Author Topic: Gearbox separation  (Read 787 times)

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mattjohnson207

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on: May 30, 2019, 03:24:38 AM
Got engine and gearbox assembly out....manual says remove 4. 3/8 " nuts and remove gearbox. 
      It wont.  Moves about 1/8",  no further
      Duh...supposed to remove gearshift shaft....success.  Now after 5 years,  let the upgrade to speed and reliabiliy begin!   With "S" cams!  Bearings, and renewed crank & rod & piston!!!
   This could take a while
« Last Edit: May 30, 2019, 06:45:01 AM by mattjohnson207 »


mattjohnson207

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Reply #1 on: May 30, 2019, 06:33:14 AM
Success....i was supposed to remove gearbox cover and withdraw the shifter rod...


Adrian II

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Reply #2 on: June 01, 2019, 11:07:01 PM
I remember Bullet Whisperer posting that he got his best results on the Electra-X with a 36mm Amal Mk2 carb and the "S" cams. This size of Mk2 Amal concentric is currently unavailable new unless some dealers in the US still have stocks. Mikuni VM36s and TM36-38s as well as Dell'Orto PHF36s ARE still available, though!

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


mattjohnson207

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Reply #3 on: June 05, 2019, 10:59:00 PM
thanks Adrian...looking through Ringoism,s post page one..about turning down IB guides to match the AVL barrels, with an alloy coller  march 2018...My  tappet guide snapped at the narrowed pushrod holder due to some mechanic putting it on a dyno when new.   didn't notice til years later.   replaced it with a new avl tappet guide.  now that the cases are apart...I have a pair of IB tappet guides and tappets
     but have no experience as a machinist.   I live in a retirement community, and they have a metal shop with a lathe .  And I was wondering how to attach the alloy coller.
      wont be able to do this til fall.  as all the locals here are snowbirds and have gone back to Canada or where ever.  shops closed til October.
       found a little bit of hard metal shavings on splitting the cases this week...  so I have plenty of work to do this winter.
        So is this something a newbie can learn easily..or best left to a master machinist?


mattjohnson207

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Reply #4 on: June 05, 2019, 11:09:44 PM
having a little challenge loading pics


Adrian II

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Reply #5 on: June 06, 2019, 03:19:26 PM
I think the alloy collars are on an engine of mine that Bullet Whisper has been working on. In this case it was a set of Redditch Bullet bronze tappet guides he turned down to match the O/D of the AVL guides, with the alloy collars which he turned up so as to set then at the correct height.

"S" cams, like the Indian iron barrel Bullet cams, have a smaller base circle than the AVL cams, so you might have problems with the pushrods now being too short and running out of adjustment. There are solutions, but more on this in a while!

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


mattjohnson207

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Reply #6 on: June 07, 2019, 07:32:45 AM
Thanks Adrian.  I won't have access  to a lathe until November  so I'll  have plenty of time for research.
        Also interested in addressing the  bearing oil starvation problem in slow traffic.  The tourist traffic in Maine in the summer will fry even the best built air cooled bikes.  And I like to do slow trail riding in the mountains.
    ...Have a NOS 350  set of cases...I'll take a look to see how the old ci breathing was done.    I've already drilled and installed the old style breather to the case...but cant figure out how to get my Samsung to post a pic
         
« Last Edit: June 07, 2019, 07:40:36 AM by mattjohnson207 »


Adrian II

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Reply #7 on: June 07, 2019, 01:13:25 PM
The big-end sprays oil into the crankcases, from where the crankshaft main bearings have oil drillings in the cast alloy bearing bosses, note the countersunk hole between the backs of the cam spindles. This is a set of damaged cases, motocross has taken its toll!



As for your picture posting problem, are you trying to post them as attachments or using a photo-hosting web site?

A.
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mattjohnson207

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Reply #8 on: June 18, 2019, 12:26:08 AM
Ran into a snag.. while unloading my K75-s  from a harbor freight trailer,  I fell.  Necessitating rotator cuff surgery. I always knew that BMW was too  #*%# tall.  Just out of hospital four days now.
        Anyone been through this?  How long until I can ride my iron barrel (Have a spare to ride while I take my time on the AVL)  Doc says 8 weeks rehab.  I'm sure for safety's sake it's longer.  Also, wrenching.  And lifting the engine into the frame..probably a year?
    any way, thanks for your help Adrian... I have plenty of time to do this job right now.


Adrian II

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Reply #9 on: June 18, 2019, 12:05:52 PM
Get well soon, don't risk setting your recovery back!

A.
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ringoism

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Reply #10 on: September 14, 2019, 05:18:57 PM
thanks Adrian...looking through Ringoism,s post page one..about turning down IB guides to match the AVL barrels, with an alloy coller  march 2018...My  tappet guide snapped at the narrowed pushrod holder due to some mechanic putting it on a dyno when new.   didn't notice til years later.   replaced it with a new avl tappet guide.  now that the cases are apart...I have a pair of IB tappet guides and tappets
     but have no experience as a machinist.   I live in a retirement community, and they have a metal shop with a lathe .  And I was wondering how to attach the alloy coller.
      wont be able to do this til fall.  as all the locals here are snowbirds and have gone back to Canada or where ever.  shops closed til October.
       found a little bit of hard metal shavings on splitting the cases this week...  so I have plenty of work to do this winter.
        So is this something a newbie can learn easily..or best left to a master machinist?

Since October ('19???) was in view: 

You don't need the alloy collar, I installed mine without any.  Just turn down the OD of the IB guide to the same as that of the AVL guide, BUT do NOT machine the OD all the way to the original flange, cut it laterally only as far as it needs to go so as to produce the same installed height as the original.  The difference in original IB guide OD and newly cut AVL diameter naturally creates a "step" that is enough "bottom" the guide firmly when pressed into the case.  Not sure I have a photo of this... if I find one will post it.  Honestly if the guide was installed a millimeter higher or lower in the case it probably would make no difference whatsoever.  I don't see anything critical about this, there's a fair amount of leeway.  I think it's the AVL intake guide that's actually a lot shorter than it needs to be - meaning a lot of space between the bottom of it and the tappet foot / cam lobe.  I wondered sometimes if this was part of the problem with the feet snapping off - just too much tappet stem too far away from any kind of support.

Anyway, you don't need to be a master machinist, but the press-fit should be right, meaning you should be able to hold a half a thousandth tolerance, anyway.  In my case I was working on a really crappy, oversized lathe and the press-fit ended up a bit light... so used loctite sleeve retainer and also drilled/tapped horizontally into the timing-case casting to add a couple bolts to lock the guides in place... just extra insurance. 

Maybe I've been in India too long - but the bike seems to be running just great. 

No bike model would have survived in India for seventy-odd years if it were not at least minimally tolerant of hack-jobs...

-Eric


Adrian II

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Reply #11 on: September 14, 2019, 08:00:01 PM
Sounds like you have it sorted, gotta give tooseevee some company and keep those Electra-X and AVL Classics running.  ;)

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...