[cs1976]

Cheers all,  Anyone out there mind running me through the gearbox sealed bearing conversion process? Are the bearings something I could acquire locally or special order? Thanks for any help on this.

[erob123]

Yo dude, do a search "sealed bearing" and you will get S load.

[Bankerdanny]

The bearings are easy to source. You want a 6303 2RS (2 rubber seal). Just do an internet search. They generally cost $2-$3 plus shipping.

During installation I removed the inner seal carefully with a screw driver. That way gear lube can get in and lube the bearings. They come pre-lubed, but I like the idea of gear oil constantly circulating.

Installation is similarly easy. You pull the inner and outer trans covers. The bearing is located in the inner cover. You can use the old bearing to tap the new one in place.

Pay attention to the order in which you remove the shift mechanism parts.

Order a couple of inner transmission cover gaskets from CMW (its a complicated gasket to make yourself) and you should replace the kickstart pawl while the box is open.

If you have never had the box apart, budget 2-3 hours for the job.

Here's a tip from hard experience: when removing the inner cover, press the main shaft (the one that sticks out and has the kick start attached to it) in as you pull the cover off. The shaft seats in a bushing at the back of the transmission and can slip out as you pull off the cover. It's not necessarily hard to put back in, but if you can keep it seated you save some possible hassles during reassembly.

[t120rbullet]

The left side bearing # is 6206-2RS (on the 4 speed).
There is a seal between it and the sprocket that should be replaced at the same time and every time you have it down that far.
I've had a worse time trying to seal up the left side than I have right side.

[cs1976]

Thank you guys for the insight. I appreciate it. 

[Bankerdanny]

If your only goal is to upgrade to regular gear oil (a very worthwhile upgrade), you shouldn't need to worry about the left side of the transmission.

The seal t120 mentions only comes into play if you are removing the primary entirely (say to replace the countershaft sprocket).

[stw]

So for the 4speed is the bearing I need the  6303 2RS for the right side if I'm only converting it to run gear oil?

[Bankerdanny]

Correct.

Snidal says 6305, but I bought one and it was too large. I already had my box apart so I looked at the original and it says 6303. I bought that size and it fit perfectly.

There are several different 6303's, unsealed like the stock bearing, the rubber sealed version, and a metal sealed version.

I bought the RS because I was concerned about leakage from the metal sealed version. However, another owner here use the metal version and reports no leakage. I would still recommend the RS though, it just seems more likely to remain leak free over the long run.

[mtrude]

Hello, be careful when removing and installing the bearing as its easy to bugger up the case, I heated my case  in the oven, and put the bearing in the freezer, and it went together well without a lot of pounding. Mine was changed during a right hand shift conversion. If your case is dirty you better wash it well or the oven will stink. Have fun, mtrude

[Peter]

Don't forget to drill a small vent hole in the filler passage right below the plug.

Peter

[Bankerdanny]

Good catch Peter, I should have mentioned that.

I was able to push the old bearing out with my fingers and it easily tapped in with a block and dead blow hammer with no heating of the case.

[geoffbaker]

I think everyone has covered ths subject well. I would suggest doing a search on bankerdanny's posts; he gave a very good description elsewhere of the entire process. Also Snidal covers it pretty well.
Take the time to heat the bearing and freeze the mainshaft well, it pays off when it all pops together well.
My oven did stink after I was done...
If you are even considering a LH to RH conversion, I would strongly advocate doing it all at once.