i plan to do this myself in a matter of weeks. so that plug was the hardest to move and how did you do it.
did the ride quality improve. all info on your job appreciated
You really have to follow Scotty's very detailed instructions. Those screw-in forks are weird. You need a long 12mm hex key and a breaker bar to get them to screw out. The fork's top cap, which is the same one that you use to screw out the fork assembly, is a reverse thread (makes sense), but mine were in very tight. I had to have help holding the fork tubes steady. I used penetrating oil around the plugs then hit them several times with a hammer-type impact driver, followed by several minutes using an electrical impact wrench with a 12mm hex bit before they started turning. (However, keep in mind that mine had never been removed in over 7 years and who know how they were tightened at the factory.) Scotty recommends reinserting the fork tubes back into the headlight nacelle and clamping the lower triple tree bolts tight to hold them in place. But I didn't do that. I wrapped the fork tubes with friction tape and did my best to keep the tube from turning when the impact wrench was being used. The amount of fork oil in my B5 is 200cc, according to my owner's manual and that amount is what I used. The fork action seems smoother and more controlled now. Surprisingly, the oil that came out was not as nasty as I had expected. It was black but no chunks of stuff came out with the oil and it didn't stink too bad.
What Scotty doesn't tell you are the torque specs for reassembling the fork and front wheel. The lower triple tree pinch bolts get tightened to 33 NM. The caliper bolts take 27 NM and the front wheel axle is tightened to 50-70 NM. I have the factory service manual for the bike and it is useless for removing and reinstalling the forks. All it says is to remove them from the bike. Nothing about how or that the fork caps are reverse threaded.
Any other questions?