[tooseevee]

Yeah, so about the final drive oil...I've heard "Type F" but Snidal seems to think in a five speed model it should be 20W or 20W-50 if straight isn't available.

         Nope. You've confused transmission (final) with chain case (primary). No mention in Snidal of ATF in the transmission. The ATF recommendation is for the chain case (primary) not the tranny (final).

[ddavidv]

Dammit. I just know some day I'll wish I'd kept it. Guess I'm using some bar stock, LOL.

[ddavidv]

Remember this carb?
https://scontent.fagc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58463169_10157213206631055_9177211832891342848_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_eui2=AeH7nNmxZWCrg-A-V7e3Kx-8Lhlyrbw-o8jQmtQvCkfYBOADJ0MzqpAX4IdEDCXPHSheF0DbSX_MAb9DAYbT3lCZ0paZYJnUSG9CbfTp7QqGtw&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc1-1.fna&oh=f1e171ccebafef7496b8ab653357b647&oe=5D72FD1A

I removed the float bowl to clean/check it (was in great shape) and now can't get it back on. Asking on another generic bike site apparently these things can be real bastards. I've spent an hour over two nights trying to get it back together and the planets simply won't line up. Anyone know the secret?

And to add to the joy I found a pinhole in my vinegar fermenting gas tank today. 

Tiny upside:  I got a used chain guard off Ebay that went on easily and actually was in nice shape (black).

[ddavidv]

Four day weekend for me so lots of work in the garage.
I wired up rear turn signals and was going to add matching ones in the front but don't see any leads behind the headlamp for them. Are the little lights in the headlamp nacelle supposed to function as indicators? When I turn the switch L or R the proper light will illuminate.
No blinky though. Right turn the flasher unit emits a buzz and no lamp. Left turn the lamp stays on but no noise from the flasher. I stuck another flasher in I had laying around but it doesn't do anything and I don't even get a lamp to light so it may be a dud.

I bought acetone to try to melt what is left of the fuel tank liner out. There are only a couple of spots I can't get loose. Rest of the tank cleaned out pretty nicely.

Spent a lot of time adjusting the brakes. The one cam wasn't returning to rest and it took me quite awhile to figure out the adjustments between the hub and the cable itself. Finally seems to be working properly but the previous setup at the handle didn't have the adjustment knob and sleeve. The cable was attached to the handle and the cable sheath just sits in the end of the handle pivot. I'm questioning if the cable on it is the correct one as the end that fits into the handle seems too small.

I also bought this very nice seat from Hitchcock's but am puzzled by the front mounting. It is just a tab that points forward. Shouldn't there be something that holds it in the bracket on the frame? The only hardware it came with was the two mounting legs for the rear.

[Bilgemaster]

Speaking only to the rear drum brake issues, I'm led to understand that in many cases the actuating cam plate, which should be free-floating on that brake plate so as to evently distribute force to both shoes, may be factory-painted in place or too-tightly affixed and attached with immobile star washers in such a way as to hinder its desired side-to-side movement to level out its action. The result is poor single-shoe braking.

[ace.cafe]

The seat tongue just slides under the front frame bracket .

[ddavidv]

The seat tongue just slides under the front frame bracket .

Any concern with the harness running through there?

[ace.cafe]

It depends on the fit. If the seat pan prevents the tongue from touching the harness, it's ok. If not, adjust where needed.

[ddavidv]

Turn signals sorted. Apparently the system is very particular about the bulbs used. With a matching pair of 4w in the nacelle and a car flasher from my parts stash they work.

I went to put the headlamp back in and discovered the three leads to the lamp are all separate...and I didn't label where they went.  Anyone able to tell me which colors go where? I have amber, blue and green. The wiring diagrams I have are all vague about actual attachment points.

[Adrian II]

Look at the back of the headlamp reflector unit with the bulb in. The amber wire is the AC return, that fits on the left-hand tab of the H4 bulb, blue is main beam and fits on the right hand tab, and green is dipped beam which fits on the top tab.

A.

[ddavidv]

Thank you! 

I filled the fluids today except for the gas. Tank got the acetone treatment today. I'm letting it evaporate before sticking a lamp inside to see if I got the last of the liner out. Ordered a horn, muffler and air filter from Ebay and Amazon. One oddball bolt needed to install the seat. I have yet to:  bolt down and torque head, install rocker arms, install rocker covers, set valve/pushrod clearances, install oil lines, install exhaust, hook up decompressor, install battery and tidy up the wiring. If the fuel tank cleaned up  I can Red Kote it and let it dry for a few days and put that on.

At that point I should be ready to give it a few kicks!

[ddavidv]

Flummoxed. I know what a compression release does and understand in theory how it works. It was apart when I got the bike so I'm going by the parts diagram to put it together. It was rather a struggle as I waited until the head was on the engine to do it. But, here is what I have.


Per the parts diagram the sequence of assembled parts looks correct but it doesn't seem to do anything. If I move the control lever the cable housing just pops out of it. I stared at it for awhile and just can't grasp how it is supposed to function. I'm sure I don't have something right somewhere but can't figure out what.

[Bilgemaster]

Sounds to me like you might enjoy the probing and insightful short Art Film, "Decompressor Operation Thrills for Dirty Uncle Vanya".

Pro Tip: DO NOT EVEN TOUCH that split or cotter pin on the decompressor assembly while it's anywhere near  the head...unless, of course, you want  to spend a lazy afternoon trying to fish the decompression valve out of the cylinder bore with a magnet.

[mrunderhill1975a]

When you say "cable housing" do you mean the threaded ferrule shown in your photo or do you mean the lever on the handle bars?

The decompressor assembly has a slot where the ball of the cable resides. Is this cable ball secure in the slot in the decompressor assembly?  If ball is secure, then when the lever pulls on the cable, the sheath (Bowden tube) around the cable pushes on that threaded ferrule in your photo, which in turn pushes down on the spring and opens the decompressor valve.  If nothing happens in your case, either the ball on the end of the cable is not attached securely in the slot, the ball is deformed and slides through the slot, or the threaded ferrule has stripped threads and the ferrule is slipping through the top of the valve assembly.

[ddavidv]

It looks like the valve is together correctly. The cable operation is not working properly though.
I made a quick and dirty phone video showing my issues (click link; I don't know how to embed). https://youtu.be/EoXRDWDNwp0