[Royal Stargazer]

About three weeks ago, I tried to start my lovely 2003 Bullet ES after sitting for about three weeks (life got busy in a motorcycle-unfriendly manner), and I had a hell of a time getting her to start. At the time, she had a little under a gallon of relatively fresh nonoxygenated premium fuel, the stock Micarb 28mm, a healthy battery, and healthy oil. She took about five to ten minutes of kicking to get her to start, and she had a tendency to die in those first few minutes, so I nursed the throttle while preparing for a ride. She'd run a minute or two, then stall, and I'd try to start her again. She'd run feebly for ten to thirty seconds, and not really respond to the throttle. Eventually, she quit starting.

Fast forward to this weekend. I replaced a fouled plug, installed a Mikuni VM32 that I had been saving for a special occasion, and replaced the existing fuel with a gallon of fresh nonoxygenated premium. I checked that everything operated, and tried to get her to start again to no avail. I began to suspect that spark may be a problem, so I cracked open Google, and broke out my multimeter. I've tested the coil, and it appears to check out based on a number of resources I'd found. The battery is still good, reading about 12.6v. I got behind the battery to check that black wire from the points that likes to come undone. I checked the fuse, and looked for loose or frayed wires. I checked for spark at the plug, and to my surprise, I had none.

With the key on, the ammeter doesn't react when I switch the kill switch to the run position, or try to kick the bike. The electric start never really worked, but it decided to cooperate long enough today to show that it too couldn't get the poor bike to start. The coil tests okay, the battery is still strong, the plug is brand new, the plug wire checked out, the gas is fresh, and the points looked clean. I didn't get a chance to dig behind the nacelle in search of answers tonight, and I'm not sure where to go from here. Most of the searching I've done pointed to either the coil or that black wire behind the battery, but those checked out fine for me.

I digress. I'm interested in hearing any input the lot of you might have. I'm pretty green at motorcycles, honestly, but I'm handy enough with a spanner and almost stupid enough to try anything. Almost.

[tooseevee]

About three weeks ago, I tried to start my lovely 2003 Bullet ES after sitting for about three weeks (life got busy in a motorcycle-unfriendly manner), and I had a hell of a time getting her to start. At the time, she had a little under a gallon of relatively fresh nonoxygenated premium fuel, the stock Micarb 28mm, a healthy battery, and healthy oil.

I checked for spark at the plug, and to my surprise, I had none.

The coil tests okay,

           You say you had no spark and don't say if you EVER got a spark.

            And you say the coil is OK, but then you say you have no spark at the brand new plug. Plus you say the old plug was fouled. Why? Weak spark, maybe? Why don't you put a real coil on it? Does it still have that thing under the tank that Enfield calls a coil?

             I'd replace the coil first thing (especially if it's the original) if I was there and go from there. Then I'd want to know about the points and timing.

             Plus you've added a whole NEW set of variables by changing the carburetor on an engine that already wasn't running right. Now you have a carb that needs dialing in on an engine that already wasn't starting or running right.

             And what is non-oxygenated gasoline

[cyrusb]

"With the key on, the ammeter doesn't react when I switch the kill switch to the run position, or try to kick the bike."This statement speaks volumes. Either your battery is dead/disconnected or your points are not closing and/or are dirty. That black wire from your points has a plug that is notorious for corroding, paper it shiny. Sounds as if the fueling was working. You had a wet plug right?

[High On Octane]

If you did in fact test the coil correctly, and all your other tests were performed correctly and all is conclusive, then there is probably an issue with the points.  I would completely rebuild the points, new contacts and new condensor.  It's likely just the condensor that is bad, but might as well replace it all while you're in there.  Make sure you time the opening and gaps.

[Arizoni]

It sounds to me like power is not getting to the coil.

According to a old Iron Barrel wiring diagram, a red wire with a 20 amp fuse in it supplies power to the ignition switch.

From the ignition switch, there is a brown/white wire that goes to the engine stop switch (kill button).
A white wire goes from the kill switch to one of the two small wiring terminals on the coil.  A black wire goes from the coil to the ignition points.

About the first thing I would try to check is the white wire at the coil.
With the ignition switch turned on you should see the full 12+ battery voltage when it is checked to ground.  If the points are closed when you do the checking the voltage will be lower but in any case you should see signs of power at the white wire connection.

If you don't get any power reading, some wiring connector is loose or corroded or a wire is broken.

If power is getting to the white wire connection, either the points are not opening or like High on Octane suggests, the points are dirty or the condenser is defective.

Just for giggles, you might try disconnecting the condenser at the points.
If that makes the coil fire the spark plug, you will know who the culprit is.

[mrunderhill1975a]

I had a similar problem a few years ago, I changed every ignition component.  Finally, Kevin suggested I check the battery ground point where the neg cable connects to the frame behind the battery box.  I thought that was a silly suggestion until I checked it and found sulphated corrosion and rust on the connection bolt. So, check the battery ground to the frame.

[Adrian II]

And check the ignition switch, they can fail too.

A.

[Royal Stargazer]

Many thanks! I got points, condenser, and coil last weekend and finally got around to installing the points and condenser tonight. Bike started right up on the first kick, which surprised the hell out of me. Now I just need to get the idle back down where it belongs, and I'll be back in the saddle again.

[High On Octane]

Many thanks! I got points, condenser, and coil last weekend and finally got around to installing the points and condenser tonight. Bike started right up on the first kick, which surprised the hell out of me. Now I just need to get the idle back down where it belongs, and I'll be back in the saddle again.

Excellent!  But before you go adjusting the idle: if it was idling fine before, your timing is too far advanced and needs to be retarded.

[Royal Stargazer]

Excellent!  But before you go adjusting the idle: if it was idling fine before, your timing is too far advanced and needs to be retarded.

That's my next task - I've got TDC tool and feeler gauges at the ready. I've got to get this little thumper ready for the DGR!

Now, I've found a couple videos on the topic, but if you have any bits of wisdom you'd like to impart, I'm all ears.

[blasphemous]

make a little lamp and connect it to the points and ground. This will visually tell you when the points close(light on) and open (off) consequently telling you when you hit TDC and the points need to close to light up that damn fuel...

[High On Octane]

make a little lamp and connect it to the points and ground. This will visually tell you when the points close(light on) and open (off) consequently telling you when you hit TDC and the points need to close to light up that damn fuel...

I have to disagree on this.  The points will not tell you when you are TDC for 2 reasons: Timing should be set advanced, therefore when the points close, the piston will not be at TDC yet.  Secondly, there is no guarantee timing is currently set correctly.  Especially if the points and such have been replaced.  The only correct way to find TDC is to remove the spark plug and use some type of tool to visually see the piston stop at the top of its movement.  And even then, you need to make sure you are stopping halfway between the 3* or so overlap at the top of TDC.  The host here and Hitchcock's both sell a tool that threads into the spark plug hole and has a gauge on it to make things easy.  I personally use a piece of metal coat hanger bent into an "L" and carefully eyeball it with the end taped to make my marks.

[tooseevee]

I have to disagree on this.  The points will not tell you when you are TDC for 2 reasons: Timing should be set advanced, therefore when the points close, the piston will not be at TDC yet.  Secondly, there is no guarantee timing is currently set correctly.  Especially if the points and such have been replaced.  The only correct way to find TDC is to remove the spark plug and use some type of tool to visually see the piston stop at the top of its movement.  And even then, you need to make sure you are stopping halfway between the 3* or so overlap at the top of TDC.  The host here and Hitchcock's both sell a tool that threads into the spark plug hole and has a gauge on it to make things easy.  I personally use a piece of metal coat hanger bent into an "L" and carefully eyeball it with the end taped to make my marks.

      Everything you said is great except one little, tiny thing; the spark occurs when the points Open, not when they close.

         So when you set your timing static with a light, you rotate the cam toward the points block (points are now closed) and the exact second that your light lights is when the points Opened. Lock down the points plate. Done.

         The time the points are closed is called dwell and that's when the coil gets recharged, but you knew that 

[High On Octane]

      Everything you said is great except one little, tiny thing; the spark occurs when the points Open, not when they close.

         So when you set your timing static with a light, you rotate the cam toward the points block (points are now closed) and the exact second that your light lights is when the points Opened. Lock down the points plate. Done.

         The time the points are closed is called dwell and that's when the coil gets recharged, but you knew that 

 

You are correct.  Damn pre-coffee brain. 

[Royal Stargazer]

Rad - thanks for all your help. I did manage to get my timing adjusted since 9/2. I've spent the time since then monkeying with my carb. I think I'm nearly done. She runs a bit rich, but still worlds better than she did before. Over the weekend, I aim to try a couple new jets.

Now, the bulk of my problems appear to be gearbox-related.