bike is different. (Wow. What an understatement!).

            As far as torque goes I don't know a number, but I have a pretty good feel for "nice and tight". I step on it with one foot, but not my full weight.

           
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


Dalmatian man

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 105
  • Karma: 0
Reply #2 on: July 04, 2019, 04:30:29 pm
It's  a easy task to remove the silencer, then you have easy access to all the fasteners.
33cc cyclemaster
James Cadet
James Comodore
Honda C50
Suzuki Gn250
BMW 650
Honda Hornet 600
BMW R1100RS
Royal Enfield C5 2014
BMW G310R


mike_bike_kite

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 129
  • Karma: 0
Reply #3 on: July 04, 2019, 06:28:11 pm
An open end spanner would work but I unfortunately I'd have to buy one for the 30mm under nut and of course I can't measure the torque setting (if I knew it).

I used to be a nightmare removing the exhaust on my Vespa and it sadly needed doing regularly. I guess I'll have to man up and see how easily it comes off. If it's straightforward then I'll do it this way. Would I be kidding myself asking for torque settings on the exhaust?

The bikes in for a service in about 500 miles so I could just leave it to them but ...
2018 C5 Pegasus + NC750X + Vespa GT + Vespa GTS


Dalmatian man

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 105
  • Karma: 0
Reply #4 on: July 04, 2019, 10:12:24 pm
I used to be a nightmare removing the exhaust on my Vespa and it sadly needed doing regularly. I guess I'll have to man up and see how easily it comes off. If it's straightforward then I'll do it this way. Would I be kidding myself asking for torque settings on the exhausit

Silencer comes off very easily, not sure if there are any torque settings for it, but every thing is steel so nothing you can damage.
33cc cyclemaster
James Cadet
James Comodore
Honda C50
Suzuki Gn250
BMW 650
Honda Hornet 600
BMW R1100RS
Royal Enfield C5 2014
BMW G310R


Haggis

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 787
  • Karma: 1
Reply #5 on: July 05, 2019, 11:50:46 am
Bike on the sidestand, lean over the bike to compress the suspension a little and the spindle will be above the exhaust. Or get a helper to squash the back down while you attend to the nuts.
Off route, recalculate?


gizzo

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,053
  • Karma: 0
  • purple people
Reply #6 on: July 05, 2019, 12:58:46 pm
12" shifting spanner should get it done.
simon from south Australia
Continental GT
Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


Bmadd34

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 685
  • Karma: 0
Reply #7 on: July 05, 2019, 07:50:59 pm
An open end spanner would work but I unfortunately I'd have to buy one for the 30mm under nut and of course I can't measure the torque setting.

    Here is the answer to your problems https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-9730-2-Inch-Crowfoot-8-Piece/dp/B000I1O6FG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=35UKR0ZDEZZ6B&keywords=30mm+crowfoot&qid=1562352143&s=automotive&sprefix=30mm+crow+foot%2Cautomotive%2C949&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1. All you need is a cheap Crowfoot set (Or if you want to be technical, "Offset open ended torque wrench adapters". That's a mouth full. I'll stick with crowfoot, lol). Simply attach to the end of your torque wrench at a 90 degree angle, not straight, you want it to be sticking straight out to one side or else you will be torqueing WAY too much as it will add to the distance, thus multiplying the torque. I've used these a bunch of times over the years; no where near as often as standard combination wrenches (Spanners) of course, but they have saved my hide more than once.
When Life hands you lemons, Squeeze them in his eyes and take his wallet.


mike_bike_kite

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 129
  • Karma: 0
Reply #8 on: July 05, 2019, 08:58:05 pm
Silencer comes off very easily, not sure if there are any torque settings for it, but every thing is steel so nothing you can damage.
I'm wondering if just removing the protective cover on the exhaust will give me enough room? If I do remove the exhaust do I remove it all the way from the engine or does it come apart in two bits and I just remove the lower bit?

Bike on the sidestand, lean over the bike to compress the suspension a little and the spindle will be above the exhaust. Or get a helper to squash the back down while you attend to the nuts.
Interesting approach - I tried this but I'm guessing I need to put on a bit more weight (or loosen of the suspension) as it didn't compress the wheel down enough to give me any real clearance.

    Here is the answer to your problems https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-9730-2-Inch-Crowfoot-8-Piece/dp/B000I1O6FG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=35UKR0ZDEZZ6B&keywords=30mm+crowfoot&qid=1562352143&s=automotive&sprefix=30mm+crow+foot%2Cautomotive%2C949&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1. All you need is a cheap Crowfoot set (Or if you want to be technical, "Offset open ended torque wrench adapters". That's a mouth full. I'll stick with crowfoot, lol). Simply attach to the end of your torque wrench at a 90 degree angle, not straight, you want it to be sticking straight out to one side or else you will be torqueing WAY too much as it will add to the distance, thus multiplying the torque. I've used these a bunch of times over the years; no where near as often as standard combination wrenches (Spanners) of course, but they have saved my hide more than once.
Never seen these before. As you say it must upset the torque calculation. Saying that though, I have no idea what any of the torque values should be so it probably doesn't matter anyway. There really is a crying need for a wiki page on this site showing how to do simple stuff like this though. These bikes are quite popular these days and you'd think the web would be full of info but on youtube it's all in Hindi or it's for some different variant of the bullet which has no relevance to my classic.
2018 C5 Pegasus + NC750X + Vespa GT + Vespa GTS