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Author Topic: Repair advice: steering stem, triple clamp, fork tubes  (Read 231 times)

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9fingers

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on: September 30, 2018, 10:55:41 am
HI, I put my bike back together yesterday and rode it for the first time since my July 26th crash from a deer taking out my front tire. As a reminder, the right footrest, rightside handlebar controls, front mudguard,  and the headlight trim rings and lens, were all damaged. And the most relevant to this request, one of the steering stem steering lock tabs was bent on the stem. So that part of the bike took a pretty good whack. SO, I rode it up and down my street and the handlebar/stem unit seems cocked to one side just a bit. The bars and bar clamp seem aimed to the right when I am going straight, not bad, but noticeable and annoying. The forks do not appear to be bent and the bars are straight. Am I right that that massive maroon (classic chrome maroon)  painted thing that also houses the headlight also functions as the top of the triple clamp? I don't see HOW it clamps on to the front forks. If I loosen the lower triple clamps from the fork tubes, and loosen that big nut that bolts to the top of the steering stem, does that free up the forks enough that I can grab the front wheel between my knees and twist the bars/front end back to straight position? Do I need to loosen the bolts that go into the top of the fork tubes? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks
9fingers
« Last Edit: September 30, 2018, 12:10:12 pm by 9fingers »
2016 Classic Chrome Maroon
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #1 on: September 30, 2018, 03:28:46 pm
  The forks thread into that big Maroon thing....  I'm thinking if the impact was bad enough to break your stop, the neck of the frame might be bent.
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


Bert Remington

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Reply #2 on: September 30, 2018, 04:37:50 pm
GHG -- this matches High on Octane observation (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,26504.msg303934.html#msg303934).

Just kinda peeking down the road a bit, do you know of any differences between the 2016 and 2010 C5 frames?  The 2010 C5 has the offset fork legs and probably an 18" front wheel (I'm asking the previous owner to confirm).  The previous owner said it it is a C5 with B5 badging due to supplier shortage.  I can get the VIN if needed.
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version
2000 BMW R1100RT


gashousegorilla

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Reply #3 on: September 30, 2018, 05:02:24 pm
 Yeah, for sure . Even minor damage to a frame and they will total it.   A scratch or slight dent in some frame tubing may be enough.   

  The 09's and 10's definitely had the front leading axle and the 18" wheel front and back.     It gets fuzzy around 11  or 12 with exactly when they went to the 19" front wheel and no offset axle... Mostly probably 12' though.   Both the early bikes and the newer ones  claim the same wheel base ... so  they must have adjusted the neck angle on the 12 and later bikes.    I HAVE measured the swing arm on a 12 bike , and I am remembering it to be the same length  as the earlier bikes.  So that is telling me most likely , all the geometry changes were done in the front end.

  Without a doubt Bert... If I were you?  I would take that 2010 motor and stick it in the 2016 frame.    The 18" wheeled bikes with the front leading axle handled like crap at high speed. They can be made to be good though... but if you have a 2016 frame ?   Why bother...

   I could be wrong... but that looks like a 18"  front wheel in that picture Bert.   It looks like a straight UP C-5, almost exactly the same as my 09' did when it was stock.     Except for the exhaust he has on there and the bars.   I don't see any B-5 in there .....
« Last Edit: September 30, 2018, 05:09:17 pm by gashousegorilla »
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


Bert Remington

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Reply #4 on: September 30, 2018, 05:14:04 pm
Thanks GHG but I was looking to provide 9fingers some options, not hijacking his thread.

But since we're here...  WRT to my trashed 2016 UCE (engine and transmission total loss, I didn't bother taking pictures) upgraded 2010 => 2016 is my plan.  Seller is shipping loose parts this week and I am arranging for motorcycle NC-to-CA shipment mid-Oct.  But bank account too dry for 2010 upgrades and I've learned my lesson -- replace the RE valve train probably with Hitchcocks p/n 90273 by Brian Crower in El Cajon.  Also other stuff but that's the most important. ;D  So maybe Summer 2019?
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version
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High On Octane

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Reply #5 on: October 04, 2018, 08:34:27 am
Sorry to hear the repairs didn't get it completely taken care of.  I'm on board with GHG, definitely sounds like the frame is tweaked and should be replaced.  But, it sounds like Bert has provided you with an excellent option.

I have shipped a few bikes around the country and the last 2 times I think I paid $350.  Just a frame should be much cheaper.  So, that may not be a bad route to go.
Or....  ROAD TRIP!!!!!   ;D

And FWIW, I wouldn't trust those forks being true anymore.  You may want to source some replacements of those as well.
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


Bert Remington

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Reply #6 on: October 04, 2018, 11:33:30 am
 >:( I just happen to have an entire 2010 C5 sans UCE which will be upgraded and replace my trashed UCE.  Its currently in NC but getting ready to ship to CA.

Hopefully 9fingers's damage is limited to fork stem and nothing beyond.  But he can have the 2010 parts if he needs them.

GHG, HOO -- could you provide measurements, etc baseline for 9fingers to diagnose from.
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version
2000 BMW R1100RT


gashousegorilla

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Reply #7 on: October 04, 2018, 09:23:20 pm
  I can if he needs them.    I think it's a good idea to just take that whole front end apart and inspect everything though.  Look for anything that's obviously bent.  The neck of the frame, the stem that goes through the neck, the lower triple tree, the legs.  Inspect the bearings and etc and etc. 
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.