Author Topic: '14 Continental GT Documentation: Sacramento, CA  (Read 3409 times)

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boogieman065

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on: December 11, 2018, 05:46:25 pm
I picked it up last night! The history is not great. It only had 10.9 miles when I test rode it. I test rode it for 2 miles, up to 60MPH. Mechanically, it felt sound. There are tons of parts on it that'll need loving. It was a new bike that was towed, sat on the towing yard for a few years in California, and then sold off at an auction. I bought it from the person/dealer that won the bid. It only needed a battery and a key to get it up and running! It'll get the 300 mile service soon.

Riding impression:
I've owned 10 bikes over the past 12 years prior to this, from Suzuki GS500E standards, to KTM 690SMC, to a track ready Aprilia RSV4. Right now the RS CGT shares the garage with a 2010 RSV4 Factory and a 2015 KTM RC390.

I would say the CGT's motor is actually quite smooth! Yes, it's a big(ish) thumper, but those who have been on dirtbikes and supermotos will find the vibration easy to live with. The mirrors, like many reviewers stated, are useless over 40MPH due to their poor vibration dampening.

Handling is a delight! It tips in easily, and is calm and compliant. The braking on the Brembo brakes is amazing. They provide excellent feel (on 4 year old brake fluids, none the less) and inspire confidence.

Looks and quality are the biggest downfall for this particular bike right now. I'm a bit disappointed to see how it has held up to the elements, being so new. The red paint is in amazing condition, but all the other metal bits seem to have succumb to corrosion of some form. Luckily most of it not permanent. Maybe this is just a concern because I've never had so much chrome and uncoated metals on my past bikes?

I've changed my direction after just 2 rides on this bike and seeing the video of it on the track. I want to primarily keep it a downtown commuter, with the capability of riding on a small track (using it as a beginner group coaching bike). I want it to turn heads on coffee shop runs, but have that performance, comfort, and reliability!

I intend to use this thread to document that. If I can figure out how to post pictures...

Well, I have a lot more questions now!

1. How do I increase the idle speed? I've only ridden it in the cold, but at 1,050-1,100 idle, it seems to stall rather easily. All my past 10 bikes idled between 1,300-1,500, including old thumpers and twin. I'm looking to bump it up until the warmer months.

2. There are black rubber/plastic fittings on the fins of the head. What are those? Why are they there? Can I remove them?

3. Rust. Rust everywhere! I'm going to do the diet coke/aluminum foil trick to remove them and seal the polish with a top coat synthetic sealant. How do you guys clean those up and seal them?

4. The 4 valve cover bolts have black rubber seals that seem to have deteriorated and cracked. Anyone know a good place to order small misc OEM/aftermarket parts?

5. Can you switch the shifting to GP? Seems like the clutch cover may protrude too far for the shift rod to clear...

6. When you put the clip-ons below the top clamp, what's securing it from spinning on the fork tube? Does that hole go all the way through the top clamp, allowing you to put the securing bolt through?
« Last Edit: December 11, 2018, 11:04:13 pm by boogieman065 »


hpwaco

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Reply #1 on: December 11, 2018, 10:01:46 pm
Start using the SEARCH FUNCTION.  You will find the answers to a lot of your questions there.

Order OEM parts from our host : RE of FT WORTH.

There are 2 types of rocker cover " seals "  and part numbers.   3 of one kind and 1 of the other on the   engine.   I believe ACE has previously stated that the bolts bottom out before squashing the seals.

The rubber / plastic thingies on the fins are noise dampeners to cut down on ringing for environmntal testing.  Remove if you want.  I didn't like the look and they were gone almost immediately.

Idle is easy to adjust.   Lift up rear of tank and look for large brass recessed screw facing straight up.  Don't turn anything else!!!

You'll probably be getting a number of helpful duplicate responses.

Enjoy your new ride.  Its definitely unique.  A shame its been discontinued.


gizzo

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Reply #2 on: December 11, 2018, 10:21:00 pm
Congrats again. $2.5k is a steal.
I should have kept a list somewhere of all the things I had to do to my '14 CGT when it was new. So much work. But a lot of that was down to useless dealer prep and yours might not be like it.
 
Like hpwaco said, search the CGT forum. The early days of the list had a LOT of info on the new (then) GT's issues. Hopefully it's still there and didn't get lost in the migration to the new format.

 The recessed brass screw he mentioned is in the top of the throttle body. It's a pain to get to.

While the tank's off, replace the rubber fuel hose with a new one, but a heap longer, so it has a bit of a loop back towards the seat area. The stock hose is known for having a kink, starving the engine. The rubber's shit quality anyway and it's probably perished by now. Change the small rubber water drain hose on the tank, too.
While the tank is still off, make some spacers (1/2" thick is a good place to start) for the rear tank mounts. Dunno how prevalent this is but in my case the wiring harness on the frame spine rubbed through on the tank and blew a few fuel pump fuses before I found the cause.

Maybe put a zip tie around the computer. The rubber holder thing is rubbish.

Those rocker box seals look like hell but they seem to work ok, don't stress about them. They just weep a tiny bit over time. I can't remember anyone saying they had oil gushing out.

The stalling thing is normal on the early bikes. A fuel controller is the fix. Mine's a PowerCommander but there's other options available now.

Read up on how to check the oil level. It's an art.

Headstem bearings might not be adjusted properly and the ring nuts might be loose. Keep an eye on them. I bought a couple of shock adjusting C spanners from ebay.

I hope the rust cleans up. Mine had a few spots coming out on the headlight ring but Autosol got rid of it and hasn't come back.

I love the GT. It's a fun ride and makes people look twice when the see one on tour, interstate.

How's the RSV4? I had an old Mille a few years ago. That was a fast bike but damn it used some fuel.
« Last Edit: December 11, 2018, 10:25:42 pm by gizzo »
simon from south Australia
Continental GT
Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


boogieman065

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Reply #3 on: December 11, 2018, 11:02:52 pm
Thank you! Both of you. I will work on the tank and lines this week. I'm working to remove the rust/chain clean up today.


hpwaco

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Reply #4 on: December 12, 2018, 07:56:15 pm
What's the manufacture date of your gt?  Mine is March 2014.

Sorry, didn't think to mention the fuel line kink.  I got a 90 degree brass barb and put it in the middle of 2 pieces of new fuel line.

CAUTION WITH THE QUICK DISCONNECT ON THE  FUEL PUMP OUTLET!   Its plastic,  easily broken requiring purchase on an expensive fuel pump.

When removing the tank don't forget to disconnect the fuel level sender wire.

Something else to be aware of is the side stand switch.   It can be intermittent when riding causing engine to die.    Mine was the opposite - wouldn't shut the engine off when stand put down.

And check the crankcase breather hose - mine disintergrated after about 4 months.

Also NGK spark plug at $3 is a good idea.


boogieman065

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Reply #5 on: December 14, 2018, 12:41:18 am
I took care of the fuel line and overflow lines yesterday. I also put a 1/4 inch spacer on the rear of the tank to prevent electrical wires being pinched.

Disconnected the kickstand Killswitch.

Lowered the front clip on. I'm much more comfortable on it now.

Ordered a bullet 500 shifter which mounts directly to the motor. This will allow me to run it GP shift (I'm just used to it)

The headlight went out on me. I ordered both an OEM style and dayamaker style. I know it's not period correct, but I'll see which one I like more.


I'm looking for more clearance! I'm dragging hardware while turning lol.


gizzo

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Reply #6 on: December 14, 2018, 03:37:38 am
Haha you're getting stuck into it already! Sidestand mounting thing on the frame decks moderately easily, I'd chop it off if it  weren't so handy.  Exhaust pipe on the other side. I never got the hero blobs down before the ends of the pegs snapped off.
If you got the clip-ons down there, can you drop the forks a bit to get more ground clearance? I haven't looked that hard.
simon from south Australia
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C90
GSX250E


Bert Remington

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Reply #7 on: December 14, 2018, 05:07:56 pm
boogieman065 -- here's a third candidate: https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,25794.msg306988.html#msg306988

Too bad you are in CA because I have a 2010 C5 1,885 miles available for $1,000 in Wake Forest, NC that would be a good fit for an upright stance teaching bike.  But it won't be CA emissions compliant until 7,500 miles or January 2020.
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Richard230

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Reply #8 on: December 14, 2018, 10:27:33 pm
boogieman065 -- here's a third candidate: https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,25794.msg306988.html#msg306988

Too bad you are in CA because I have a 2010 C5 1,885 miles available for $1,000 in Wake Forest, NC that would be a good fit for an upright stance teaching bike.  But it won't be CA emissions compliant until 7,500 miles or January 2020.

 I have a friend who bought a motorcycle that was located in Florida and didn't have enough miles on the clock to make the CA DMV happy. He shipped it to his home in California and then hooked the up speedometer cable to an electric drill and let it run at 100 mph for a couple of days until the magic number had been reached.  ;)
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boogieman065

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Reply #9 on: December 14, 2018, 11:31:53 pm
My low beam went out, so I went for the HD style daybreaker. Not going to be most popular mod on here... About 1 hour of cutting, grinding, and bending.

Took a ride to work during dawn. Really amazing output and cut off line. They're properly projected onto the road without blinding out her driver's, but lights up the path well. The low voltage warning doesn't come on anymore because this uses less voltage. Less power, more light, more life.... That's a big win if you don't mind the look and the work!

5-3/4 5.75 Inch Projector LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETNZD6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


KD5ITM

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Reply #10 on: December 16, 2018, 08:38:49 pm
Did the biker come with the owner's manual? If so follow the break in process to a T. If you want to have a nice running bike with not a lot of issues, follow the break in process. I know it's a bit tedious with how many miles they want you to ride at a certain speeds but in the long run it's definitely worth it. The more miles you put on the bike the smoother it'll get and the less stalling you'll have. When starting it  with a cold engine,  hold the choke lever on the left hand controls  infer about  thirty seconds to allow the bike  idle to settle down .  Holding the lever in will raise the RPMs up a few hundred . After you put about 500 miles on it I would strongly suggest getting the Power Commander 5 installed along with the K&N filter and a free flow Muffler. The bike will gain some extra power and be a bit more noticeable when riding. My 2014 this past year started to have stalling issues when idling or accelerating from a stop light. I added across the board from 750 RPMs all the way up to 4500 RPMs 10% fuel on the fuel map that comes with the power commander. The stalling issues have stopped and the bike seems to have just a bit more pep.

A lot of the 2014's have predetonation issues. It was highly recommended to me to ride with RPMs above 3000. If you're in first gear riding through your neighborhood, keep the RPMs at least at 3,000.

And also with some of the 2014, the fuel line coming from the fuel pump has a kink in it which can restrict the flow of fuel to the motor. My 2014 didn't have a kink in the hose but it is reported that a lot of the 14s had this issue.

I think everybody on this form would agree, get rid of the stock spark plug and go with an NGK plug. I have to go look in my service records to see what spark plug it is but you can definitely ask and find the answer on the Forum here. The stock spark plug is just a cheap Indian made Bosch plug. The NGK is a lot more reliable.

I would change the oil at 100 miles and then 300 miles and then 600 and then at 1000-1200 miles. And then from there because I live in Houston where it's extremely hot 9 months out of the year, I'll end up changing my oil about every 2000 miles. These Royal Enfield engines are not refined at the factory. In other words, as the engine is being driven it refines itself. So it will be very common on the first several oil changes to find bits of metal shavings on the magnetic portion of the drain plug. And because the engines are refining themself as you ride, that leads to Royal Enfield putting a pretty strict break in process and what speeds and throttle positions they don't want you to exceed for a certain amount of miles.

I've got roughly 8,000 miles on my 14. And other than installing issue which I've seemed to have fixed with adding fuel to the fuel map, I haven't had too many issues. I ride my GT between 3000 and 4000 RPMs. On a rare occasion I'll bring it up to 4500 RPMs but usually around 4,000 I'm shifting which the bike seems to be pretty happy with that. I would also obtain a torque spec sheet for every nut and bolt and go over the bike Bumper to Bumper making sure all nuts and bolts are torque. You'll be surprised with how many you find that come from the factory that aren't torque to spec. Engine mount bolts, shock mount Bolts Etc on my bike were all below the torque spec. Bar end mirrors are much better than the stock mirrors and also cut down on some of the vibration on the handlebars. The upgraded 7-inch headlight is a must if you're going to do any night riding. When I did my stage 1 performance addition, (the Power Commander, K&N filter and free flow Muffler,) I got the stainless steel Muffler and header pipe from Hitchcock's. They're located in England and a specialized in Royal Enfield Motorcycles. The shipping cost to the states is a bit pricey but their products are much better than the Indian made stuff you find on the Royal Enfield website, and they offer a ton of aftermarket bits and pieces and performance add ons.. The stainless steel header Pipe & Muffler, I don't remember the company that makes them for Hitchcock's. It starts with an M. Very good quality product with a superb sound. I do recommend wearing latex gloves when installing so you don't get the oils from your hands on the header pipe. Which will cause the piper to discolor when it gets hot.

These bikes have a lot of quality control issues but if you are somewhat mechanically inclined, you can work your way through most of them. Some bikes have had mechanical issues that were Factory related issues but for the most part, ride the bike sensibly and know what it does and what it won't do. Don't hot rod it like you would a Harley and it should last for a very long time.

While in the break in process, after about 30 minutes of riding time pull over and let the bike rest for about 10 minutes. As you go through the different stages of the breaking process you'll be able to ride further time without having to stop to let the bike rest and cool off for a few minutes. Even today, with my bike having close to 8,000 miles on it, I still pull over after about an hour's worth of consistent riding, just to let the engine have a little bit of a rest. It's not so bad in the winter months when the air temperature is cooler but during the summer when the air temperature is 95 + and the asphalt temperature is 130 +, it does play a toll on an air-cooled engine which makes it have to work harder.

As far as engine oil, I use Castrol actevo 50 W 20. As you read through this form you'll see a lot of people have different opinions of oil. The Castrol actevo oil is specifically designed for air cooled engines. And plus, you really can't go wrong with Castrol oil. On the bottom of the engine where the oil filter screen flange is, it's pretty normal to have a drip of oil on one of the mounting bolts after each ride. I usually keep an eye on the oil level window when the bike is idling and at operating temperature and on the engine stand on level ground. Every now and then I'll top it off with just a tad bit of oil.

As far as the idle speed, there is a idle speed adjustment screw on the throttle body. My bike cold usually idles around 900 and then after about 10 minutes of warming up the RPMs will be up around 1,100. That's pretty normal. I would definitely recommend letting the bike warm up for 8 to 10 minutes before hopping on it to take off.

Keep in mind that the stock bike only has about 30 horse. I think Ace mentioned in one topic a couple years ago that at 3500 RPMs you're only doing about 19 horse. Power Commander and filter and Muffler upgrades will add about 4 to 5 horsepower. Just keep in mind if you do any Highway riding at highway speed, 70 miles an hour is all you're going to pretty much get out of it. Trying to get more speed would be like asking a galloping horse to run faster. I usually keep mine when I'm on the highway around 60 to 62 miles an hour unless I have a decent tail wind which will allow me to get up to 65. But other than that, 60 to about 62 miles is where I keep the bike. And the bike has always seemed to be quite happy. If I'm going to do many miles, I'll try to stay away from prolonged highway speeds, I'll try to find some back roads where I can vary the speed from time to time and not just push it full out for mile on end.

Just keep in mind, the Royal Enfield Continental GT is not a Japanese bike where you can hop on it straight from the show room and hit the freeway at 120 miles an hour. These bikes need a little TLC but in the long run, you'll have a much happier bike.

The stock Muffler is quite weighty. The Hitchcock's stainless steel free flow Muffler is much lighter. I would recommend also replacing the stock battery when the time comes to a decent lithium battery which will also be a lot lighter than the heavy lead acid battery that comes with the bike. Other than the the stage 1 Performance Kit, my bike is very much stock. Replacing the heavy stock Muffler and Battery to a much lighter free flow Muffler and lithium battery well how about the power to weight ratio. Hitchcock's also sells 1/2 Fairing and a full fairing that are designed after the Retro looking fairings. I don't have one on my bike yet but I've heard that it helps with the aerodynamics and the top end speed. And plus it just looks cool as all get-out. As if the stock looking bike wasn't cool enough.

Expect to get a lot of head Turners and people asking you questions. I've been down the freeway at 60 miles an hour and had a guy hanging halfway out of his driver side window to tell me how cool my bike looked. I'll be at a coffee shop and someone will ask me if it's an old Ducati or Harley. It's funny how people stand right next to it and stare at it and then ask you who makes it. As if they couldn't figure out from the large Royal Enfield decal on the tank. Or they'll ask you what is a Royal Enfield or they'll be surprised that it's a 2014 and not a 60s era Cafe bike. But once in a while you'll run a cost somebody that knows their Cafe bikes and you'll be able to have a decent conversation with them. It's very rare that I take a ride on my GT and don't get somebody commenting on it or giving me the thumbs up.

My bike has been garage kept all of its life. Never ridden in the rain. I've got several show cars so I've got a lot of high-end detailing stuff. I've never had to wash my bike. I just keep it detailed before and after each ride and it still looks like it was sitting on the showroom floor yesterday. The black rubber pieces on the fins, you can remove those. At certain RPMs the bike will create a bit of a harmonic vibration which will cause the fins to have a little bit of a sing to them. I took mine off around 2,000 miles and haven't noticed any issues or heard any of the vibrating sing. The Rocker valve cover bolts with the rubber washer mounts, I'm sure they can be sourced out through the Royal Enfield website or a Royal Enfield dealer. Mine are a little bit cracked and weathered. Mostly due to the heat of the engine. The frame was designed at Harrah's performance in England which is a high-end Performance Shop. The frame is actually quite rugged and will handle pretty much any amount of horsepower you can throw out the bike. But I'm sure they're being built to Harrah's specs at the Royal Enfield plant in India. I'm sure the steel is not extreme good quality and if left in the elements for its whole life would create a lot of rust issues. These bikes are pretty simple in design. If you wanted to take on a winter project, you could always strip the frame and send it off to be sandblasted and powder-coated. The Chrome on the headlight and header Pipe & Muffler isn't of good quality. It looks like they used dirty thanks and dirty chemicals when they were dipping the Chrome and possibly didn't prep the metal properly before being chromed.  A lot of people complain about the vibration issues. I would never describe my vibration issues to the extreme as so many people do. But then again, I'm sure the vibrating issues are much worse at 5000 RPMs than they are at 4000.

The Power Commander 5 is highly recommended by Ace, these bikes come extremely lean from the factory. Since they're being exported into the country the Factory sets the feel to be very lean to help with emissions. A lean engine will run hotter which is not good for an engine that's already going to run hot. It kills the performance and will cause the bike to have stalling issues. The stock map that comes with a power commander has fuel added at various points across the throttle position and RPM over the stock bike settings. A lot of guys have customized there map and timing map to get best performance. I would suggest leaving the stock timing map the way it is unless you have access to a dino where you can monitor the timing on a computer. I added 10%. The board from 750 RPMs all the way up to 4,500. The bike seems to run what's a bit more pep and my stalling issues on idle and pulling away from a stop light have gone away. There is Honda dealer here in the Houston area that will allow five passes on a Dyno for 300 bucks. They'll be able to fine-tune the timing and fuel. Something I plan on doing here in the springtime. So, installing the Power Commander with the stock map that comes with it will be a big improvement over the stock fuel settings that come from Royal Enfield.

Have fun with the GT. Remember it's not a Japanese bike but even though, you can still have plenty of fun with it and enjoy the bike for what it is. And you'll definitely turn some heads when you show up to your local bike night.
2014 Continental GT 535
1979 Hurst/Olds W-30 “R” code
1967 Oldsmobile 442 W-30
1964 Volvo B18 544 Sport
1961 Willys Jeep Wagon


KD5ITM

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Reply #11 on: December 16, 2018, 10:30:40 pm
One other thing I forgot to mention, someone else noted earlier in this post that the fuel pump is expensive. On your fuel gauge, when you get to two squares left, that would be a good idea to get fuel. So you don't prematurely run the tank dry and burn out the fuel pump.

The second thing I forgot to mention, there were quite a few post on here early on several years ago where people were experiencing the rubber hose Inlet going from the air box to the throttle body coming disconnected and causing the bike to stall. There's two hose clamps on either end of the rubber hose. Make sure those are nice and tight

There is quite a few modifications you can do to the air box which will allow the bike to be much more responsive on acceleration. Ace would be the guy on this form talk about the modifications. Ace is also designing new cylinder heads that will allow much better performance.

Like I mentioned in my first post, Hitchcock's offers a lot of performance goodies. Performance cams, performance valves and piston Etc. I believe they offer two different kits depending on how far you want to go with engine modifications.

Another thing that would go along with what I mentioned earlier about twerking all the nuts and bolt, blue Loctite is going to be your friend. It will allow the bolts to stay tight without coming loose but also will allow you to remove them if necessary. Don't use red Loctite. About every 2000 Miles when I do my oil change I go over the bike and check the engine mount bolts and the shock bolts and the axle bolts to make sure everything is nice and torqued to spec. Usually everything is still nice and tight.
2014 Continental GT 535
1979 Hurst/Olds W-30 “R” code
1967 Oldsmobile 442 W-30
1964 Volvo B18 544 Sport
1961 Willys Jeep Wagon


Bert Remington

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Reply #12 on: December 17, 2018, 02:38:24 am
Spark plug -- NGK BPR6ES (specifically 7131)

Oil change fasteners -- allow engine to cool to room temperature before tightening and use a torque wrench

Chain clean/lubricate -- 500 miles

Many short heat cycles help valve-to-seat sealing.

Concur with lithium battery.  Also upgrade battery-to-starter wiring gauge.

Rather than $300 for a one-time dealer mapping, purchase an Autotune AT-200 add-on for your PC V.  Upside is continuous closed-loop AFR mapping.  Downside is converting your 12mm narrowband bung to 18mm wideband bung.  And I just happen to have an extra new AT-200 available for $200.

Even though you have the 535cc UCE, contact GasHouseGorilla about the applicability of his 10.5-to-1 ratio domed piston plus valves, springs, etc improvements to stock head that Narada and I are using for our 500cc UCEs.  Also ask him about the twin-fin intake manifold.

Replace tubes with proper size because RE installs oversize tubes that crease and leak air.

Drain and replace fork oil with Bel Ray 10W or 15W.

I found my C5 shocks to be unbearably stiff; don't know about CGT.  If you've got the $$$s consider Ikons from our CMW host.

I am looking forward to viewing KD5ITM's video of him twerking his nuts and bolts. :D
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KD5ITM

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Reply #13 on: December 17, 2018, 03:26:37 am
I charge extra for the videos.
2014 Continental GT 535
1979 Hurst/Olds W-30 “R” code
1967 Oldsmobile 442 W-30
1964 Volvo B18 544 Sport
1961 Willys Jeep Wagon