Author Topic: How do you check piston to valve clearance on hydraulic lifter engine  (Read 898 times)

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gashousegorilla

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  Good deal and sweet bike Jako  ! 

 I'm thinking that PC-V Map you have for the Cams , may now be on the bit too rich side of things . Or at least in certain area's.  With your now higher compression ratio, you are burning more efficiently and wont need quite as much fuel...    a little less volume around TDC, valve maybe a little more shrouded and etc.

 Yeah, the contact patch where the rocker pad rides on the valve tip may have been or still off.  At full lift it may have been favoring one side or the other on the tip of the valve.  Riding off the edge of it even.  :-\      I would check that with your new valve job, or your guy may have already.  He may have had to grind the tip of the valves, or work on those rocker pads a bit.   I would also check the oil squirters on the rocker blocks and make sure they are clear.   There are two on each ... one pointing at the valve stem and the other at the push rod tip.   You can  take a can or crab cleaner or  WD 40 or Brake cleaner  or some such.... and with the straw attached, blow in from the bottom oil passage of the rocker , and make sure they are clear .   You can also see the spay pattern blowing out , to make sure it is directed to where it should be.   WATCH your eye's !   
« Last Edit: March 17, 2019, 02:17:09 pm by gashousegorilla »
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


Jako

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Got a short test ride in today, very impressed  so far , seems to still have good torque throughout the range even though its running the bigger diameter header pipe . Hitting the rev limiter in 4th with ease . Haven't had a chance to open it out in top gear yet but it feels like it wants to get up and go.  Fueling feels good everywhere except idle ,might need a little playing around there. Around town it still rides like a stock bike which is good . See supplied maps below, I was surprised to see so much fuel removed at the 100% throttle positions but it seems to really work well. Will be going on Dyno soon but the nearest dyno is a few hours from home.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2019, 11:14:37 pm by Jako »
B5 2013 ,Honda CT110 2011, Honda C90 cub,  C5 (wife's bike)


gashousegorilla

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 Yeah , interesting.  The  stock GT fueling is different then the Bullet, I'm sure.  But I see  similarity's  there when Cams are installed.   At 100% throttle up there in the top end, I usually find that fuel is added.. but not much more.   Cam profile and how your intake is flowing... and the how stock fueling is will play a roll.  A Vacuum gauge hooked up to the intake manifold would tell you though, at wide open throttle and at red line.    Down low at idle and start up, in the smaller throttle openings and RPM's... yeah , similar to the Bullet's.  You likely don't need as much fuel down  there  now with the bigger Cams.   That's effecting your idle a bit I think.  There is likely LESS  manifold vacuum now... particularly at lower RPM"s and at idle.  So less air flow down low ... less fuel.  For your idle,  I think you might need to pull a some fuel out between  500 and 1500 rpm's.  When they create a canned map, they generally don't tune that 0 throttle position at idle.   And depending on what your shooting for as far as air fuel ratio on a Dyno or with an auto tuner ?.... I would venture a guess ,  that a little more fuel would be taken out and it would  perform a little better with your higher compression ratio.  Anyway, I think it will be interesting to see after you get it on that Dyno.
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.