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Author Topic: Questions on RH shift conversion  (Read 636 times)

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Stanley

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on: October 09, 2018, 12:19:24 pm
2000 Bullet 500

Even though my bronze-bushed LH shift is working fairly well, I'd like a less-spongy rear brake and two springs to keep the centerstand in place, plus the better shift action and more chain clearance under the primary.

I'm accumulating parts per Snidal's menu, a sub-$200 task ordering ala carte.

Is replacing shift forks with the RH shift part worth the labor?
What is the resulting shift pattern?
Will the drain and level plugs need replacing?

Well, that's it.
Gracias!
Give a Brit a piece of metal and he'll do something silly with it.


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #1 on: October 09, 2018, 01:16:48 pm
There is no need to replace the shift forks unless there is some unusual wear on them from lack of lubrication. The forks I have seen are the least likely to wear out.

The resulting shift pattern is one up, three down.

The kit will include a new bell crank, inner gearbox cover (which includes new oil level plug bolts).

On my conversion, the opening for the kick starter shaft needed to be enlarged a few thousands. Also, the opening in the outer cover where the neutral finder lever passes through needed to be enlarged slightly.

You will have to pay particular attention to the positioning of the Bell Crank Bush.  The Snidal manual says the bush should be flush with the lip of the inner cover opening.  In my kit, I found this not to be correct, mine needed the bush to protrude approximately 2 or 3 mm out of the the inside of the inner cover.  With the bush flush with the cover as Snidal suggests, there was too much slop introduced into the shifter such that I would get a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd gear. This is something you will have to play with so that the bell crank engages the shifter fork with the least amount of lash.  I had to add and subtract shims onto the bell crank shaft to get just the right amount of lash to eliminate false neutrals.

Remember that these kits are not mass produced on CNC machines and are better described as semi-hand made. As such, there is variations from one kit to another so that your skill at making small adjustments as you assemble the kit is of utmost importance.  These imperfections are one of the most important characteristics of the Iron Bullets, once you get it dialed in, you can say contributed to the hand made features of this motorcycle.

Moving the rear brake lever to the proper left side improves the rear brake at least 100%.

I think Blasphemous has had some recent experience with this conversion and may be able to add some tips to this discussion.


 






« Last Edit: October 09, 2018, 01:21:23 pm by mrunderhill1975a »


Stanley

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Reply #2 on: October 09, 2018, 05:43:26 pm
Mrunderhill,
It helps to have all the facts before diving in, especially since I'm not using a kit.
Indian quality control always involves some improvisation.

Thanks for the information!















Give a Brit a piece of metal and he'll do something silly with it.


cyrusb

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Reply #3 on: October 09, 2018, 07:51:12 pm
Did mine 10 years ago, but I do remember some fiddling with clearances and shims to position the shifter spline shaft. None were a big deal. However there were 2 holes to plug in the primary housing and one in the tranny cover. It payed to have a lathe to handle those.


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #4 on: October 10, 2018, 05:47:03 pm
If you do not have a kit, you will need the inner gearbox cover, as well as a different bell crank.  If I remember correctly, the right foot shifter bell-crank is rotated 90 degrees in relation to the neutral finder lever.  Make sure you have the correct bell crank or you will never get the correct gear.


pushrod

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Reply #5 on: October 10, 2018, 07:16:16 pm
 It's worth the effort in my opinion, I did my 2000 about 4 years ago. I bought the complete kit from Hitchcocks England. Everything went togeather without a problem, all parts fit as they are supposed to. Best to have a garage to do the job in, and take a break when you need to. Getting the shifting just right took some time and patience to dial it in.
Pushrod
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Stanley

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Reply #6 on: October 11, 2018, 05:53:07 pm
Thanks, all.
I used Snidal's parts list to order parts, and I have a small lathe. I just need to wait for a dozen or little packages.

 
Give a Brit a piece of metal and he'll do something silly with it.


finbullet

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Reply #7 on: October 16, 2018, 12:44:24 pm
I did the conversion last year and it's worth it. I ordered the parts myself like you. The first inner cover I got, had too small holes for the bell crank bush and for the main bearing so when I pressed them in, the cover cracked. (I assumed they were machined properly. Lesson learned don't assume anything! Measure it) the second inner cover had right size holes. But the inner cover and the outer cover are from a different manufacturer so they are a little bit different in shape so the "sealing" surfaces don't match at the bottom (one has rounder corners and the other has sharper corners) and I had to file the neutral lever hole to get it in.  So when you get the parts measure all tthe holes and inspect the parts because there are toleranses.

I adjusted the bell crank bush so that it was flush with the shifter rachet base plate when it was in it's place.


Stanley

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Reply #8 on: October 17, 2018, 12:19:54 pm
Thanks for the info.
I always treat Indian made parts with skepticism.
Makes each ride an adventure.
Give a Brit a piece of metal and he'll do something silly with it.


blasphemous

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Reply #9 on: November 08, 2018, 05:01:11 pm
I did this last year and defn worth doing it. Much much better shifting than the stupid linkage that goes across. I ordered my kit from forum hosts and everything was a good fit. Remember that the main bearing nut is left hand threaded and tight, I had to take mine in to a garage to use the airtools to have a go at it. But other wise it was smooth sailing. The gear box is packed with grease and I got 80% off but didn't take the brush to it, figured the gear oil changes will eventually flush everything off. I used a sealed bearing so I could run gear oil. It did take me a ridiculously long time to get the gear changing right but I think I am mostly there. Be patient and understand what needs to be done before you do it, that will save you a lot of time. There is a video briefly going thru the process on youtube, between that, the snidal manual and the fine folks here I got it done, was fun too. I made videos as I did mine so I can share info if u need some more. Good Luck!


Stanley

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Reply #10 on: November 09, 2018, 06:27:15 pm
Started the conversion and all seemed to go well (filthy work) until I got ready to install bushing, bearing and kickstart. All three holes were oval and the kickstarter hole undersized. Machining would cost so much in time and money I just ordered a new cover from UK.
Just wanted to leave a post to warn about false economy in this instance.
Give a Brit a piece of metal and he'll do something silly with it.


Stanley

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Reply #11 on: November 26, 2018, 04:28:47 pm
After some false starts with a badly made inner cover I now have a RH shift Bullet. There's still some ratchet fettling required to get it to upshift from neutral. I even ground a little clearance on the bearing cap without luck. One sweet result is the rear brake improvement. What a difference to be rid of that sloppy crossover junk and run clean SAE 90 oil. When I get back from holiday across the pond I'll be ready to sort it out. :)
Give a Brit a piece of metal and he'll do something silly with it.


pushrod

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Reply #12 on: November 28, 2018, 06:41:41 pm
Great news!
Pushrod
Times change, not me.