[Guaire]

For the first time, I tried starting up today with fresh gas, new plug. No go. No cranking of the starter. Also, no light on the three lights on the speedo, bright, neutral and flashers. The rest of the lights and turn signals worked. The brake light works, but the tail light doesn't light, but I figure that's the bulb. Horn doesn't work. Fuses looked ok.
  The previous owner had just installed wide/long bars with longer cables. I figure the right hand switches might be roughed up. I'll have to venture into the casquet to check the wiring/bulbs in the speedo.
  It came with the pillion seat, but I removed it.
  The battery seems to have the posts on the wrong side, but it's in good shape and the lights are on.
  Avon tires.
  It has no mirrors. I had one left over from my GT, so there you are.
I'll be concentrating on the starter problem, then take it from there.

[hpwaco]

Really like that long megaphone!   Do you know what kind of is?  Kind of looks like an emgo.  Cheers,  hp

[9fingers]

Guaire, are you sure the battery is good? Is this the one you got from Bert Remington?
9fingers

[Guaire]

Guaire, are you sure the battery is good? Is this the one you got from Bert Remington?
9fingers

Bert Remington is in CA. This bike came from NC. It's the one he couldn't use. I'm in VA and picked up from NC.
The battery is good, AGM. I use a Noco charger.

[Guaire]

Really like that long megaphone!   Do you know what kind of is?  Kind of looks like an emgo.  Cheers,  hp

Hi HP - I'll check with the PO. I wish I could hear it!
  I'm going to replace the battery. It's the right size and power, but the Pos and Neg posts are on the wrong sides. The posts face toward bike center, instead of bike outside. See pic.
  I got the stock bars and cables with the bike. I'll switch back. While doing that I'll check the three dead bulbs and the switch pods for current. As in Singh5's video, I'll replace them and the tiger eyes with LEDs.
  Horn doesn't work. Starter doesn't run. I know the handle bar was replaced. I need to check if the switches got bothered in that install. I'll do that before anything else.
Cheers,
Bill

[Bert Remington]

Guaire -- I suggest a bit more preparation before trying to start the motor.

* change oil, oil filter, brake fluid, gasoline
* replace battery (which you are doing)
* remove, clean contacts, and install all fuses and relays
* conduct full electrical system test including fuel pump but not ignition coil and correct any problems before proceeding
* remove spark plug and crank the engine about 30 seconds
* using new spark plug, conduct ignition coil test and correct any problems before proceeding

The motor should now be ready to run.

Before riding any significant distance, replace tubes and tires for age (not wear) reasons.

To reduce any low voltage starting issues, replace both positive and negative starter wires with heavier gauge wires.

I believe the muffler was part of a performance kit sold by CMW.

[Mad4Bullets]

That battery's post locations look correct to me.  The posts are intended to slide into the battery compartment first.  They do not face outward.  The positive post is near the gas tank as shown and the negative is near the rear fender.  While you have everything opened up there, be sure to inspect the brass terminals that attach to the battery posts - especially the negative one.  They're notorious for breaking along their severe bend lines.  This can actually cause your symptoms until they break all together.  You may have a faulty ground.

[gashousegorilla]

  Yeah... that battery is installed the correct way.   If you turn it around you will find that when you put the cover on, the positive will be too close to the cover and it will short out.   That is how I found mine when it was new in 09'... sparking away at the cover . 

[Guaire]

That's good about the battery.
  The tail light had a bad filament. I've ordered a round of LEDs from super bright.
  I tested the starter with a direct connection to the battery. It cranked.
The horn circuit is weird. When I applied a 12v current to the horn terminal wires, the front headlight came on. Next time, I will set up the stock bars and check the handle bar switches.

[gashousegorilla]

 Yeah... that sounds about right if you put 12v across that horn directly.   You probably back fed it.   The horn is a ground switcher.  It should have 12v to it continuously  and when you hit the button it connects ground to positive inside the horn, which causes that racket.   With your key on, I'd check one of those posts on the horn for 12v  with a test light.   And the other one for continuity to ground with a multi meter when you hit the button.     There is an adjustment on the mounting post... a nut If I am remembering correctly ?.... that you can turn to get the sound coming out of the horn the right way.    As you hit the horn button, you tweak that adjust a little at a time to get the right pitch.

[GlennF]

Not sure if this is any use but here is a user created wiring diagram for the B5 .  Page 7 details the horn etc.

http://www.midlandbullets.co.uk/pdf%20files/Royal%20Enfield%20EFI%202011%20Wiring%20and%20Circuit%20Diagrams.pdf

[gashousegorilla]

For the first time, I tried starting up today with fresh gas, new plug. No go. No cranking of the starter.....
 
I'll be concentrating on the starter problem, then take it from there......

  The early bikes were notorious for having faulty starter solenoids.    Key on, kill switch set to run... put one hand on the solenoid, and hit the start button  with the other hand.  If you feel a click or a thump on that solenoid and  the starter doesn't kick in ?   You got a bad solenoid  OR  your battery is week.

[Guaire]

Not sure if this is any use but here is a user created wiring diagram for the B5 .  Page 7 details the horn etc.

http://www.midlandbullets.co.uk/pdf%20files/Royal%20Enfield%20EFI%202011%20Wiring%20and%20Circuit%20Diagrams.pdf

Awesome, Glenn! I'll have to print out that one. I do have a copy of the Haynes manual now. But the drawings you sent look like the best ever.
Cheers,
Bill

[Guaire]

  The early bikes were notorious for having faulty starter solenoids.    Key on, kill switch set to run... put one hand on the solenoid, and hit the start button  with the other hand.  If you feel a click or a thump on that solenoid and  the starter doesn't kick in ?   You got a bad solenoid  OR  your battery is week.

GHG - Is the starter solenoid at the end of the POS battery cable? (dumb question) I'll follow the lead out of the thing, and if it goes to the starter motor, then that's the starter solenoid!!! I'll follow the procedure.
  On the horn, does it have a trick internal circuit for flipping POS to ground? Can I use a common 12v horn? or do I have to buy the RE OEM?

  Looks like we've boiled it down to eliminating the problem to the side stand switch, the solenoid, or something creeping in the handle bar switching. Easy.

Thanks,
Bill

[gashousegorilla]

GHG - Is the starter solenoid at the end of the POS battery cable? (dumb question) I'll follow the lead out of the thing, and if it goes to the starter motor, then that's the starter solenoid!!! I'll follow the procedure.
  On the horn, does it have a trick internal circuit for flipping POS to ground? Can I use a common 12v horn? or do I have to buy the RE OEM?

  Looks like we've boiled it down to eliminating the problem to the side stand switch, the solenoid, or something creeping in the handle bar switching. Easy.

Thanks,
Bill

 Not dumb at all... It's a new bike to you.    The Starter solenoid is to the right  and above the battery, mounted on the frame.  Or you could say, below the left rear side of the seat.   The Horn is a regular 12v horn.   I would really give that adjustment thing a try first  before you buy one  tough.   Being just a little out of adjustment and the the horn wont make any sound.   Try putting a socket or a wrench on that post, and turn a little as you hit the horn button.     You might all of a sudden get a buzz... and then you turn and tweak it a little more and you jump back with your ears ringing .

  A starter solenoid... relay, which ever you prefer to call it, from a 70's Honda CB750 should do fine for you as a replacement.     There are aftermarket ones out there and are damn near a dime a dozen.

 I would also check the wire coming out of the neutral switch... left rear of the motor, behind the starter.... that wire can snap off easily from just moving stuff around back there and etc.    If it's broke , or the neutral switch is acting up ?.... make sure the bike is in neutral and pull in the clutch lever and hold it pulled in.. wait a second or two and hit the start button.   The clutch switch will by pass the neutral switch and let you start the bike.