[chuntera]

Hi folks,
I am new to his forum and a new RE owner in USA northeast. The sum of my RE experience has been a few laps around the block while visiting in India.
I picked up a 2008 AVL last year. It had been stored outdoors and suffered from corrosion. Also the starter clutch had gone (surprise).
I've started down the list of tasks to bring it back online. It will have to pass safety inspection at my local DMV so fiddly bits like turn signals must function.
I picked up a copy of Pete Snidal's book and a factory service manual.

This unit originally came with front drum brake which was converted single disc with parts from a newer Bullet. The control lever and master cylinder appears to be typical chinese scooter variety. The fender/mudguard do not bolt to the new fork lowers. To resolve I ordered parts from Hitchcocks (not sure if that will be an option after Mar 29). They have a watson-squire fender bracket which should attach the original fender to the new fork lowers (after drilling a few new holes in the fender).

I derusted the gas tank and pulled apart the fuel petcock/tap (BSP threads) for cleanup & replace the sealing washers.
The exhaust cleaned up nicely and I'm halfway through the fenders. The rear fender fasteners were stripped & will be replaced with socket caps.

The turn signals are pretty crusty so I am replacing with a new set. The rear brake bulb is a common ground type lacking continuity to the frame, likely due to corrosion or a broken ground wire. Based on the rust patterns the brake light assembly collected rainwater (ie. not watertight).

I still need to clean out the ucal CV carburetor and add a filter to the fuel line.
Based on Pete Snidal's book, I should add a inline fuse the battery cable leading to the starter motor and also run a wire for the master cylinder brakelight switch.

After sitting in my garage for a few days I discovered a puddle of ATF fluid under the RH fork. So I added to my list is replacing the fork drain bolt sealing washers. Hopefully I can source those locally.

Apparently I need to pull the drive transfer case to replace the starter clutch. Given the other necessary tasks for a road-worthy machine, I will postpone the ES starter issue and exercise my right leg instead.

Cheers.

[Adrian II]

March 29th? You're in the USA, not Europe! 

Sounds like you have your work cut out, it might be worth taking off the primary cover an checking that there are no little pieces of dead sprag clutch waiting to cause mayhem. Have a new gasket standing by and refill with ATF.

It would be good if you could post some pictures on here.

A.

[heloego]

Welcome to the forums 
Please post some pics as you progress. If we can be of any assistance don't hesitate to ask, as there are a few AVL owners here.

[chuntera]

Thanks for the reply. I have a bunch of photos on my phone I should go through,

Here is before/after tank derusting

[chuntera]

This is the fuel petcock. I replaced the fibre washers. The plastic standpipe is worn down and does not seat well on the tap.

[chuntera]

Progress on cleanup of the exhaust. There is pitting around the welded bracket.

[chuntera]

Finally the new fork lowers and disc brake. This model originally had front drum brake.

[Bilgemaster]

Welcome aboard! I may have one of the older Iron Cylinder ones, but still think the AVL is one of the prettiest motors ever made by Enfield or anyone else. It'll all be worth it when you're thumping along down those byways.

[heloego]

So far looking pretty good!
The tank interior looks great. Will you seal it with something like RedKote?

[Adrian II]

Finally the new fork lowers and disc brake. This model originally had front drum brake.

That is what the Electra-X version of the 500 AVL (and also the G5/Electra-EFI) was originally fitted with. Looks better with the correct centrally mounted fender, IMHO, are you planning to fit one?

The exhaust seems to have been fitted with an aftermarket short muffler, which usually makes the bike sound much better. New ones of these are still available fairly cheap. if you want full chrome.

A.

[chuntera]

Hi All,
Still plodding along making my 2008 AVL road-worthy.
I primer-ed the inside of both fenders to stop corrosion and cleaned the shiny sides too. I put a couple layers of rattle-can paint of the front fender bracket.

I bought new turnsignals and pulled apart the taillight. I probably was too ambitious with the taillight; I epoxied in LED lights place of the bay15 bulb. Crimped new connectors for the turnsignals, etc. I plan to run a 2nd ground wire from the taillight to somewhere on the frame, probably rear fender mounting point. The front LH turnsignal will need a longer wire to reach the connector on the RH side of the frame.

I ran a new +ve battery cable and added an inline fuse to the starter solenoid. The bike came with the newer green TCI unit and the optional spark delay module. Both seemed redundant so I pulled the spark delay module. For some reason the kickstand kill switch wire ran though the spark delay module, took me all afternoon to figure where those two green wires are supposed to go.

I cleaned up the ucal bs29 carburettor, The float bowl was surprisingly clean however the pilot jet was plugged and took a few days soaking to unblock. The carb appears to have +4 main (120) and +1 pilot (17.5) and needle raised 1 notch. There were a pair of shims under the needle which I removed.

Incidentally, the intake manifold has an inlet port which the service manual said is for the PAV. It appears to be covered with electrician's tape(photo), I will need a better plug to prevent vacuum leaks.

[tooseevee]

Hi All,

Incidentally, the intake manifold has an inlet port which the service manual said is for the PAV. It appears to be covered with electrician's tape(photo), I will need a better plug to prevent vacuum leaks.

        Welcome.

         That small tube into the manifold is part of the Pulse Air system. Have the rest of the Pulse Air system components been removed? If so there is no where for a tube to be connected. Just seal it off.

[chuntera]

         That small tube into the manifold is part of the Pulse Air system. Have the rest of the Pulse Air system components been removed? If so there is no where for a tube to be connected. Just seal it off.

No sign of PAV/Pulse Air components. Need to find something better than electricians tape to seal that manifold tube.

[tooseevee]

No sign of PAV/Pulse Air components. Need to find something better than electricians tape to seal that manifold tube.

         I used JB-Weld on mine (oh, so long ago). Then after a little while I got rid of the whole carburetor.

[ringoism]

Incidentally, the intake manifold has an inlet port which the service manual said is for the PAV. It appears to be covered with electrician's tape(photo), I will need a better plug to prevent vacuum leaks.

The "right" thing would be a vacuum-cap (looks like a little nipple), they used to be available at auto-parts stores in all sizes.  Look good and don't leak / fall off.