[Stingray]

Greeting, new here and a novice at bike building. Have been working on a cafe racer for some time, it's a 500UCE up-bored to 535. Runs high lift cams, competition valves, and a Power Commander with Autotune. And the weight being reduced by knocking of everything unnecessary and replacing the steel parts with aluminum ones.
Recently got the long stroke crank and a wosner piston, as bike was still not doing the ton. Will be installing them in the coming week. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.

[ace.cafe]

If you have a relatively big budget, you might consider our Ace GT535 Billet Head. Our bikes go over the Ton as 535cc.

You can check out the latest info here:
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,20474.600.html

[Guaire]

Greeting, new here and a novice at bike building. Have been working on a cafe racer for some time, it's a 500UCE up-bored to 535. Runs high lift cams, competition valves, and a Power Commander with Autotune. And the weight being reduced by knocking of everything unnecessary and replacing the steel parts with aluminum ones.
Recently got the long stroke crank and a wosner piston, as bike was still not doing the ton. Will be installing them in the coming week. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.

Stingray - Get some pictures of your 535 up here! Are you drag bike, or one for turns and handling.... or both?
Cheers,
Bill

[heloego]

   Welcome to the forums!    Any pics of your bike are always welcome, too! 

[ace.cafe]

You may want to look at the final drive gearing, and also look at the rev limiter rpm.
If you can't do the Ton, maybe you aren't revving high enough or have wrong gearing.

The 612 kit is likely to make the bike rev lower than before, because of the long stroke and bigger displacement. It will have more torque but probably at a lower rpm range.

[Bert Remington]

Stingray -- 100mph and the single-downtube stressed-member frame of the 500cc UCE are not a natural fit (the 500cc UCE is tremendous fun at legal surface road speeds).  I suggest you start by reviewing ScooterBob's and GasHouseGorilla's 500cc Cafe Racer project (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,16128.0.html) and Chilliman's death wobbles (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,25534.0.html) for lessons-learned, etc.

What I consider mandatory changes are:

(1) replace fork oil, perhaps with 15W for your application (http://www.belray.com/bel-ray-high-performance-fork-oil)

(2) replace swing arm bushings with metalastic (http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/rear-suspension/20652)

(3) align the swing arm (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,19716.msg216301.html#msg216301)

(4) loosen all engine-to-frame fasteners and ensure there is no binding; open holes on frame (not engine) as needed; tighten fasteners to torque specifications while engine is idling, preferably with an assistant to hold the motorcycle upright on its wheels, not stands.

(5) choose the correct tires and pressures; Avon Roadmasters at low (stock) pressures seem to be a good choice.

(6) replace front brake pads with EBC FA228 or for road track use FA228HH; replace brake fluid with ATE 200

(7) improve rear brake shoe centering per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHRm_t_8DYE

(8) replace the rear shocks -- anything is better although Hagon and Ikon seem to be the best

There are articles on fork braces, swing arm braces and steering dampers although benefits are not ensured.

WRT long-stroke engine, make sure you've read this article https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,25595.0.html

I think ace.cafe, GasHouseGorilla, ScooterBob, et al will agree with me that obtaining high speed stability for a 500cc UCE chassis is primarily a matter of carefully blueprinting end-to-end fitment and alignment to correct any out-of-spec factory assembly issues.  Double-check EVERYTHING!  And good torque wrenches (https://bikemaster.com/digital-torque-wrench.html) are your friend with this motorcycle.  Ask Arizoni if you have any questions on the correct torque values.

Lastly, to get the maximum benefit from forum members, provide details with pictures.  You haven't even told us the year much less the model of your UCE.  Put this information in you Signature.  And fill out your Profile.

[Stingray]

Cheers everyone for your inputs. Greatly appreciated. Need to start saving for the ace head!, till then will have to make do with what's at hand. While the ton eludes ( I am guessing as I have not an instrument to measure) bike does outrun the stock speedo, with still a fair bit of grunt left.
I have been running Hagon shocks at the rear, and the front ran on 41mm forks from the Thunderbird/Rumbler. Will look at the oil for the front fork.
The upgrades being worked on at the moment;
1. WP upside down suspension up front, with 320mm brakes.
2. Monoshock at the rear with a swingarm swap from a Yamaha FZR600.
3. Further weight reduction, removal of airbox with a cone filter. Swapping the stock battery with Antigravity XPS-SC1.
 While the longer stroke will bring down the revs (from 7700 to around 6300 redline), but my guess is that it will still increase the top speed.
Under construction image of the bike attached

[ace.cafe]

Cheers everyone for your inputs. Greatly appreciated. Need to start saving for the ace head!, till then will have to make do with what's at hand. While the ton eludes ( I am guessing as I have not an instrument to measure) bike does outrun the stock speedo, with still a fair bit of grunt left.
I have been running Hagon shocks at the rear, and the front ran on 41mm forks from the Thunderbird/Rumbler. Will look at the oil for the front fork.
The upgrades being worked on at the moment;
1. WP upside down suspension up front, with 320mm brakes.
2. Monoshock at the rear with a swingarm swap from a Yamaha FZR600.
3. Further weight reduction, removal of airbox with a cone filter. Swapping the stock battery with Antigravity XPS-SC1.
 While the longer stroke will bring down the revs (from 7700 to around 6300 redline), but my guess is that it will still increase the top speed.
Under construction image of the bike attached

Do you have a functional tachometer?

The rev limiter on these bikes cuts the revs at 5500 rpm. Even with the Power Commander max allowable rev limiter adjustment, it can only get to 6500 rpm.

[Bert Remington]

Stingray -- your profile and picture provide a much better understanding of your context and approach.

I'm baffled by those basing a 100mph motorcycle on the single-downtube, stressed-member 500cc UCE chassis, especially when they have the much superior 535cc UCE chassis available.  On the other hand, my track car is a 1989 Mustang GT.

With the extensive fork and swingarm changes you're making I think we should focus on both front and rear geometry so send measurements for the experts consideration.

Did you have Hagon build the shock to your weight and intended use?  If so, what is the resulting configuration (eg, spring rate, etc)?

You have a strong swingarm but the stock plastic bushings remain a weak point.  Install metalastic bushings or something better.

What tires and pressures are you planning on using?  Bigger is not always better, especially for stability on a motorcycle.

With your excellent RACE-ONLY battery, remove the kickstarter lever for weight and aesthetic reasons.  Upgrade both positive and negative battery and starter cables to minimum 12AWG stranded and install a fused Honda starter relay with exposed terminals.  Depending on compression ratio, you might need to upgrade your sprag clutch with the latest caged bearing.  In any event, you need to Loctite the crankshaft bolt.

Experiences vary on the need for clutch spring and plate upgrades.  I suspect there are oil type and additive interactions.

Replacing the front and rear engine-to-frame brackets with aluminum will save maybe 5-8 lbs so are a worthwhile weight reduction.  Whether or not you do this, double-up on the head stay. You need to have that big single firmly held in a triangle.

I hope you are living with your parents and have a rich girlfriend.  That's a lovely motorcycle but I recognize a money pit when I see one.   Ask my bank.   Keep the pictures coming.

[chuychacon]

great looking racer

[Stingray]

Do you have a functional tachometer?

The rev limiter on these bikes cuts the revs at 5500 rpm. Even with the Power Commander max allowable rev limiter adjustment, it can only get to 6500 rpm.

Happy new year, cheers!
Vajra runs the crank from a GT535, and the corresponding map for the PC5, allowing it to rev higher.

[Bert Remington]

Stingray, WRT airbox and cone filter, you ain't gonna get to 100mph with that messing up airflow.  You'll do much better with the ace.cafe airbox and a bellmouth intake.  Here's an excellent example https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,23044.msg266297.html#msg266297

ScooterBob and GasHouseGorilla have touched up the throttle body for better flow but I'd wait on that until you have some performance data.  However, I recommend you fabricate a thicker phenolic intake insulator.  GasHouseGorilla posted some pictures of his insulator.  I skipped the O-ring groove on mine because I think a 10mm insulator is stiff enough to seal with Hylomar Blue (or something similar).

For ignition, you want an NGK spark plug (7131 or 7734) with another cap and wire.  Some recommend changing the coil but I think that's a risk for ECU heating failure.  I went down Gremlin's "Taser" path (ie, boost primary to 16V).

WRT exhaust, read what GasHouseGorilla found about reversion.  Also where on your exhaust pipe are you going to locate your UEGO (Autotune AT-200 wideband O2 sensor)?  My plans are stock location with 18mm bung whose height is adjusted for proper probe exposure.

WRT instrumentation, I think MMB has the niftiest tachometer for a Royal Enfield https://mmb-instrumente.de/?option=com_virtuemart&view=category&virtuemart_category_id=26&lang=en and several members have installed them.  And if you want to monitor AFR while riding I think PLX is best because the separate controller box means you don't have a rats nest of wires at the gauge https://www.plxdevices.com/Wideband-O2-Touch-Screen-Multi-Guage-p/897346002719.htm  Note that you don't need two UEGOs -- the controller can pass-through its 6-wire UEGO signal to your AT-200.  Several people posted their engine temperature and oil pressure measurement solutions.  Based on their findings, neither of those are a concern with the robust UCE (after its received professional head care).

A mandatory workshop tool is an accurate compression gauge.  I bought one but didn't use it, a $1,500 mistake and why I'm not riding my RE now.  BTW consider a second cheaper rough-and-ready battery for cranking the engine in your workshop.  Save the precious Antigravity XPS-SC1 for the racetrack.

[Stingray]

Stingray -- your profile and picture provide a much better understanding of your context and approach.

I'm baffled by those basing a 100mph motorcycle on the single-downtube, stressed-member 500cc UCE chassis, especially when they have the much superior 535cc UCE chassis available.  On the other hand, my track car is a 1989 Mustang GT.

With the extensive fork and swingarm changes you're making I think we should focus on both front and rear geometry so send measurements for the experts consideration.

Did you have Hagon build the shock to your weight and intended use?  If so, what is the resulting configuration (eg, spring rate, etc)?

You have a strong swingarm but the stock plastic bushings remain a weak point.  Install metalastic bushings or something better.

What tires and pressures are you planning on using?  Bigger is not always better, especially for stability on a motorcycle.

With your excellent RACE-ONLY battery, remove the kickstarter lever for weight and aesthetic reasons.  Upgrade both positive and negative battery and starter cables to minimum 12AWG stranded and install a fused Honda starter relay with exposed terminals.  Depending on compression ratio, you might need to upgrade your sprag clutch with the latest caged bearing.  In any event, you need to Loctite the crankshaft bolt.

Experiences vary on the need for clutch spring and plate upgrades.  I suspect there are oil type and additive interactions.

Replacing the front and rear engine-to-frame brackets with aluminum will save maybe 5-8 lbs so are a worthwhile weight reduction.  Whether or not you do this, double-up on the head stay. You need to have that big single firmly held in a triangle.

I hope you are living with your parents and have a rich girlfriend.  That's a lovely motorcycle but I recognize a money pit when I see one.   Ask my bank.   Keep the pictures coming.

A very happy new year. Cheers.  Thanks a ton for all your input, greatly appreciate it. Vajra has the aluminum rims from the GT535, sticking to the Pirelli 100/80/18 front and 130/80/18 rear, as I had a pair at hand.
Had upgraded to EBC clutch plates and the seem to be hanging fine till now (around 7,000kms). Will check on the caged bearings
Loctite the crank bolt?
Aluminum brackets for the engine, will they hold? Will definitely strengthen the head stay.
Cheers for sharing your knowledge

[gizzo]

A while back were a few posts about Hitchcocks' aluminium plates breaking and owners reverting to stock steel ones. Go search if you care to.  I would skip the alloy plates personally. Alloy, solid mounts, vibration, that sort of thing.
Sweet looking bike, stingray. And some very cool and out of the box mods. Love it.

[ace.cafe]

You will need to set up the squish at about 1mm by milling the barrel to be flush with the piston at TDC, and using a 1mm head gasket.

After doing this, you should do a piston-to-valve clearance test on the intake side to be sure there is no touching around TDC during the overlap period. We found a need to make a small relief in the Wossner piston for the necessary 1.5mm intake valve clearance, when using high lift with proper squish setting.

Watch the compression with the 612 because it is compressing more volume into the same chamber and it might go too high. A lot will depend on the valve timing of whatever cams you have in there.

I would recommend going to at least a 36mm throttle body size. We picked up 2hp at rpms above 6000 with the 36mm. If you plan to rev that 612, you will need more throttle body size.

It seems like adding a Carberry anti-vibration cam plate may be a good idea.

[Stingray]

A while back were a few posts about Hitchcocks' aluminium plates breaking and owners reverting to stock steel ones. Go search if you care to.  I would skip the alloy plates personally. Alloy, solid mounts, vibration, that sort of thing.
Sweet looking bike, stingray. And some very cool and out of the box mods. Love it.

cheers bro?, doubt that I'll go for alloy plates, the cost to gain ratio goes out of wack!

[Stingray]

[move][/move]

You will need to set up the squish at about 1mm by milling the barrel to be flush with the piston at TDC, and using a 1mm head gasket.

After doing this, you should do a piston-to-valve clearance test on the intake side to be sure there is no touching around TDC during the overlap period. We found a need to make a small relief in the Wossner piston for the necessary 1.5mm intake valve clearance, when using high lift with proper squish setting.

Watch the compression with the 612 because it is compressing more volume into the same chamber and it might go too high. A lot will depend on the valve timing of whatever cams you have in there.

I would recommend going to at least a 36mm throttle body size. We picked up 2hp at rpms above 6000 with the 36mm. If you plan to rev that 612, you will need more throttle body size.

It seems like adding a Carberry anti-vibration cam plate may be a good idea.

Hi cheers for the input. Hopefully be able to attain the right compression.
About jets, can the jets for the EFI be changed?
Already running the Carberry vibration reduction plate on both my UCE bikes. The difference made is tremendous. Highly recommend the plates for anyone doing engine upgrades to the UCE.

[heloego]

There are no jets for the EFI.
The EFI has only the throttle body and an electrically controlled injector.
If you desire to play with the AFR your only options are the Power commander, EJK, or similar.

I've been using the EJK controller from Dobeck Technologies. Relatively cheap (though it only adjusts fuel) and the stock settings as received made a noticeable difference. I chose it because you can literally make adjustments "on the fly" instead of having to hook it up to a computer.
Bmadd made a product review of a nifty unit, also for a reasonable price.

[Bert Remington]

Stingray -- based on your initial post stating you were using Dynojet's combination of the Power Command (PCV) and Autotune (AT-200) that implies you will continue with the core Keihn fuel injection system.  While I'm sure larger fuel injectors (not jets as Heloego pointed out) can be found, I don't think they are needed.  First, GasHouseGorilla has found the duty cycle to be about 40% which leaves plenty of headroom.  Second, if your Autotune post-ride download reveals an unacceptable lean condition, I recommend you use an external fuel pump and adjustable pressure regulator to boost the fuel pressure and flow rate.  A 20% increase can probably be accommodated by the injector without affecting its pintle operation.  A fuel injector cleaning shop should be able to verify this.

How do you plan on developing the maps for your PCV+AT-200 combination?  Local speed shop with DynoJet dynamometer, on-the-road AT-200 real-time mapping (my planned approach), or   There are several forum members with Autotune who have described their approach.

As several experts have suggested, at this time you should be focusing the mechanical design of your end-to-end air flow: air box to muffler and EVERYTHING in between.  You need measured data to effectively address fuel flow so get your hot rod on the road and then tell us what the Autotune AFR numbers are.

[Narada]

I'm just wondering if you got your Vajra from Sage Dadhichi, or if it's one of those Buddhist ones?

Excellent name either way! 

[gashousegorilla]

  Cool project Stingray  !   Just a word of caution about that Carberry anti vibration plate in a performance engine .....  Don't use it.    The bearing that they use is only rated to 3000-4000 rpm's.   The bearing race they use is soft, and or the spring that they use to locate the race, does not hold it securely in place.    If you hear a high pitched whining noise all of a sudden ?  Pull over and get that thing out of there , before it starts spitting out small needle bearings.    Mine lasted less then a thousand miles.... Maybe I just got a bad one?   But I think it contraption that will eventually fail. 

[Stingray]

There are no jets for the EFI.
The EFI has only the throttle body and an electrically controlled injector.
If you desire to play with the AFR your only options are the Power commander, EJK, or similar.
Cheers bro, already running  PC5 on the bike.

I've been using the EJK controller from Dobeck Technologies. Relatively cheap (though it only adjusts fuel) and the stock settings as received made a noticeable difference. I chose it because you can literally make adjustments "on the fly" instead of having to hook it up to a computer.
Bmadd made a product review of a nifty unit, also for a reasonable price.

[Stingray]

Stingray -- based on your initial post stating you were using Dynojet's combination of the Power Command (PCV) and Autotune (AT-200) that implies you will continue with the core Keihn fuel injection system.  While I'm sure larger fuel injectors (not jets as Heloego pointed out) can be found, I don't think they are needed.  First, GasHouseGorilla has found the duty cycle to be about 40% which leaves plenty of headroom.  Second, if your Autotune post-ride download reveals an unacceptable lean condition, I recommend you use an external fuel pump and adjustable pressure regulator to boost the fuel pressure and flow rate.  A 20% increase can probably be accommodated by the injector without affecting its pintle operation.  A fuel injector cleaning shop should be able to verify this.

How do you plan on developing the maps for your PCV+AT-200 combination?  Local speed shop with DynoJet dynamometer, on-the-road AT-200 real-time mapping (my planned approach), or   There are several forum members with Autotune who have described their approach.

As several experts have suggested, at this time you should be focusing the mechanical design of your end-to-end air flow: air box to muffler and EVERYTHING in between.  You need measured data to effectively address fuel flow so get your hot rod on the road and then tell us what the Autotune AFR numbers are.

Yup stock injector. No dynoshop around where I live. So it will be real time, on the road map. Will look at what I can do about the intake/exhaust. If it breathes easy,it'll run easy....
Cheers for all the input

[Stingray]

  Cool project Stingray  !   Just a word of caution about that Carberry anti vibration plate in a performance engine .....  Don't use it.    The bearing that they use is only rated to 3000-4000 rpm's.   The bearing race they use is soft, and or the spring that they use to locate the race, does not hold it securely in place.    If you hear a high pitched whining noise all of a sudden ?  Pull over and get that thing out of there , before it starts spitting out small needle bearings.    Mine lasted less then a thousand miles.... Maybe I just got a bad one?   But I think it contraption that will eventually fail.

Thanks for your words of appreciation and valuable input.
Been running the vibration reduction place for a while, luckily no problem as yet. Will check about the bearing rating and replace if possible.

[Stingray]

I'm just wondering if you got your Vajra from Sage Dadhichi, or if it's one of those Buddhist ones?

Excellent name either way! 

Cheers, the name is more inspired by the Buddhist texts. But as far as I know in both Hindu and Buddhist texts it more or less means the same.
?

[Chilliman]

There is someone in Australia that is doing hydraulic and solid cams for the UCE, nasty cams
AND they are doing
1.5: rocker arms in non adjustable and adjustable varieties.
They have been getting tested in the US for around 5 months I hear and with very successful results.
The rockers are supposed to be stout and can take a flogging.
I bought some cams that weren't what I ordered but I did a heap of other mods that worked great.
I bought a Chinese 38mm EFI kit that was simple and effective and whacked a 1 3/4" engine pipe on with a crankcase evacuation system that worked a treat.
My 500 UCE actually goes like a tough 500 single these days.
Very happy.
There is serious power lurking in the loins of the 500 UCE.

[Bert Remington]

Chilliman -- interesting.  Please tell us more about the Chinese ECU.  Specifically how do you adjust its AFR mapping and what type of O2 sensor (narrow-band or wide-band) is used?  Do you use an AFR meter such as PLX's (https://www.plxdevices.com/Wideband-O2-Touch-Screen-Multi-Guage-p/897346002719.htm)?  And include some pictures please.

Note that Stingray has chosen the PCV+Autotune path to real-time AFR mapping which, at least in my understanding, implies retaining the Keihn ECU, throttle body and fuel injector.  There are gains to be made via his air box, bellmouth, intake manifold and phenolic spacer choices which would nicely match the 612cc displacement choice described in his initial post and should be relatively, compared to his chassis modifications, affordable and easy to make and tune.

How much power is available in the 500cc UCE?  From what I've seen, doubling the RWHP from 19 to 38 is fairly straight-forward although assembly and tuning care are needed with the result being a reliable, tractable machine.  Anything more than that seems to drastically change the character of the motorcycle and are expensive and difficult to achieve and maintain.

[gashousegorilla]

There is someone in Australia that is doing hydraulic and solid cams for the UCE, nasty cams
AND they are doing
1.5: rocker arms in non adjustable and adjustable varieties.
They have been getting tested in the US for around 5 months I hear and with very successful results.
The rockers are supposed to be stout and can take a flogging.
I bought some cams that weren't what I ordered but I did a heap of other mods that worked great.
I bought a Chinese 38mm EFI kit that was simple and effective and whacked a 1 3/4" engine pipe on with a crankcase evacuation system that worked a treat.
My 500 UCE actually goes like a tough 500 single these days.
Very happy.
There is serious power lurking in the loins of the 500 UCE.

   Mate, that Aussie bloke makes a mean rocker..... Lite,  can't break 'em and no monkey motion.    So I hear ..

[Chilliman]

I bought the Chinese efi kit about a year ago.
Pretty cheap too.
The only thing I didnt like was it would only operate with the one large pick up on the flywheel, but then again how many GREAT engines operated with just a set of points or single pick up.
It comes with everything engine temp sensor, intake air sensor, map sensor, CDI, ECU, throttle body, injector, O2 sensor (narrow), a 38mm throttle body.In some crazy moment I also bought a 44mm TB.
As Dr Phil would have said "What were you thinkin??".
The thing is, this system has the most tuneable system I have ever seen.
It takes a while to go through it all but has full fuel and ignition mapping,
rev limiter to 11000 rpm (not for RE :-) )
All the leads are clearly marked with a full long wiring harness.
That combined with the 5 cartons of free beer, the free cruise to South East Asia and the new car made it a real bargain I reckon.
Of course I am joking.................there was only 4 cartons of beer.

[Stingray]

Greetings, hope the cold is bearable in your corner of the woods.
We are finally getting some work done on Vajra. Planning on a header for it, the standard exhaust is 1.5 inches, further restricted by all the baffles. Any pointers on what would be a good sized pipe, for the header?

[ace.cafe]

It doesn't need to be any bigger I.D. than the exhaust port exit diameter.

It can expand a little by about 1/8" at around the 16" length location if you want.

[Stingray]

Cheers chief, you mean to say the dia can be increased at 16" from the start of the pipe?

[ace.cafe]

Cheers chief, you mean to say the dia can be increased at 16" from the start of the pipe?

Yes, if you are of a mind to make your own pipe. It is known as a "stepped pipe" which is fairly common on performance engines.
Just cut it there, not on a bend, and weld on the next larger pipe size. Typically, 1/8" larger.
Have the new pipe bent to match the original, so it fits.

You could have it plated or coated or wrap it with header wrap.

[Stingray]

The header is finally taking shape. Aluminum flange will further add to its lightness

[gizzo]

Those de-heavyening holes will add even more lightness!  . I'm just funnin' ya.  Looks good and I love the project.

[Roeland]

4 Years later - after a seized 535 engine I managed to find the time to rebuild the C5 to a 612 cc. I just hae 200 km on the clock and still riding in the beast; not taking it at present over 80 km per hour. the later does not seem very good at I cannot really go into 5th gear at this speed with the 19th sprocket.

Details :
- Hitchcocks Cranckshaft for 612
- ACE tuned head and intake manifold for original 535
- Power commander and Autotune
- Hitchcocks performance cams
- anti vibration cam plate
- open exhaust
- 19th front sprocket
- all European and/or Japanese engine bearing upgrades
- Hitchcocks new cylinder, barrel and rings

I get a feeling this will do the ton after the riding in.

Any idea how long I musty ride this in and at what speeds - the Indian recommendation seems a bit low in speed and too long in kms?

[ace.cafe]

Welcome back Roeland.

At 200km, I think you can begin increasing speeds in gears and top speed by weekly increments. Increase about 500 rpm per week until you have reached near the limits.
Make sure that the engine is fully warmed up before pressing further up in rpms.

Pretty soon, you can ride it as hard as you like.

Remember, the 612 stroke limits safe  rpms to less than the 535 stroke. With a 19 tooth, you will need to hit about 5600 rpm to do the Ton.

[Roeland]

Hi Ace, Nice to hear from you. I reckon I can do it at 5500 rpm or even 5450 - I have a larger back tire fitted.

Regards

Roeland

[Stingray]

Greetings, been a while. Have managed to finish the rolling chassis and rest of the body work and taken the bike for a spin. It behaved well, now its to the painters, while the engine gets upgraded from 535 to 612.

[Roeland]

Looks fabulous.

I now developed a new problem. A leaky gas tank; close to the head steady bracket. I brazed it 150 km ago but now started leaking again. Could this have to do we 612cc putting extra strain on the tank?

[GlennF]

Looks fabulous.

I now developed a new problem. A leaky gas tank; close to the head steady bracket. I brazed it 150 km ago but now started leaking again. Could this have to do we 612cc putting extra strain on the tank?

How would the 612 conversion put extra strain on the tank ?

[Roeland]

vibration

[Stingray]

True that does increase the vibrations, i have installed the Carberry vibration reduction plate on both my UCE bikes. Its helps a lot in reducing the vibes. Have also made the engine steady stay out of billet aluminium which again helps a bit. Been pondering over aluminium engine mounting brackets, which are being machined. Will post pics of the mounting plates when done.

[Roeland]

I also installed the vibration reduction plate - it works. The gas tank is fine now - I covered 800 km so far riding in the bike.