[erob123]

I'm trying to understand the clutch cable adjusters.  They adjust the ends of the outer cable housing and how does this affect the inner cable.  Just replaced clutch cable and shifting has changed.  I have to tweak shift lever up to get it to cahnge or downshift.  It don't make no sense that the adjusters affect the inner cable and only affects the outer cable.  Thanks, Eric

[PhilJ]

Whoa, Eric, help me understand. Downshifting is going from say second to first. Your saying you have to push the shift lever up to get into first. Is all of this from neutral?

Phil

[erob123]

I know it sounds weird but after I got the bike downshifting was that when I pushed down there was no action.  Got in the habit of lightly lifting shift lever up to put it in position to shift.  I don't know how to really explain.  But when I do this its like I'm putting it in the shift position.  Its like I've got slop or its not returning to shift to next gear when down shifting.  Now that I replaced the cable I have to do when going from 2 nd to 3rd on take off.  Again its tuff to explain.  Its like lifting lever to get it to the next gear shift slot, like I said real weird.  But how bout the adjusters, how does adjusting ends of outer cable affect the inner cable?

[Chasfield]

erob123

Bowden cables, like your clutch cable, work on the law of the lever.

Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated, steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed.

The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.


I hope this helps.

Chas

[PhilJ]

Eric, I'm not that mechanical as Chasfeild and didn't follow exactly his thoughts. However, I think he means you need to refine your cable adjustment. In addition to the handle bar and the entrance to the transmission, there's another adjustment behind the inspection  slot just above the kick lever. I'm not sure how to describe it. It's a rod that goes to the clutch that I suspect determines how the clutch responds to the actions of the cable. If that makes sense. If you have the CMW workshop manual there is a section describing the adjustment. If indeed that could be the problem.

[Chasfield]

PhilJ

I think I got a bit carried away.

Perhaps if erob123 thinks of the two extreme cases:

1) Clutch cable adjusters wound too far in:
This leaves you with more cable inner than is needed. Clutch lever movement is wasted winding in that slack, so the clutch doesn't lift enough. This gives a dragging condition and makes gears hard to shift.

2) Clutch cable adjusters wound too far out:
Inner cable is getting a bit short for the outer. No slack in the inner cable, so the clutch release mechanism stays partially loaded even when lever is released. Gear shifting will be good but the clutch may slip and the clutch release bearing will get hot from being constantly loaded.

As PhilJ points out, there is the further complication of the clutch push rod screw adjuster under the inspection plate. This needs to be set out far enough so that the push rod isn't still under pressure when the lever/cable is released. If it is set out too far, the actuator leaver under the gearbox cover runs out of movement before the clutch is fully released. I know this because I spent some time chasing the push rod adjustment around with the cable adjusters until I worked out what was going on.

[erob123]

I adjusted the ferrule(threaded tube) at the gearbox.  Seems to be right but I have this slop problem when I shift.  Went today after adjust.  Shift 1st and 2 nd OK but lift shift lever for for and it seems to miss or top out, but move with my foot down alittle and it seems to get in shift position.  Then I can put in third.  Crazy.  What puts the shift lever in position for for either next upshift or downshift?  Upshift has been fine until now and downshift has been weird.  Lift alittle on lever and then downmshift.  Its a bitch to explain.  Going to Austin next weeekend and have NAPALM work on it.

[PhilJ]

That's probably a good Idea.
When ever I change something, I normally (if I don't understand everything about what I'm doing) find the setup explanation in the factory manual and follow it to the letter. Most of the time the factory knows what their talking about. When you follow the factory setup to the letter you should be in the ball park if not right on the money. If it is not then there is another problem and needs someone with experience in that area. It's a good rule of thumb to follow. If you do as above and the problem is corrected then you've learned something. If it's not corrected the you've also leaned something if you'll talk to the mechanic and find out what he/she has done to correct your problem.

Good luck Eric, if you need anything, I'm close by towards your dealer. Let me know. I think this will get worked out easily. It's just a grey area for the uniformed (you and me) and will be resolved easily. Don't worry these bikes are "Bullet Proof" and the proper care (once we learn) will result in longevity.

Phil