[Elk Grove Don]

I hate to beat an old horse but I changed the oil & filter the other day and drained out approx. 1 1/2 qt.  As everyone knows the manual says that the bike takes 2.25 litres. which is about 79oz.  After the oil change I put in 2 qts.  Went for a spin and found that I had oil coming out of the air filter box.  Upon inspection I found that the crank case breather lines are fed into the air filter box and oil was being pushed out thru the tubes.  I guess two quarts was too much.  What gives?  The actual manual says that this motor is a dry sump system with the sump being internal with-in the crankcase, is it possible that all of the oil does not drain out?  There are two other plugs at the bottom of the crankcase, if those are removed there is a small strainer and little oil comes out.  This is indeed a mystery.
Elk Grove Don
 

[1Blackwolf1]

 I never checked what the manual exactly stated but when we (my wife and I) bought or two RE's the dealer told us not to put more than 1 1/2 quarts in them at oil change.  I believe the book might also be refering to imperial quarts, maybe that's where th e problem lies.

[Foggy_Auggie]

The old figures in the handbook have been revised as far as oil quantity.  1.6 quarts is all you want in there.  No more than halfway up the hash marks on the dipstick.

Overfilling the oil results in exactly what happened in your case.  And it's happened to a lot of us on our first oil change.

The center and front drain bolts on the crankcase bottom are the screens for the oil pump feed and return.  These only need checked every other oil change.

The rearmost bolt is the oil tank drain.

[Vince]

     No matter what any book says about any bike you should re-fill with just enough to bring the level near the measurement point (dip stick or sight level window). Run it for a few minutes. Shut it off. Re-check in 10 minutes and top off as necessary. This will avoid all the over fill problems. The issue is that the spec is for a dry motor. You never drain out ALL the old oil, so by re-filling to spec you will be over filled.

[Elk Grove Don]

Well, I've discovered one thing, there is nothing that is not covered in this forum.  After I posted this original question all I had to do was start going back thru "Old Subjects" and found everything I wanted to know.  I would like to add this to all of you on this oil change thing. Like I originally said I drained the oil, changed the filer and added two quarts and had the puke problem into the air filter so I spent a little money and drained the oil from the bike, refilled with 1 3/4 qt. of oil fired it up and rode it for a while, drained the oil,, ha, 1 3/4 qt. of oil drained out and no oil being blown out into the air filter,  I don't know about you but oil is cheap insurance, I plan on changing it every 300-400 miles, and the heck with synthetics and checking the dip stick.  I'll change the filter every third change.  The 2.24 ltr. (what the manual says) thing must be when the engine is originally filled.  I don't know about you but I can't tell what's on the dip stick when the oil is fresh and I'm not going to care any more.  With changing the oil every 400 miles I will have the confidence that all is well with the thumper... 

[clamp]

I had a friend bought a new Honda. he loved it so much he thought that changing the oil every 300miles was loving it. He rode it a lot the first week and changed the oil twice in one week.  he continued with this until the sump plug stripped and it cost him a fortune.

     He now does it at 3000.

   Another friend of mine who was quite wealthy bought brand new lexus. he would put 80,000 to 90,000 miles on it without changing anything ,--no services at all.

   He would trade it in and buy another. The trade in price was appropriate for the car but was more than the cost of  servicing up to 80,000

     There was nothing wrong with the car and was serviced and sold on.

     Oils today will do 100,000 miles --its the filters that need changing.

. 400 miles to an oil change is a waste of time and money.

[Elk Grove Don]

Ya know there is something to be said about the plug threads stripping out, I think I'll drill and tap the plug and install another, perhaps one with a 3/8 pipe thread and a magnetic tip.  As for the cost of the oil, oh well.  As for your friends car I feel sorry for the poor sap that wound up with it, 80 K isn't allot of milage for a car these days but I'm sure it's life was shortened.

[The Garbone]

I put in a magnetic plug at my 300 mile change and at 2000 miles it had quite a bit of shavings..   Its nice to know that is they are no longer floating about in there...

[scoTTy]

my oil is still a clean yellow at 600 miles after a 400 mile oil change... 1st one....  600 miles ago..  after I dusted my rear wheel and figure I will never ever have any problem with rust...  it finally righted itself..  i don't have the duckbill, and I don't have the sLurP pUMp either ... whew that little tank fills up with nasty looking stuff hUh?

[Elk Grove Don]

Did you make your own plug or was it a purchase?  The frightening thing after an oil change is to drain the oil pan an hold the  pan up to the light and see all the sparkly things, yikes!  As you know the only stuff that goes to the magnet is steel, the bearing and aluminum material is the shiny stuff.  I still think the magnet is a good thing.

[birdmove]

    You should have seen the "swarf" collectod on the oil filter of my Yamaha XT225 at the first oil change.Its a good thing I had been warned and seen photos of this at the XT225 forum, because it was pretty bad.But it gets progresively better at each oil change.

    jon

[The Garbone]

Did you make your own plug or was it a purchase?  The frightening thing after an oil change is to drain the oil pan an hold the  pan up to the light and see all the sparkly things, yikes!  As you know the only stuff that goes to the magnet is steel, the bearing and aluminum material is the shiny stuff.  I still think the magnet is a good thing.

Bought mine magnetic plug  at NAPA,  came with a nice flange and plastic crush washer.

[Foggy_Auggie]

     Oils today will do 100,000 miles --its the filters that need changing.

. 400 miles to an oil change is a waste of time and money.

Flat wrong.  The shearing forces break down the oil molecular structure.  Chemical engineering 101.

Most auto manufacturers recommend an average of 8000 miles between oil changes.  The jiffy lube joints recommend 3000 miles.

The EPA mandated sulphur and other compounds to be removed from oil formulations several years ago.  Todays auto oil blends are not as durable as the older sulphur blends.

Changing oil at the factory intervals would be the rule.  And experimenting on only changing the oil filter on the second highest expense item next to a house is a wee bit wacked out.

[Elk Grove Don]

Yep, that's what I thought, nothing wrong with changing oil, like I said it's cheep insurance.  I went down to my local NAPA guy and yes he had the magnetic plug, nothing like getting the heck scared out of you when there's stuff on it.  I'm starting to have problems with false neutrals (down shifting only) there is no clunk, so sure enough if I up shift after the down shift it will be in the gear I was looking for on the down shift, make since?  Hopefully this fun will disappear, after reading other forum discussions everything seems to iron out around 1000 miles, I hope my sence of humor and patience can last that long. I dare not try the no clutch with this thing, I'm afraid the 5 speed housing will say good-by.  All of my dirt bikes never saw the clutch after I got rolling, and the street bike didn't mind either if I matched the rpm's with the shift.

[clamp]

Most auto manufacturers recommend an average of 8000 miles between oil changes.  The jiffy lube joints recommend 3000 miles.

   Even going by your comments why 400miles.


    Read some heavy haulage magazines. Take a generator running 300KVA  6 cylinder cummins with turbo ,--pretty oil shearing stuff.

    At your yard stick you would be changing the oil 5 times a day !!!!