As the clutch plates wear, the the clutch pack effectively shrinks in depth. The pressure plate moves inboard under clutch spring load, pushing the release push-rod further through the gear-box main shaft. You end up with more push rod than you need, which you accommodate with the various adjustments.
Assuming a four speed box like mine:
The primary adjustment to get right is the screw and lock nut under the gearbox inspection plate. This should be set to leave minimal free play between the screw end and the push-rod it bears upon. The other inspection plate gives access so you can waggle the actuator arm to check for free play. If there is no free play here, the push-rod is always under load which fights the clutch springs and would be a cause of clutch slip. If there is too much free play here, then you are throwing away some of the available clutch release travel and the problem will then be clutch drag. If you cannot wind out the push-rod adjuster screw to allow a little free play because you are running out of thread then that would indicate severe friction plate wear.
Once the actuator arm is set up, with minimum free play and a full range of useful movement against the push-rod, you can use the cable adjusters to set a minimum of free play at the handle bar lever.
The whole set up is a bit marginal and is not helped by gearbox cover flex, which wastes precious clutch lift. Look down at your gear box as you pull in the handlebar lever and you will be able to see unwanted cover displacement.
Topic: Clutch (Read 1467 times)