i feel stuck as what to do next. I started taking the primary side apart (magnet out, clutch basket out) with the intention of getting the sprag clutch out. should I carry on?
I've never been so deeply into the guts of mine, but it seems to me you might do well to press on and attend to that starter. Either repair or replace it, or remove it altogether. In either case, a proper examination seems in order, if only for safety's sake. Last thing you need is bits of random starter jetsam knocking around in there. Our hosts in Ft. Worth can provide you with whatever you may need, however you may decide. I'm happy to have a working starter, even though I have not used it in months--Now that I'm used to the beast I just don't stall out that much at lights anymore. If you do repair it, there are a few things you can do to try to keep that wonky sprague doodad happy:
- Instead of the 420 ml of 15W40 oil specified in the Owner's Manual (up to the level hole), pour in about 800 ml to a full quart or liter of Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid. This is said to better bathe that wonky sprague with just the stuff it likes, and won't do the clutch or alternator any harm. I am led to understand that a Factory Service Bulletin advising this added lubricant amount went out to dealers several years ago. I also add a dash (just about 2 ounces or roughly 50 ml) of Marvel Mystery Oil to the primary case, but then I also add it to my fuel, engine oil and use it as a desert topping and after shave. I just can't help myself. Incidentally, Type F ATF will also serve quite well as fork oil, which is just so blessedly easy to drain and change in our old "iron belly" Enfields that it makes me wonder why ALL bikes aren't so thoughtfully designed.
- If it has not already been removed, take that lighting "dogbone" connector out that I've already mentioned in an earlier posting. It just overrides the lighting switch on the handlebars, keeping them always-on. The problem with this is that one of the most frequent alleged causes for sprague clutch failure is said to be low battery power at startup, which will only be exacerbated by the drain from all those lamps. Whether I'm kicking or (rarely) electro-starting the beast, I always try to do so with lights off. That they're always so when I'm ready to start is actually thanks to my whole little shutdown routine: stop engine with decompressor, key off, lights off, kick start to top dead center (TDC) then decompress just a tad beyond that, fuel off, up on the stand, key out and into the left pocket. Then into the store to get another jug of Marvel Mystery Oil...
- When starting from cold, it's always a good idea to first free up the clutch plates by just pulling in the clutch and kicking it through a couple-few times. This is especially the case if you do use the electric start. In that case, you would still also do well to use the decompressor and kickstart to get the piston just a tad beyond TDC as if you're going to kick it, then pull in the clutch and hold it while you hit the starter button until she burbles to life...Less stress on the whole flakey rig that way.
So, just get what you have running well as she can on her own present terms and layout is my advice. Since all my other bikes have always had a right hand shift, I might have preferred that on the Enfield too. But you know what? I got used to the lefty pretty quickly, as you will with your righty, I'm sure. I certainly have no complaint whatsoever with my 5-Speed gearbox. It's as pleasant and precise as any Burman gearbox I've ever had on my Nortons. As for whether it has a belt or chain primary drive, I certainly wouldn't let that keep you up nights...Bit of a "nothingburger," if you ask me.
I do hope you get her squared away soon and with minimal fuss or expense. One thing to remember is
one thing at a time! Nothing will bugger up a ride quicker and make it harder to sort out than making a whole bunch of mods or changes all at once, until when the inevitable problem does occur you just don't know where the real gremlin may be lurking.