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Author Topic: Thank you Ducati Scotty  (Read 1253 times)

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Richard230

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on: October 07, 2018, 05:01:38 pm
I changed the fork oil in my B5 yesterday and I could never have done it without Ducati Scotty's C5 Fork Tutorial (posted on the old forum as index.php/topic.10813). While I didn't rebuild the forks like he did, I did use his instructions to remove the forks from the headlight nacelle. His comment about the fork cap threads being a reverse thread really saved the day. This was the first time the fork oil had been changed since my bike was built in February 2011 and getting those caps off was a real bear. It took a lot of hammering with an electric impact hammer to loosen them. But the job got done and my bike has new (and real) 10W fork oil now. The forks are working just great. Pictures attached. Thanks again Scotty!   ;D
2011 Royal Enfield B5 500, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2005 Triumph Bonneville T-100, 2002 Yamaha FZ1


wildbill

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Reply #1 on: October 07, 2018, 07:26:34 pm
i plan to do this myself in a matter of weeks. so that plug was the hardest to move and how did you do it.
did the ride quality improve. all info on your job appreciated
2011 C5 black/chrome
2012 C5 maroon/chrome 
2013 B5 black
2014 Continental gt
2014 C5 tan
2015 black/chrome
2015 limited edition dispatch
2016 lagoon blue 500
2016  ash white 350
2017 graphite/chrome 500
2018 gun metal grey 500
2018 C5 Pegasus 500
2017 C5 Redditch 500


Richard230

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Reply #2 on: October 07, 2018, 08:21:14 pm
i plan to do this myself in a matter of weeks. so that plug was the hardest to move and how did you do it.
did the ride quality improve. all info on your job appreciated

You really have to follow Scotty's very detailed instructions. Those screw-in forks are weird. You need a long 12mm hex key and a breaker bar to get them to screw out. The fork's top cap, which is the same one that you use to screw out the fork assembly, is a reverse thread (makes sense), but mine were in very tight.  I had to have help holding the fork tubes steady. I used penetrating oil around the plugs then hit them several times with a hammer-type impact driver, followed by several minutes using an electrical impact wrench with a 12mm hex bit before they started turning. (However, keep in mind that mine had never been removed in over 7 years and who know how they were tightened at the factory.) Scotty recommends reinserting the fork tubes back into the headlight nacelle and clamping the lower triple tree bolts tight to hold them in place. But I didn't do that. I wrapped the fork tubes with friction tape and did my best to keep the tube from turning when the impact wrench was being used. The amount of fork oil in my B5 is 200cc, according to my owner's manual and that amount is what I used. The fork action seems smoother and more controlled now.  Surprisingly, the oil that came out was not as nasty as I had expected. It was black but no chunks of stuff came out with the oil and it didn't stink too bad.  :)

What Scotty doesn't tell you are the torque specs for reassembling the fork and front wheel. The lower triple tree pinch bolts get tightened to 33 NM. The caliper bolts take 27 NM and the front wheel axle is tightened to 50-70 NM. I have the factory service manual for the bike and it is useless for removing and reinstalling the forks. All it says is to remove them from the bike. Nothing about how or that the fork caps are reverse threaded.  >:(

Any other questions?

2011 Royal Enfield B5 500, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2005 Triumph Bonneville T-100, 2002 Yamaha FZ1


Bert Remington

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Reply #3 on: October 07, 2018, 08:41:25 pm
These are excellent instructions for the "bent" forks but not the "straight" forks on the C5.  The "straight" forks have an 8mm "normal" (ie CCW) loosen socket head cap with steel washer.  Remove caliper and tape it to downtube; remove remaining six fender bolts; remove front wheel; remove fender; remove fork caps; loosen lower triple clamp bolts two turns; and slide out fork tubes.  CMW offers Bel Ray 10W fork oil (https://www.classicmotorworks.com/bel-ray-10w-fork-oil/).  There is some question on how much to use so I won't venture an opinion -- do your own search.  However more is stiffer.

If you want to go beyond fork oil replacement, RaceTech is ready to lighten your wallet (http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Royal%20Enfield/Bullet%20500/2007-17).
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version
2012 MG Norge 1200GT 8V roller lifters
2000 BMW R1100RT


wildbill

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Reply #4 on: October 07, 2018, 08:53:51 pm
thanks for the detailed reply...very helpful. my new bike is bouncing all over the road. I dropped the rear shocks to their softest setting BUT its up front I really feel the first jolt through the bars.
I plan to do this oil fork change shortly - that is after the correct socket arrives in the mail.
not all C5's ride the same...its just like their motors. ..some are good and some are crap!
2011 C5 black/chrome
2012 C5 maroon/chrome 
2013 B5 black
2014 Continental gt
2014 C5 tan
2015 black/chrome
2015 limited edition dispatch
2016 lagoon blue 500
2016  ash white 350
2017 graphite/chrome 500
2018 gun metal grey 500
2018 C5 Pegasus 500
2017 C5 Redditch 500


wildbill

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Reply #5 on: October 07, 2018, 09:07:22 pm
thanks to BOTH detailed replies ;)
2011 C5 black/chrome
2012 C5 maroon/chrome 
2013 B5 black
2014 Continental gt
2014 C5 tan
2015 black/chrome
2015 limited edition dispatch
2016 lagoon blue 500
2016  ash white 350
2017 graphite/chrome 500
2018 gun metal grey 500
2018 C5 Pegasus 500
2017 C5 Redditch 500


mattsz

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Reply #6 on: October 08, 2018, 04:10:49 am
Ducatti Scotty's tutorial is here:

https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,10813.msg125736.html#msg125736


Also, here's information about a printable PDF version of the tutorial for anyone who wants it - still available 6 years later!

https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,10813.msg169704.html#msg169704


Richard230

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Reply #7 on: October 08, 2018, 08:08:16 am
I might add that it is helpful when removing the front wheel to place a 1/2 inch wooden board under the center stand so that the wheel can be raised a little more than otherwise when the front end is jacked up. That allows the front wheel to be removed without loosening or removing the front fender.  Removing the caliper before removing the wheel also makes the job easier.
2011 Royal Enfield B5 500, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2005 Triumph Bonneville T-100, 2002 Yamaha FZ1


Bert Remington

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Reply #8 on: October 08, 2018, 08:23:18 am
I forgot to mention -- wrap a tiedown strap from centerstand to downtube to prevent rolling off the centerstand.
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version
2012 MG Norge 1200GT 8V roller lifters
2000 BMW R1100RT


Haggis

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Reply #9 on: October 08, 2018, 08:34:41 am
Just giving mine a going over, just ask if there is anything you want to know.

« Last Edit: October 08, 2018, 08:48:39 am by Haggis »
Off route, recalculate?


Bert Remington

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Reply #10 on: October 08, 2018, 09:00:22 am
That is a "straight" fork as used on a C5.  Ducati Scotty's excellent instructions are for the "bent" forks.

All parts are shown in this picture except top cap and washer.

Note the flats on the fine-thread plug to the left of the inner leg.  That's the one that's tricky to remove due to spring tension.

Haggis -- is your plug steel or aluminum?  Also the white spacer to the left of the spring -- is that stock?  What fork oil did you use?

PS thanks very very much for that picture.
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version
2012 MG Norge 1200GT 8V roller lifters
2000 BMW R1100RT


Haggis

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Reply #11 on: October 08, 2018, 10:06:54 am
Was not sure if the internals for the older style forks were the same or not.
Do the older forks have the same top and bottom bushes?
Yes that very very tight top cap is steel with an O ring seal.
Not too much spring preload as I am able to reinsert the top cap the first few turns by hand.
The white spacer is plastic. Really. No washers either end.
I have a bottle of Silkolene/Fuchs 15w fork oil handy, so thats what I will use.

Just had a look at the older forks strip down, there are NO fork bushes fitted. Is this how they are on the older (bent)  models?
« Last Edit: October 08, 2018, 10:17:52 am by Haggis »
Off route, recalculate?


Richard230

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Reply #12 on: October 08, 2018, 04:34:04 pm
Haggis, your fork is certainly a lot cleaner than my B5 bent-bottom fork was. It had a rusted steel spacer instead of your clean plastic one and a rusting washer on top of the spring, located between the spring and the steel spacer.  My fork cap also didn't look anywhere near as clean as yours does.  Since I just replaced my oil instead of pulling the entire fork apart, I can't say what else was different, although Scotty's photos show everything inside the fork and I assume mine would look the same. For me 10wt fork oil seems to work fine. I think 15wt would be too stiff for my bike. But then it seems like every fork and RE is a little different - as you no doubt are aware.  ::)

Good luck putting everything back together and let us know how it works once you go for a ride on a rough road.  :)
2011 Royal Enfield B5 500, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2005 Triumph Bonneville T-100, 2002 Yamaha FZ1


Bert Remington

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Reply #13 on: October 08, 2018, 05:05:52 pm
My reading indicates less oil (more air) produces softer ride so maybe 170cc 15W might provide larger comfort range?
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version
2012 MG Norge 1200GT 8V roller lifters
2000 BMW R1100RT


wildbill

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Reply #14 on: October 08, 2018, 08:24:53 pm
thanks for all the above info. just goes to show when you think all the new bikes in the enfield range should be equal rides...still not the case.
2011 C5 black/chrome
2012 C5 maroon/chrome 
2013 B5 black
2014 Continental gt
2014 C5 tan
2015 black/chrome
2015 limited edition dispatch
2016 lagoon blue 500
2016  ash white 350
2017 graphite/chrome 500
2018 gun metal grey 500
2018 C5 Pegasus 500
2017 C5 Redditch 500