Author Topic: 2002 Bullet E Blinkers not working  (Read 4745 times)

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TheRealBullet500

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on: August 23, 2018, 04:07:27 pm
Blinkers stopped working but all other lights/horn work.
Anyone know what could be wrong and where can I find the relay? Not in the fuse box and can not find it anywhere


tooseevee

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Reply #1 on: August 23, 2018, 04:51:48 pm
Blinkers stopped working but all other lights/horn work.
Anyone know what could be wrong and where can I find the relay? Not in the fuse box and can not find it anywhere

      Under the seat on my '08.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #2 on: August 23, 2018, 05:22:03 pm
Reasons for failure.....1)relay under seat bad or detached, 2)worn out switch on handlebar, 3)trafficator wire from battery to switch or switch to relay shorted to frame. The trafficator wires should be light green/black stripe for right side and grey for the left side.  The flasher circuit wires should be white and red/white stripe. In order to test the switch, get multimeter set to volts DC , back probe the light green/black stripe wire at the switch.  One probe on  green/black stripe wire, the other to ground. Is there voltage when switched to right turn?  Repeat back probe with the grey wire at switch to ground when switch set to left turn, is there voltage?
« Last Edit: August 23, 2018, 05:39:23 pm by mrunderhill1975a »


Bilgemaster

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Reply #3 on: August 23, 2018, 09:00:12 pm
In addition to Mr. Underhill's handy tips, I wonder if perhaps some or all but one of your blinkers (also known as "trafficators") might be lighting up, yet not blinking. This happened on my 2005 Bullet 500ES, and a simple replacement of one of the front bulbs, which had burned out, fixed the issue.
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India. Yet it squeaks by here in Virginia.

 


TheRealBullet500

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Reply #4 on: August 23, 2018, 11:07:31 pm
Front blinkers look fine


TheRealBullet500

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Reply #5 on: August 23, 2018, 11:09:07 pm
Also looked under the seat and not there. Sorry for short replies, getting database error when trying to post long message


TheRealBullet500

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Reply #6 on: August 23, 2018, 11:16:32 pm
I also took apart the handlebar assembly with the blinker switch. Looked clean. I am sure it is the blinker relay but I cannot find this thing. I tried chasing the wires from the blinkers and the switch and there is no relay in between. Maybe it is not a physical relay and is more of an electronic controller with PWM?


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #7 on: August 23, 2018, 11:21:05 pm
If it is not under seat, someone moved it. There are not that many places to hide, it should be a small box or cylinder about 1.5 inch by 1.5 inch with two wires. The only places I can think to hide it would be under the fuel tank, or perhaps inside the nacelle. If it is not a physical relay and is more of an electronic controller with PWM, it should still be approximately the same size box I would suspect.

I found this one online for $3. Very small, could look like this or be inside a plastic box with four wires total.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2018, 11:52:51 pm by mrunderhill1975a »


Arizoni

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Reply #8 on: August 24, 2018, 01:05:15 am
According to a wiring diagram that is supposed to be for an old RE Iron Barrel the blinkers use a relay with three wired connected to it.  I can't make out what color they are except for a black ground wire.  The other wires might be red/white or a yellow/white one and a blue one.

I'm pretty sure Royal Enfield wasn't using high tech controllers.  Back in 2002, they thought a set of make and break ignition points was high tech.  ;D ;D 8)
Jim
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TheRealBullet500

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Reply #9 on: August 24, 2018, 01:10:35 am
I am not sure about the iron barrel part. This forum was the closest thing to what I have


tooseevee

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Reply #10 on: August 24, 2018, 02:44:24 pm
I am not sure about the iron barrel part. This forum was the closest thing to what I have

       What are you not sure about? You're in the correct forum (Iron Barrel) as far as I can see for a 2002.

        (Or were you being ironic  :) ??? ??? )
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


tooseevee

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Reply #11 on: August 24, 2018, 02:48:57 pm
I'm pretty sure Royal Enfield wasn't using high tech controllers.  Back in 2002, they thought a set of make and break ignition points was high tech.  ;D ;D 8)

         Duh, I ain't seen one a' them thar thangs on my AVL either and it's six years newer  ??? ??? :)
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


TheRealBullet500

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Reply #12 on: August 24, 2018, 04:37:11 pm
Sorry, I don't even know what I have. I am 2 weeks into being an Enfield owner. Have not been able to really ride it yet because the blinkers are not working. There was a front blinker that had the plastic broken and I could not find this exact type of blinker anywhere. Had to buy a new set. The original take 1 screw and have a plastic latch on the other side. The new ones take 2 screws. I saw on the back of the bike it says "Bullet E" but now on the side I see that it says "Bullet ES". I just don't know what Iron Barrel means and if I have that model.
Here is a pic of what mine looks like
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_2sbE8ZrwLa4/TJdm04sFLyI/AAAAAAAAIVo/EWFi8C3yn3k/s400/Woulfe_1.jpg

I assume I know what a relay looks like but cannot seem to find it on this bike. Makes no sense.


Arizoni

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Reply #13 on: August 24, 2018, 05:34:17 pm
First, you have an Iron Barrel.  It is called that because, like the Bullet's dating all the way back to 1935, it has an iron cylinder that the piston runs up and down in.
The newer AVL or Lean Burn and the new Unit Construction Engine (UCE)  engine has a more modern aluminum cylinder with a steel liner.
People nicknamed the old engine like yours an" Iron Barrel" partially out of affection and partially because it is quite different from the newer type engines so it has its own set of answers to questions about it.

The blinker relay most likely looks like a small black box approx 1" X 1" X 1" (25mm X 25mm X 25mm) in size.

If you replaced your indicator's, did they have 2 wires or were they like the chrome plated steel bullets I used on mine which only had 1 wire?
The kind like mine which only have 1 wire use the body of the indicator as the ground path.

That should make connecting them pretty easy but it doesn't.

First, the body of the indicator must contact bare steel on the frame.  An alternate idea is to install a dedicated ground wire that contacts the body of the indicator.

Another problem is, the two wires that connected to my old indicators were not what they seemed to be on my 2011.
The wire I thought was the ground wire turned out to be the power wire and the wire I thought was the power wire turned out to be the ground wire.
When I hooked up my indicators I basically wired the power wire directly to the housing which was grounded to the frame with the mounting nut.

To find out if this is your problem you will need a Volt/Ohm meter.  They measure voltage and resistance and can be bought for about $8-$10 at a Harbor Freight store or about $20 at a large hardware store.

To use it, set the selector to Ohms (looks like the Greek letter Omega).  Turn it on if it has a switch and touch the two test wire tips together.  The reading should be 0.000 (zero).  If it is working, now touch one of the VOM's test wires to one of the wires that comes from the harness to the indicator. 
Holding this in contact, now touch the other test wire to some bare part on the motorcycle.
If you get a reading of zero or close to it, the harness wire you connected to is the ground wire.
The other wire is the power supply wire.  Make sure the power supply is the one that connects to the rear of the bulb in the indicator.

By the way, having a good VOM is a real good idea.
Royal Enfield's can develop all sorts of issues with their wiring and having a VOM can let you figure out what and where the problem is. 
« Last Edit: August 24, 2018, 05:36:28 pm by Arizoni »
Jim
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TheRealBullet500

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Reply #14 on: August 24, 2018, 06:11:29 pm
The blinkers had 2 wires and everything seemed pretty clean when I was installing it. So the metal on the blinker that contacts the bike needs to be bare metal on both sides in order to ground? That sounds like it may be the problem. I had to duct tape the horn to the frame because the mount broke and it was dangling, but after doing that I noticed the horn did not work. After moving the horn around while holding the button I found that the house mount needed to touch the frame on bare metal in order to ground correctly and it actually worked. So maybe the same kind of issue is at play here with the blinkers. Under the seat is a small black box with 2 wires I think. It is a sealed box and I though after reading it that I found it to be a DC to AC converter or maybe the other way around. I will have to look again and see if that is the relay. First I am going to see about all the blinkers being grounded correctly.