Author Topic: 07 Deluxe fix-up project, ongoing questions inside  (Read 1898 times)

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ddavidv

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Reply #75 on: June 08, 2019, 08:20:18 pm
Today with a fresh perspective (after spending the morning at a massive local car show) I figured out the throttle cable was the problem. It is routed along the spine of the frame and I had zip tied it (loosely) along with the harness. Well with the gas tank installed it apparently was pinching it to some extent. I removed one of the zip ties which seemed to free it up.

I tried to start it but no dice. So I pulled the enrichening knob and it fired off...and idled properly.

Well that was easy. So on on to the primary case. Took apart everything I had put together again (clutch, alternator, chain). The inner case cover was pretty stuck on but nothing the good old plastic dead blow hammer couldn't solve. I get the thing apart and don't see a crack. What I also don't see is half the gasket for the inner cover. There's SOME there but none where the leak was occurring. Another PO/bad mechanic fail!
While I was in there I removed the sprag clutch and gears for the electric start. Having the sprag clutch in my hand and understanding how it works I can see why everyone told me to remove it. It's like a baby grenade full of shrapnel just waiting to go off.
I'm still in the process of putting it all back together but hope tomorrow to take it on it's first actual ride.
2007 five speed 'Deluxe'


Bilgemaster

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Reply #76 on: June 08, 2019, 09:08:48 pm
Excellent! We're rooting fer ya!
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ddavidv

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Reply #77 on: June 09, 2019, 03:39:32 pm
Success!
Had it out twice today. First challenge was it wouldn't start. Troubleshooting revealed it wasn't getting gas to the carb. Uh-oh. My paranoia about the tank liner began to bubble. Removed the tank, pulled the petcock...nope, not clogged. Huh. Put it back on, no fuel with the tank mounted. I tried reserve. Fired right up.
 ::)
Pro tip:  make sure you have enough gas in the tank to feed the non-reserve portion.

Rode it for several miles. Several observations:
The brakes are horrible.
My Emgo muffler is TOO LOUD.
Upshift like you mean it.
Downshift with just a feather touch or you'll get a false neutral.
Downshifting with a false neutral and no engine braking will really illustrate just how rubbish the brakes are.
Vibrations--a feature to let you know it is still running.
Turn signals don't work. Again.
It's weeping a bit of ATF. Not sure if primary cover seal or if it's coming from the shifter.
My pegs are set at two different heights, which sucks.
What the hell is this kick starter doing where my heel should be?
Why is there a 5th gear? 4th is terrifying enough.
Kill switch doesn't kill.
Ride is pretty stiff, particularly the rear. Is the preload adjustable? (I forgot to look)
The duckbill...is it really shitting that much oil onto my chain? I have black specks all over the left side of the wheel.
The barrel doesn't leak. I find this astounding.
What a horrible motorcycle by today's standards. What fun it is to ride though!

Went to the gas station to put gas in it. Number of people who asked about it in the span of pumping two gallons:  2.
2007 five speed 'Deluxe'


Seipgam

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Reply #78 on: June 09, 2019, 07:47:28 pm
The duckbill...is it really shitting that much oil onto my chain? I have black specks all over the left side of the wheel.

This should subside after you ride it a bit. 
Make sure when you leave the bike overnight or longer to leave the engine at TDC, if not the some oil will make it's way to the crank case.  Most of this oil will be picked up by the scavenge pump but some will spat out through the duckbill.
To leave it at on near TDC, kick it until compression, decompress it then move the kicker back a small amount (about 5 min. if it were a clock hand) and this should be pretty close.
This is about right for mine so I presume it will be the same for most.

Geoff.

1954 Francis Barnett, Kestrel 66 122cc
1984 Yamaha SRX250
1995 Royal Enfield Bullet 500


Bilgemaster

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Reply #79 on: June 10, 2019, 09:51:38 am
I expect that a lot of the shortcomings you describe, such as lousy braking, sloppy shifting, and so forth may markedly improve after you've put a few hundred miles on her and blown out some of the cobwebs. A quick readjustment of the clutch and brakes might also be in order then.

Try running some nice fresh straight GL4 (NOT GL5!) 90 weight gear lube, which you can often find in the boating section of stores. If it looks halfway decent, whatever you drain out can be filtered with a coffee filter or similar and used to lube the drive chain really well. I just slop on a wee bit after each ride along the easy-to-reach lower run of the chain with an old chip brush, and in the 6,000 miles I've put on her, I've only had to take up those snaily wheel adjusters one notch.

In general, the more you ride, the more limber and sweeter she'll get. Her quirks will become 2nd nature to you, even somehow endearing, as you build up a special sort of "muscle memory" to her. It's a lot more "equestrian" an experience than piloting some soulless UJM.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2019, 12:52:05 pm by Bilgemaster »
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India.


ddavidv

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Reply #80 on: June 10, 2019, 07:12:30 pm
OMG...as if I haven't fixed enough PO bodges...

Thanks for the above comments. I tried to start making 'adjustments' tonight on some of the irritations. First the foot pegs. No matter how I try they won't get equal side to side. Something must be bent.



It's possible I installed these opposite of what they were originally as there is no way to explain the right side being bent forward. Not a crisis, just annoying.

But on to the subject of the front brake. I've ridden several other old motorcycles not known for great brakes. I rode a Benelli once that had a fabulous rear brake which was great, because the front one was near useless. This seemed worse to me. At a  minimum I wanted to lessen the travel of the hand lever as it got too close to the grip to suit me. Despite having spent a lot of time tinkering with it before I started down the path of loosening nuts and threading rods, spinning the front wheel and being ever more perplexed by how it didn't seem to work right. And finally, eureka!



I took the adjustment linking rod (15) completely off. Then I found out the bottom pivot (7) moves very little before the shoe hits the drum. The upper lever (8) needs to travel probably close to an inch before I feel contact inside the hub. Well that can't be right...that means I'm only using half my brakes. No wonder this thing won't stop! In the illustration it appears the upper lever is serrated; should this be removed and rotated to make up the difference? Do I just undo the visible nut? A cursory tug on that nut applies the brakes and didn't feel like it was keen to let loose.

But the real joy is that the little trunion (17) has no threads. Totally hogged out. Which explains why the upper cam always wants to stick--despite the fact it isn't actually doing anything inside the drum.

 ::)
2007 five speed 'Deluxe'


Arizoni

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Reply #81 on: June 10, 2019, 08:13:00 pm
You might want to use the forums "Search" feature.
Put in, adjusting front brake into the subject box.  Then, select the "Choose a board to search in" and click on "Bullet Iron Barrel" then poke the search button.

There are hundreds of posts about adjusting and setting up the dual cam brakes and I'm sure you will find some posts that will tell you exactly how to fix yours.

Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


Bilgemaster

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Reply #82 on: June 10, 2019, 11:23:34 pm
[...Snip!]

Thanks for the above comments. I tried to start making 'adjustments' tonight on some of the irritations. First the foot pegs. No matter how I try they won't get equal side to side. Something must be bent.



It's possible I installed these opposite of what they were originally as there is no way to explain the right side being bent forward. Not a crisis, just annoying.

[Snip!...]

It looks to me like you did swap the footrests and/or supports, and what is more, that the one currently on the right, missing the tip of its rubber boot, was very likely bent during a drop while it was still on the left, judging by the angle. The drop's probably what tore off the tip of the rubber. Some mapgas or propane torch heat, a vise and a little persuasion with a stout pipe (say a two or three foot length of iron gas pipe or steel fencing post or similar) with maybe a few tender blows with a big ass hammer might get her back into proper shape. If it snaps, well eBay is your friend. For example, here's a pair of nice used supports off a 2004 that'll do the trick for about $20 delivered to your door.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2019, 11:44:08 pm by Bilgemaster »
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India.


Adrian II

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Reply #83 on: June 11, 2019, 06:13:33 am
Wrong item, B.M.!

They're the passenger/pillion footrest mounts in that ebay listing, not the rider's foot rests.

A.
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Adrian II

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Bilgemaster

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mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #86 on: June 11, 2019, 06:09:59 pm
The foot pegs mount to a hex shaft, I believe.  If you rotate the foot peg one face (60 degrees) you should be able to find a location where the foot pegs are perpendicular to the bike and fold up and back at a 60 degree angle.  If that does not work, they are bent and map gas is in order.
« Last Edit: June 11, 2019, 06:12:49 pm by mrunderhill1975a »


ddavidv

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Reply #87 on: June 12, 2019, 08:23:20 pm
I didn't get to the pegs tonight. I continued working on the front brake. Greased the pivots, reset everything and test rode again. Brakes are still awful and--hooray--now they are sticking.  :P
The manual states the lever should be at a 90 degree angle to the cable. Mine certainly is not.

The cable where it attaches to the fork is adjusted nearly all the way downward. When I pull on the cable and apply the brake then release it the handle/cable does not return fully. If I push the hand lever outward it will rest fully retracted.
At this point I'm suspicious of the cable itself. It has an odd feel to it, like when I really tug on the brakes it almost feels like it stretches.

The other pisser is the shifter seal isn't leaking. It's actually leaking from behind the rear primary cover. Aaaargh! I just had that all apart! I'm sure it just started since the last repair as I disturbed the universe by removing it.

My Chinese air cleaner came today and I installed it. The bike doesn't seem to idle well as a result. Do I adjust the air/fuel mixture to compensate?
2007 five speed 'Deluxe'


Bilgemaster

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Reply #88 on: June 13, 2019, 12:19:10 am
Could it be you have the wrong length or type of cable on there? Maybe some PO's make-do replacement? Attached is a quick candid midnight in the mist shot of my 2005's front brake assembly. Aside from needing to lightly "skim" it dry when I first set off after a good downpour by very lightly holding the lever as she moves along for a few hundred feet just to warm up the shoes and drums a little so they aren't too "grabby", my front brake is tip-top, and its actuating arm is indeed perpendicular to the cable, as you say. Mine also seems to have some sort of wear indicator arrow doodad at the arm pivot yours lacks, but I shouldn't think that crucial or even relevant to your situation.

Hang in there, man! It's sounding like you're almost there!
« Last Edit: June 13, 2019, 01:32:26 am by Bilgemaster »
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India.


Davross45

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Reply #89 on: June 13, 2019, 02:37:07 am
I bought a 350 bullet with the same TLS front brake as yours in April
I'm no expert but I can see that brakes is miles out of adjustment
The shoes are not contacting the drum at the same time, that's why you are getting the spongy feeling.
I got an acceptable brake that actually compressors the front forks and almost hauls you up by
Stripping the shoes out, cleaning and lightly greasing the pivot points.
Then I adjusted the pivot arms so they were both parallel.
And the Shoes were contacting the drum with the bottom arm approaching 90 degrees
The top trunion on mine was drilled through with a small lock nut the bottom is a left hand thread.
Back the link bar off
Adjust the brake so the bottom shoe is just touching the drum (hear it)
Then get someone to apply the brake and adjust the link bar so the top shoe touches at the same time.
If the brake is still poor, strip again and dress the visible high spots on both shoes.
It sounds complicated but it's straight forward once everything is laid out.
It took about a week of on and off trial and error but my brake works now.