[9fingers]

I finally found the source of the troubles I was having, the occasional sputtering and bucking under acceleration, and then the bike finally totally dying in my buddies driveway 1/4 mile down the road. I will attach a pic or two. Why didn't one of you tell me to check small negative lead from the battery? ............Just kidding since I have read many times that it is a good idea to replace it. Truth is, I didn't know what you all meant. I saw that my negative and positive wires were firmly attached and seemed fine. Only after I went out and bought a new battery and took out the old did I find that OTHER negative lead.....broken of course. The old battery is probably fine if a little weak in the cranking dept. I went with the Duracell Ultra battery with 220 CCA. $100, in stock local, great warranty, and it comes in black or grey. Anyway, the bike runs great again, such a pleasure to have it back. Thanks for all of the help and advice.
9fingers

[9fingers]

try posting pics this time

[9fingers]

broken lead

[Bert Remington]

9fingers -- don't stop there.  Finish the job (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,7829.msg299814.html#msg299814).

[Mad4Bullets]

There's the familiar culprit. Congratulations!

[wildbill]

well that's one thing but knowing enfield's -there is always more following...lol

[9fingers]

wildbill, that does worry me. I really don't have a lot of time to work on bikes and needing a trailer ride home too many times will be a deal killer. Actually, even after I had it fixed I let it warm up about 5 minutes, purring like a kitten, rode down my 500 foot rocky driveway, and as I accelerated away in less than 75 feet it died again. I rolled into my extra grandmother's driveway and it cranked strongly but did not run. I moved the kickstand down and up and THEN it ran! So, that is the 2nd time that switch has done this to me in 1200 miles.......strong hint here. So, I will figure out how to eliminate that "safety" feature. Hopefully I won't continue to have failures so I won't need to trade for a Triumph, or one of the new BSA's (I would wait a couple of years on that one) or one of the new 650 twins (see previous statement). Truthfully, there is no other bike I would want to own if I were to five up on this one. I never wanted a road bike till I found the RE500. These things are cool!..........when they run.
9fingers

[9fingers]

9fingers -- don't stop there.  Finish the job (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,7829.msg299814.html#msg299814).

Bert, when you guys talk about the "small negative lead" is it the wire that frequently breaks or is the terminal break like I had?

My son is going to bring me some of his electronics know how (Sr year engineering student and Captain of his schools Baja car racing team) and help me replace the terminal that broke. I just drilled a new hole and hooked it up again. If that wire is ALSO the frequent culprit then I will have him help me replace that too. What gauge wire is appropriate?Thanks!
9fingers

[mattsz]

Familiar indeed!  Now you'll know right where to look when it happens again, even after  you install your quality heavy-duty aftermarket connector:

[9fingers]

Familiar indeed!  Now you'll know right where to look when it happens again, even after  you install your quality heavy-duty aftermarket connector:

You are making me think I should make the new connector out of 14 gauge 304 SS! But then the wire will break, right?

[mattsz]

You are making me think I should make the new connector out of 14 gauge 304 SS! But then the wire will break, right?

   Maybe...

Some bikes vibrate more than others... can you guess where on the scale mine landed?

[Arizoni]

9fingers:

To disable the side stand safety switch just find the switch and then follow the wire.

It will end up plugged into the main harness near to the frame downtube at the rear of the engine.

Just unplug it from the main harness and the switch will never again cause you any problems.

[hpwaco]

PS:  I put the same Duracell Ultra battery from Batteries Plus in my 14 gt earlier this year as preventative measure and keep it on a maintained.   Also checked " small" wire at the time.

[Bilgemaster]

Glad to hear that it seems you've got yours sorted. The more I read about that irksome legion of fancified electrical Gremlins in various UCE-engined rides (wonky sidestand switches, fragile ground and other terminals, fritzed out Ammeters, listless fuel pumps, etc.), the more grateful I become to have my old "El Primitivo" Iron Belly with none of those 21st Century "improvements."

[9fingers]

Glad to hear that it seems you've got yours sorted. The more I read about that irksome legion of fancified electrical Gremlins in various UCE-engined rides (wonky sidestand switches, fragile ground and other terminals, fritzed out Ammeters, listless fuel pumps, etc.), the more grateful I become to have my old "El Primitivo" Iron Belly with none of those 21st Century "improvements."

That's funny......my son said the same thing about the electrics on his college teams Baja buggy.......was glad it did not have all the crap that my bike had on it. Ever the optimist, I think that after I replace that ground lead with something more robust, and eliminate the side stand switch, I will be good to go for a long time. At least I hope so. BTW, I do see slow but constant improvements on the bikes, from what I know at least. The owners of 2018 bikes would have to comment but I believe they have simplified/neatened the wiring in some areas, and my 2016 came with a sealed AGM battery, not the leaky lead acid ones that I hear about. It is not as good as the Duracell I just installed, but it was a decent quality battery, I think. Always hopeful! And with BSA entering the fray, RE will need to improve. Actually, what they have learned designing the Himalyan and the new 650s should eventually rub off on the 500.
9fingers