[Paul_42]

Morning all. Replaced the clutch yesterday and added six new heavy duty springs to boot. Found sprang bolt loose and clutch basket nut finger loose with in/ out slop of basket. Re installed, filled with oil and major clutch drag and could not select neutral. Turned bike off, selected neutral, waited for oil to circulate properly and bike temp to warm up a bit and still drags and cannot engage gears after putting into first. Pulled all apart and took out 4 of the heavy duty springs, replaced with standard and still have clutch drag, and almost impossible to change gear. Have not ridden yet. Any guesses to what I have missed or do I need to keep adjusting the clutch cable. Many thanks in advance.. Oh, don't ask me to ring the dealer cause I did and the muppet couldn't hang up on me fast enough.

[Arizoni]

The gap between the clutch lever and the solid bracket when the clutch lever is pulled just hard enough to take up the slack should be about 2-3 mm (.08-.12 or 3/32-1/8 inches).

If the clutch still drags with the cable adjusted to that amount there is a good chance the clutch plates are warped.
You say you "replaced the clutch".  Does that mean you replaced all of the clutch plates?

Reading thru the Repair Manual, the only warning I saw said,
"Insure smooth face of all clutch plain plates are kept in the same direction to avoid clutch jerk/slippage."

They use a special tool that looks like a 3/8 X 3/8 bar of steel with two holes in it which align with two of the clutch basket bolts.  It seems to be used to compress the spring loaded center of the clutch so the other bolts can be removed easily.

There is also a heavy washer that goes under the clutch retaining nut that must be installed but I'm sure you wouldn't have forgotten it.

Beyond that, everything seems to be pretty straight forward.

[Paul_42]

Hi, that's what I thought. All washers in right place. 6 new steel plates and 7 new friction plates. I'm almost at the end of the thread adjustment wise. Going to pull the mongrel apart again.in a minute,do not see anything that could be giving me grief.

[Paul_42]

Quick one. Are the clutch plates for the 500.the same as the GT? Part number 888102

[Arizoni]

Boy!
That's a question for Tim.

Tim probably knows more about Royal Enfield parts than anyone in the US (including the old Indian AVL and Iron Barrel models).

Give him a call at:

Baker Motorsport Co.
8124 West Fwy
Fort Worth, TX 76108
Call us at +1 (817) 834-1392

[Paul_42]

Couldnt get through so sent msg via their ebay site. Thanks for the info.

[gizzo]

How's the difference in thickness between the old and the new plates?  Maybe it can't release if the stack is too thick?

[Paul_42]

Yeh Simon. Friction plates look a preverbial hair too thick. Have pulled the @^#%@& out 4 times. About to do number 5 now. Put the old clutch back in with the heavy duty springs and try somewhere else for a new kit. Flea bay hasnt responded so will give another 24hrs before i go on the war path.NOT HAPPY JAN

[gizzo]

Good luck. I'd like to help but I got nuthin'. Guess it's OK with old plates and new springs?

[Paul_42]

Just reinstalled old plates new springs . Got pull down and reinstall with cover on and light torque down to 40 min . Yeh baby. Every thing works. New clutch friction plates the cork squares are a different size compared to old( yes I factored wear in ) and slightly wider top to bottom.

[gizzo]

Woo!  Now pull it apart one more time and try old steels with new friction.
I'm just messing with ya... 

[Paul_42]

Ggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr 

[Paul_42]

Re purchased new plates from Motociclo at St Peters who ordered from RE Australia, Friction plates and steel plates in and guess what....IT WORKS....... Different markings on the new clutch friction plates (small MK ) Indian ones large MK.. I dunno