[ddavidv]

Sunday I made a deal with someone desperate for cash on this somewhat cafe'd '07 Deluxe.

The seller got it from a relative who told him it "Only needs $80 worth of parts to run", mostly a valve seat and intake valve. Yeah, right! Totally unplanned I had a week off from work and was able to start right into fixing the four thousand things wrong with it. This being my first RE I wasn't sure how it would be to work on but it has been a delight. Everything is easy to access and it goes together logically. I've had a fun week thus far but have found so many things wrong with it I've lost count.

Aside from a bad head, bad piston, 'modified' electrics, a rear wheel that I don't think was aligned properly, rust in the fuel tank, missing parts etc it appears the primary chain is either way stretched or possibly the wrong one. Slack is ridiculous and if I lift the tensioner up the chain contacts the bracing on the inside of the case...where apparently someone once tried it and ground some of it away!

I mean, this can't be right, can it? I plan on ordering a new one along with the multitude of other things I need.

One other issue I have is the handlebar controls won't get tight on the bars. They 'spin' pretty easily with the screws fully seated. This makes the throttle unusable, among other things. Anyone have a fix?
ETA: I mean on the stock bars. Those idiotic cafe bars are already on the floor.

[mrunderhill1975a]

I believe the tech manual says 1/4 inch slack for the primary chain. Yours is way too much.  Perhaps someone installed a "high performance" clutch basket with too few teeth. 

All bullets have rear wheels that look like they are not aligned properly compared with fender.  They all look like they are off to one side.  When you get past the primary chain problem, you can worry about wheel alignment.

The bars may be slightly smaller diameter than stock for the controls.  In my case, I used a short wrap of thin corrugated/expanded metal from an old body putty shaping tool. The thin metal blade took up the extra space and the rough corrugations provided grip on the bar.  A wrap of metal window screen material could also help.

Check out this link to Classic Motorcycles:
https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/mc-how-to/replace-primary-chain-zmmz16jfzhur


Looks like fun. Good luck.

[ddavidv]

Nice find on that article. I get that magazine and have the archive but didn't realize they ever published that.
Just placed a slightly painful order with Hitchcock's.

[Adrian II]

Those dropped bars won't be good for use with stock footrests, perhaps a set of normal 7/8" handlebars from a British bike specialist would be kinder to your back.

All the stock Bullet controls are for 7/8" bars and should not need padding out unless they were a poor fit to start with. However the throttle assembly/switch cluster on the electric start models did have a locating pin matched to a hole in the right-side of the handlebar, if you have after-market bars the previous owner might not have taken this into account when fitting them. I cant remember if this was a short metal pin or a protrusion from the plastic molding, which the P.O. might have ground off in ignorance! I will check my old Electra-X throttle assembly if I can find it and let you know.

A.

[mrunderhill1975a]

https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/mc-how-to/replace-primary-chain-zmmz16jfzhur

One thing I would add to this replacement procedure is the clutch drum retaining Circlip.  Perhaps it is different on the E-start bikes but my kick-start bike has a large circlip holding the clutch drum to the inner hub.  When you pull on the drum with the puller, make certain there is no circlip holding it in place. 

One other thing, for reassembly, is to make certain of the position of the innermost  and outer-most clutch discs,  the innermost "reaches" toward the gearbox, the outer-most plate "reaches" away from the gearbox.

gearbox----}IlIlIl{---primary cover

Just be sure the plates go back in the same orientation as they came out.
I hope that makes sense.

[ddavidv]

Those drop bars are off and laying on the floor. Free to anyone who wants them. They were horrible!

[Bilgemaster]

Those drop bars are off and laying on the floor. Free to anyone who wants them. They were horrible!

Actually, I might be able to use them on my old Norton N15CS "Desert Sled" currently awaiting resurrection if I were to reorient them upwards. Are they like the old  "Z-Bars"? 'Cause the Norton had them when I first got it together. They broke at one of the welds when I came off once, and I sort of miss them. Could I see a picture?

Oh, and my 2005 Electric Start did have that big clutch retaining circlip mentioned by Mr. Underhill. It was very easy to pry out with a narrowish flathead screwdriver, and I didn't need a special puller to get off that clutch basket. It just wiggled off pleasantly enough along with the chain and that drive sprocket underneath the alternator rotor. The trickiest part was reassembly, and making sure the gap between the alternator rotor and stator was nice and even, which can be achieved by a little shimming of the stator mounts and/or a little light persuasion with a rubber mallet of the stator before final tightening of the stator mounting nuts. Hoohoohoblin has a superb YouTube video of the process. In fact, if you're new to wrenching on the Iron Bellied breed, I'd recommend binge-watching all his stuff.

[ddavidv]

More questions.
The bike came with no air filter of any kind. The 'box' and all the plumbing are gone and the tool box is filled with all manner of electrics moved from the frame for aesthetic purposes (which creates other problems I need to fix). Anyway, I am not in love with the original setup. Don't like the K&N look on something this antiquated. I'd like to use something like a 'pancake' filter often seen on Triumphs and the like. Any negatives to doing this?

I'm also trying to figure out a muffler as there is none. Not a fan of the giant salami it was built with. There is a 'shorty' muffler available (used) for around $100 I could get or the Gold Star type at around $125 new.

Testing the electrics and figuring out what severed wires go to what I found the turn signal power for the rear. The front trafficator lights function with the switch in that they come on but don't blink. Do the rear lights also have to be in place for the flash to function or do I have a problem with the relay/flasher?

There is no front brake light switch. Is this a common part from another bike like some of the switchgear (Suzuki)? I sort of know what it looks like.

Points look good and it generates a nice spark when kicked over but I'd like to carry a spare set. I've read that these are 'common Lucas' components but it would help to know what other bike application I can specify to order a set locally.

Running out of things to work on until my package from Hitchcock's arrives.

[ace.cafe]

I still make the Ace Air Canister on special order. Takes about a week. Has vintage look, proper airbox volume, correct length intake hose for ram effects, and comes with a low cost easy to replace filter element available from AutoZone. Can also accept a K&N E-3120. Bracket and connector hose included and all assembled for quick installation.

This was my most popular product for Iron Barrel 500 models.

Pic below.

[ddavidv]

That isn't what I had in mind but...looks kinda nifty!  Can you quote me here or in a PM?
Seems all of the filters I like are thread on to Amal carbs.
My carb bolts directly to the head but yours has a piece of hose connecting it?

[ace.cafe]

That isn't what I had in mind but...looks kinda nifty!  Can you quote me here or in a PM?
Seems all of the filters I like are thread on to Amal carbs.
My carb bolts directly to the head but yours has a piece of hose connecting it?

All Bullets have a hose connecting the carb mouth to the airbox.
All India made Bullets have a short hose connecting the carb(Mikarb 28mm) to a manifold stub on the head. That is the way all the Mikuni carbs attach.

Amal carbs have a flange that bolts to the head. This flange is extremely delicate, and overtightening it will warp the carb body permanently, causing unending problems. So, don't overtighten the carb flange bolts, and pray that the previous owner didn't overtighten them.

In any case, regarding my Ace Air Canister, it fits both the Mikarb and Amal carbs, and replaces the stock airbox and filter, and mounts to the original airbox mounting bolt.

The reason for using an airbox is that it has sufficient internal air volume so that the engine can fill the cylinder with air from inside the airbox without having to pull air thru the filter mesh. Then, the air can come thru the filter mesh during the next 3 strokes and be ready for the next intake stroke. This allows better throttle response and cylinder filling potential. The intent for this kit was to meet all the desired requirements for its purposes, and replace the poor OEM filter/airbox arrangement with a better one that keeps a vintage appearance.

The pod type filters that clamp/bolt on the carb mouth do not have sufficient internal volume for the purposes described above. They work, but are not ideal, which is why all factory engines use an airbox, and so do most aftermarket intake/filter systems that offer real performance benefits.

The kit is $89.95 plus shipping. I have sold hundreds of these over the last 10 years. If the Photo Gallery on this forum was still working, you would see many members bikes with these on them. The photo I posted was of another member's bike that put an Ace Air Canister on it, and posted a photo after he installed it on his bike. That photo is almost 10 years old now.

You can PM me if you want to order one.

[ddavidv]

The carb on mine bolts directly to the head. Not the correct carb?

[ace.cafe]

The carb on mine bolts directly to the head. Not the correct carb?

That appears to be a JRC carb. Probably 30mm.
Not as commonly seen as the factory Mikarb, aftermarket Mikuni, or aftermarket Amal.

They take a 30mm Chinese copy of a Keihin PWK carb, epoxy a flange for a Bullet on it. It was a fairly common carb upgrade sold here by the previous importer. The jets may not be identical to Keihin, and should be available on eBay.
Look on the carb body for a name like OKO or KOSO. You will want to get jets for whatever brand is on the carb body.

I can't remember if that fits my airbox connectors or not. I can fit 1.75" or 2.25" carb mouths, with a little leeway because the hose can stretch a bit.

Back in the way old days when the Bullets were built in England, an Amal was the factory carb.

[ddavidv]

The inlet measures 50mm if that helps.
No brand name on it but "30m" is stamped in it and "PWK" is cast in the housing on the other side.

[ace.cafe]

The inlet measures 50mm if that helps.
No brand name on it but "30m" is stamped in it and "PWK" is cast in the housing on the other side.

It is a pretty good carb upgrade for a stock bike. Not sure on how to guide you about jets to get.

My airbox connector hose probably wouldn't stretch from 45mm to 50mm,.and the 57mm hose would be too big.