Author Topic: Swing arm Bush  (Read 5435 times)

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ssg

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on: December 17, 2018, 01:47:30 am
Recent models use plastic bushes ( May be high quality) in Swing arm but they need to get changed after sometimes. I have seen a few mechanics replace them with old iron bushings.
Re:[http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/rear-suspension/20652]
I need to change mine but no idea about the pros n cons of such replacement.
« Last Edit: December 17, 2018, 01:51:46 am by ssg »


Bert Remington

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Reply #1 on: December 17, 2018, 01:54:04 am
ssg -- very timely question.  Read this thread (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,26732.0.html?PHPSESSID=jkejlud72ocrko484dfv92i6f4) all the way to the end.  You're on the right track to a solution.
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HUdson51

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Reply #2 on: December 17, 2018, 02:33:59 am
If You are going to replace the swing arm bushing I would drill and tap a hole in the outer frame tube and install a grease fitting . Problem solved permanently. That is the way it should have been done during manufacture.


ssg

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Reply #3 on: December 17, 2018, 12:51:59 pm
I have changed the swing arm bush. The mechanic refused to install the old iron-rubber bush and went with the current plastic bushes.
After the installation the bike has become bit taller and the rear shock absorbers are seemed to be very stiff and bounces very small. The mechanic is saying as the bushes are brand new so the feeling is such and it will be adjusted along with time and running the bike.


Bert Remington

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Reply #4 on: December 17, 2018, 02:02:43 pm
ssg -- based on my installing composite (eg, metalastic) and plain (eg, urethane) bushings in a variety of vehicles I concur with Jako's recommendation to pre-load the suspension at its riding position (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,26732.msg306785.html#msg306785) before final fastener tightening.  This recommendation applies not only to your swing arm bushings but also to all other pivoting suspension points (eg, shock mounts).  In most cases, failure to do this results in increased spring rate when the suspension is in its riding position and increased wear rate on the bushings as they rotate.

WRT to having other people tailoring a vehicle to your specific interests, I found you must do two things:

(1) find a brand-independent workshop
(2) open your wallet wider

I found the stock UCE shocks to be uncomfortably stiff on our San Diego streets and following JVS's lead replaced them (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,26732.msg306785.html#msg306785).  The enclosed "Girling" style provides traditional looks matching the front forks and some environmental protection with greatly improved suspension performance.
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Jako

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Reply #5 on: December 18, 2018, 10:59:04 am
I have changed the swing arm bush. The mechanic refused to install the old iron-rubber bush and went with the current plastic bushes.
After the installation the bike has become bit taller and the rear shock absorbers are seemed to be very stiff and bounces very small. The mechanic is saying as the bushes are brand new so the feeling is such and it will be adjusted along with time and running the bike.


ssg , This sounds like the new nylon  bushes are binding on the inner sleeve , did the mechanic ream the bushes to correct size after pressing them into the swing arm ?  This is required as they compress and deform after being pressed .
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Haggis

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Reply #6 on: December 18, 2018, 11:22:42 am
If You are going to replace the swing arm bushing I would drill and tap a hole in the outer frame tube and install a grease fitting . Problem solved permanently. That is the way it should have been done during manufacture.
There are no moving parts between the frame and swingarm.
Only point of movement is between the plastic bushes and the spacer/pivot tube in the swingarm.
You could fit a grease point in the middle of the swingarm cross tube and grease both bushes at the same time?
Off route, recalculate?


GlennF

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Reply #7 on: December 20, 2018, 02:27:38 am
On a slightly related note, I am thinking of replacing the 320mm stock shocks on my B5 with the 300mm Hagons made for the Redditch bikes.

Has anyone done this?  I am interested to know if the shorter shocks will result in the rear tyre hitting the mudguard on maximum compression and also whether there may be chain issues.