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Author Topic: Went for my first ride but now have a misfire  (Read 296 times)

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9fingers

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on: October 06, 2018, 09:39:18 am
Well, it has been about 10 weeks since my deer encounter and I went for my first ride yesterday, about 100 miles of back roads.......it was fantastic! But on my way back I started having a misfire or burp on acceleration out of slow corners, 2nd or 3rd gear somewhere past 1/2 throttle I would say. It only happened every once in a while but towards the end of the ride it seemed to get worse, with some bucking as I was accelerating. When I got home I put it on the center stand and opened the throttle and it was sputtering badly and would not rev freely. I don't know if it is flakes of paint in the gas tank......the opening paint is peeling off to the chrome, or if it is perhaps the battery ground wire I have read about. In my deer crash the deer took out my front wheel and the bike went down hard and during my repairs the only thing I can think of is I had to loosen the exhaust manifold and muffler to get the bolt out for the ride side footrest, which was bent. I think I have the manifold in tight. The bike popped a couple of times when I shut the throttle down, but no backfiring, nothing serious. Fuel issue or electrical???
Any ideas for me?
9fingers
Further note: at the half way point the engine was off for 15 min or so and then we headed back. The malfunctions started on the way home. Also, I don't recall seeing the malfunction light on but it was fairly bright out and I did not look. I just rode it again, up and down my street, acceleration was fine. But when I got to the top of my driveway I tried revving it and after 1/2 throttle it burps and sputters and does not want to run cleanly. I have 1200 miles on the bike.
« Last Edit: October 06, 2018, 03:50:10 pm by 9fingers »
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9fingers

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Reply #1 on: October 06, 2018, 03:47:03 pm
Was just reading Holego's tales of woe, and read a posting by portiseheadric that stated

 "The Himalayan's employ a system where if the bike is in neutral and exceeds a certain RPM limit, it cuts fuel to the engine - this is in addition to the rev limiter which cuts in at much higher RPM."

 and the 2016 Classic must have a similar system as mine cuts out terribly if I just rev it while it is on the stand. But I just took it out for a 5 mile ride and it was perfect! I accelerated at full throttle up to 50 and did the same in 4th or 5th up to 55, as fast as I wanted to go on local roads. There was no hesitation at all.........ran flawlessly. I guess I need to take it out for a longer ride and see if the problem reappears. On yesterday's 100 mile ride the temp was 65 F and we were doing mostly 40 to 45mph the whole way, other than stops and bits at 50mph. So it was not strained in the least and the bike could not have been hot. It did seem like a fuel starvation issue but I topped off the tank with 93 before we left.
9fingers
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wildbill

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Reply #2 on: October 06, 2018, 07:48:04 pm
might be worth throwing in a new ngk bpr6es plug and try again
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9fingers

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Reply #3 on: October 06, 2018, 07:58:15 pm
might be worth throwing in a new ngk bpr6es plug and try again

wildbill, that is the first thing on my list.......and the easiest. Thanks
9fingers
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wildbill

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Reply #4 on: October 06, 2018, 08:32:46 pm
might also be worth taking a peek and pressing in to click the injector port and both connector either side of the inlet manifold.
I once had a bike with one not locked in from new and it caused a bit of drama.
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Chilliman

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Reply #5 on: October 07, 2018, 12:44:51 am
My C5 is ridiculously hard on plugs.
If I get 3000kms it is a miracle.
I ride fairly "hard" as in long distance 100-120kph for 3-4 hours a week in 35-40 C temperaure.
BP6ES - BPR6ES no difference in performance or plug life.
When the plug is ready to change it does most of the things you say.


tooseevee

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Reply #6 on: October 07, 2018, 06:53:24 am
My C5 is ridiculously hard on plugs.
If I get 3000kms it is a miracle.
I ride fairly "hard" as in long distance 100-120kph for 3-4 hours a week in 35-40 C temperaure.
BP6ES - BPR6ES no difference in performance or plug life.
When the plug is ready to change it does most of the things you say.

           When in doubt, replace the plug first off. Don't even think about it, just throw a new plug in.

            THEN look for other stuff.

           
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9fingers

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Reply #7 on: October 07, 2018, 02:29:41 pm
I must be doomed. I bought an NGK plug, BPR6ES and attempted to unscrew the end cap so that the RE plug cap fits.........and the entire core of the plug came out! BTW, the Bosch plug  end that gets connected to the plug wire, is quite corroded AND the cap was barely on the plug........think this might have been my problem. Going to Reinstall the Bosch for now and take the NGK back to the parts store, either for a replacement or for a Champion.
9fingers
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Bert Remington

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Reply #8 on: October 07, 2018, 03:01:18 pm
Life's little surprises.  Make sure you get the NGK 7131.  WRT to cap and wire, there are many suggestions here on replacing it.  I think a 7mm wire with a straight boot is best.  I used 8.5mm wire with short right-angle boot because that's what I had on hand.  Works fine but isn't tucked away like I prefer.
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wildbill

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Reply #9 on: October 07, 2018, 07:38:10 pm
either way you look at it -put the ngk in the bike and forget about that fouling bosch plug.
ive rode quite a lot of bikes with both plugs and the bosch is not worth leaving in.
bike will idle and pull better with the ngk!
even if it is the cap which it may be the smart move would be to PUT IN THE NEW PLUG TOO! ;)
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GlennF

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Reply #10 on: October 15, 2018, 11:46:01 pm
A common cause of this issue on older UCE bikes was a faulty sidestand nanny cutout switch which would intermittently cut the ignition power when the engine vibrated resulting in fouled plugs and missing.

The solution back then was to disconnect the sidestand cutout switch and remember to always put the side stand up.


9fingers

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Reply #11 on: October 16, 2018, 06:06:19 am
Life's little surprises.  Make sure you get the NGK 7131.  WRT to cap and wire, there are many suggestions here on replacing it.  I think a 7mm wire with a straight boot is best.  I used 8.5mm wire with short right-angle boot because that's what I had on hand.  Works fine but isn't tucked away like I prefer.

Thanks Bert, I will order the cap and get a new plug since I ruined the first one I bought trying to unscrew the end........I haven't bought a new plug in many years and in the old days they unscrewed!
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9fingers

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Reply #12 on: October 16, 2018, 06:08:07 am
A common cause of this issue on older UCE bikes was a faulty sidestand nanny cutout switch which would intermittently cut the ignition power when the engine vibrated resulting in fouled plugs and missing.

The solution back then was to disconnect the sidestand cutout switch and remember to always put the side stand up.

Thanks GlennF, Arizoni explained how to do it, and yes, it has cut out entirely twice while riding, and putting it down and up got it running again. Not cool when it cuts out when cruising at 50mph.
9fingers
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