Awesome, i just ordered a plug wire from lowbrow customs... Saw their YouTube video on how to crimp the wire ends and looked like exactly what I need. 7mm, it's black cloth with orange tracers (slick looking) and has a copper core.
Should get delivered early next week.
So it looks like we have success in the motorcycle!
Everything is all plugged in, mounted up, and screwed down tight. I put back in the headlight switch jumper which bypasses the RH light control switch and now my running lights work! So the culpret is definitely the RH control cluster as far as lights go, and that has honestly been wonky for years. Probably a bad solder joint etc.
I'm positive my rectifier/regulator had been failing and frying my electrics though, and that new Chinese one gives me confidence for the new setup.
I didn't try to kick it over yet since it was late and I have neighbors, but I am confident it will run.
The ignition switch is now bypassed and I am relying on an on/off toggle hidden below the seat to cut power from the battery. The Killswitch still works the same as it always did for engine shutoff. To bypass the ignition switch I went inside the headlight casque, unplugged the plastic connector at the ignition switch, cut a small 1 inch piece of 14 gauge wire with both ends stripped, jammed one end in each side of the now disconnected plug, and taped it in place. Elegant. The connector from the ignition switch itself is now just dangling and not connected to anything. The other end of the plastic connector contains the sending and receiving leads, and those are what I jumped together.
Once I get a new OEM ignition switch I'll probably keep the battery toggle installed just as a safeguard against leeching power when the bike is off.
Can't wait to get this thing on the road, and weather willing this weekend I will.
Next week will be coil installation, and lots of riding to see if I am in fact breakdown free. (Probably just jinxed it)
That's all for now.
Chuck