Author Topic: Technical support reflashing ECU  (Read 5373 times)

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KD5ITM

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on: September 18, 2018, 01:32:14 am
Who would I get ahold of at Royal Enfield North America that would have a definite answer as to what is causing the stalling issues on idle and when cracking the throttle. To my understanding at one point a year or so ago there was at one point a year or so ago there was a TBS, technical bulletin Service Announcement saying that there was new software that can be downloaded to correct the ECU and the stalling problem. I'm at the point where I am beyond fed up with my bike stalling several times on a regular basis during the warm-up idle process and when cracking the throttle to take off from a stop sign or stop light, or when downshifting and in the process of releasing the clutch and rolling on the throttle, the bike will stall and then your freewheeling down the road hoping it will start again before you're forced to pull over to the side of the road. My Continental GT is a wonderful bike when you're cruising down the road. But when your idling on a cold idle or even at a stoplight  20 miles into your ride or cracking the throttle to take off from a stop light the bike wants to stall. Sometimes when it's a cold idle in the warm up the process it will spit and sputter and hesitate until it stalls. Other times it just acts like somebody turn the key off. If there is a fix for this I need to know what the fix is. The Royal Enfield dealer here in Houston has no clue about reflashing the ECU. They didn't even know there was a stalling issue on the Continental GT s. Heck, they couldn't even figure out how to use the headlight switch to turn the headlight on when I went to get my safety inspection done. It takes them 30 minutes to figure out what the part number is for the oil filter kit. In other words, when it comes to the Royal Enfield, my local Houston dealer is stuck in the Stone Age. That's why I need somebody who not just heard it through the grapevine that there possibly could be maybe a fix, but somebody who actually knows definitely that there is or isn't and if so how to go about getting it fixed.
2014 Continental GT 535
1979 Hurst/Olds W-30 “R” code
1967 Oldsmobile 442 W-30
1964 Volvo B18 544 Sport
1961 Willys Jeep Wagon


Paul_42

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Reply #1 on: September 20, 2018, 06:52:17 am
Mate, take a read of the power commander threads, I went race dynamics and regret it as it doesn't have the numbers on the forum for,trouble shooting like the pc5 has. But my stalling is almost non existent.
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gizzo

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Reply #2 on: September 21, 2018, 06:46:17 am
In one post you say you have the stage 1 performance kit and in another you want to reflash the ecu.  Stage 1 comes with PC  V. So which is it? If you've got a pipe and air cleaner, obvs the tune won't be optimal.  If you have the kit, the PC should take care of the stalling. 
simon from south Australia
Continental GT
Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


Bert Remington

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Reply #3 on: September 21, 2018, 11:06:41 pm
KD5ITM -- if you want to experiment, I will be able to send you a 2016 CA or 2010 C5 ECU in a week or two.  And I have an AT-200 on hand.  Please PM if interested.
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #4 on: September 22, 2018, 12:07:05 am
Who would I get ahold of at Royal Enfield North America that would have a definite answer as to what is causing the stalling issues on idle and when cracking the throttle. To my understanding at one point a year or so ago there was at one point a year or so ago there was a TBS, technical bulletin Service Announcement saying that there was new software that can be downloaded to correct the ECU and the stalling problem. I'm at the point where I am beyond fed up with my bike stalling several times on a regular basis during the warm-up idle process and when cracking the throttle to take off from a stop sign or stop light, or when downshifting and in the process of releasing the clutch and rolling on the throttle, the bike will stall and then your freewheeling down the road hoping it will start again before you're forced to pull over to the side of the road. My Continental GT is a wonderful bike when you're cruising down the road. But when your idling on a cold idle or even at a stoplight  20 miles into your ride or cracking the throttle to take off from a stop light the bike wants to stall. Sometimes when it's a cold idle in the warm up the process it will spit and sputter and hesitate until it stalls. Other times it just acts like somebody turn the key off. If there is a fix for this I need to know what the fix is. The Royal Enfield dealer here in Houston has no clue about reflashing the ECU. They didn't even know there was a stalling issue on the Continental GT s. Heck, they couldn't even figure out how to use the headlight switch to turn the headlight on when I went to get my safety inspection done. It takes them 30 minutes to figure out what the part number is for the oil filter kit. In other words, when it comes to the Royal Enfield, my local Houston dealer is stuck in the Stone Age. That's why I need somebody who not just heard it through the grapevine that there possibly could be maybe a fix, but somebody who actually knows definitely that there is or isn't and if so how to go about getting it fixed.

   They reprogrammed the stock ECU's on the bikes in June of '14.    I'd take a look at the plate on your frame ,and see when it was made.... If before that ?    I would tell the dealer to research a little harder...
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


KD5ITM

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Reply #5 on: September 29, 2018, 10:18:38 pm
Okay I'll take a look at the ID plate.

Just by any chance, could the bike be running too lean even with the stock Power Commander V map installed? The only changes I've made to the map on the fuel side is I added 4% fuel at idle. Does the stock Power Commander V fuel map I had enough fuel to compensate the use of the free flow silencer?

I know a shop here locally in Houston that has a Dino and is very familiar with the power commander V and said they would be glad it to run 5 polls on the dyno and adjust the fuel in timing, but it's a bit pricey so I'm holding off for now. I'm sure if you Dyno runs would make a big difference.
2014 Continental GT 535
1979 Hurst/Olds W-30 “R” code
1967 Oldsmobile 442 W-30
1964 Volvo B18 544 Sport
1961 Willys Jeep Wagon


Bert Remington

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Reply #6 on: September 30, 2018, 12:13:54 am
Turns out I have an extra AT-200 for less than a dyno tune (my tuner wants $400).  Check with GHG on his thoughts regarding the closed loop benefits.
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod


KD5ITM

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Reply #7 on: September 30, 2018, 02:19:08 am
My tuner wants 300 four five passes. My bike was built June 2014. I have been playing with the fuel map, I'm thinking that my GT is running lean. Took it from 0% to fuel at 0% throttle from 750 RPM up to 1250 rpm. Added 12% fuel in those RPM ranges at 0% period on a cold idle the bike still wants to stumble quite a bit but didn't stumble to the point where it was on the verge of stalling. I'll mess with it more tomorrow afternoon. But the fact they did install on my last cold idle when it had several opportunities to seems to be a positive step. But we'll see you tomorrow if it was just a coincidence.
2014 Continental GT 535
1979 Hurst/Olds W-30 “R” code
1967 Oldsmobile 442 W-30
1964 Volvo B18 544 Sport
1961 Willys Jeep Wagon


gizzo

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Reply #8 on: September 30, 2018, 07:40:44 am
300 is probably good value if they can get a great result with those 5 pulls. Maybe it's smart to do all the mods you need before having the tune done, so you only have to do it once?
simon from south Australia
Continental GT
Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


KD5ITM

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Reply #9 on: September 30, 2018, 09:53:09 pm
Yeah 300 sounds good when that's the only Dino I know if you're in town or I'm able to have access for it. I know for a fact that with a good experience tuner, the fuel map and the timing map could be perfected. But that $300 is just have to wait for a little bit. Just trying to make the bike a bit more rideable until then. Really, just trying to keep the bike from stalling two or three times before I leave the parking lot.
2014 Continental GT 535
1979 Hurst/Olds W-30 “R” code
1967 Oldsmobile 442 W-30
1964 Volvo B18 544 Sport
1961 Willys Jeep Wagon


gashousegorilla

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Reply #10 on: September 30, 2018, 11:21:13 pm
Okay I'll take a look at the ID plate.

Just by any chance, could the bike be running too lean even with the stock Power Commander V map installed? The only changes I've made to the map on the fuel side is I added 4% fuel at idle. Does the stock Power Commander V fuel map I had enough fuel to compensate the use of the free flow silencer?

I know a shop here locally in Houston that has a Dino and is very familiar with the power commander V and said they would be glad it to run 5 polls on the dyno and adjust the fuel in timing, but it's a bit pricey so I'm holding off for now. I'm sure if you Dyno runs would make a big difference.

  See if you can get the part number off of that ECU... Your right on the cusp.

 If you are not familiar with tuning or don't want to do it.  By far your best bet is going to be taking it to that Dyno shop and have hem tune it for you.   And make sure  they pay close attention to the start up and idle area's.  Especially cold starts.      It could also be running too rich down there, instead of too lean.  From what I have found with the 500's... when changes are made,  things are too rich down there at idle and start up.     I bet your too rich... especially if you are adding fuel and it ain't getting better.
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


Bert Remington

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Reply #11 on: September 30, 2018, 11:37:18 pm
GHG -- heads up that I pointed KD5ITM in your direction WRT possible use of Autotune AT-200.  Unlike my sea level to mountain commute it looks like Spring TX might only need the one professional tune but still I think the AT-200 is worth considering.  Plus I'm trying to sell my extra. :-[
2016 RE Classic 500 CA version Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod


Jako

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Reply #12 on: October 01, 2018, 02:05:47 pm
This is on my long To-do list,  cheap DIY dyno  https://youtu.be/XUX_YWsECWs
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #13 on: October 02, 2018, 12:40:46 am
GHG -- heads up that I pointed KD5ITM in your direction WRT possible use of Autotune AT-200.  Unlike my sea level to mountain commute it looks like Spring TX might only need the one professional tune but still I think the AT-200 is worth considering.  Plus I'm trying to sell my extra. :-[

 Hey, without a doubt Bert .  That Auto tune is the way to go .  A guy could go broke REAL quick running to the Dyno every time he wants to do a little tuning on his bike  !   :o       And a guy could leave his range of adjustment at about 20%, and let that thing self adjust and compensate from down there at sea level and up into them hills ?  Hell ?.... and even take it with you if you sell the bike and stick on the new one !  ;D ;)
An thaibhsí atá rattling ag an doras agus tá sé an diabhal sa chathaoir.


KD5ITM

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Reply #14 on: October 08, 2018, 03:19:41 am
I added 12% funeral over the stock Power Commander V map. 750 RPM to 1250 RPM cold idle to warm idle range. So far, the bike hasn't stalled when warming up from a cold start. The idle seems to be smoother. It still has a miss here and there but is not spitting and sputtering and choking to the point where it's stalling several times. I've only done two very short rides with it. Hoping sometime this week I can commute to and from work with it and see how it does at the stop lights and stop signs.
2014 Continental GT 535
1979 Hurst/Olds W-30 “R” code
1967 Oldsmobile 442 W-30
1964 Volvo B18 544 Sport
1961 Willys Jeep Wagon


gizzo

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Reply #15 on: October 08, 2018, 07:04:06 am
12% funeral, eh? That should stop it dying......
simon from south Australia
Continental GT
Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


KD5ITM

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Reply #16 on: December 17, 2018, 03:33:05 am
Yes, after a month and a half or so with the 12% added oh, I have not had any stalling issues on Idol or when accelerating from a stop light. I've added 10% more fuel across the board up to 4500 RPMs and the bike seems to handle it quite nicely. My fuel mileage dropped slightly which is to be expected. But overall performance, the bike seems to handle the added fuel quite nicely with a bit more Pepe. Sometime in the spring I plan on having one of the local Honda dealers do five passes on a dyno to fine-tune the timing and fuel for past performance. But for now, the embarrassment of the bike stalling three or four times before I can even leave a Starbucks parking lot seems to have gone away. On that cold warm up idle, the bike still has a few hit and misses here and there but we're before it would have stalled, now it seems to pull through it and keep on idling.
2014 Continental GT 535
1979 Hurst/Olds W-30 “R” code
1967 Oldsmobile 442 W-30
1964 Volvo B18 544 Sport
1961 Willys Jeep Wagon