[Roger]

I took my Bullet to my buddy's house 60 miles over the mountain and gave her another oil change Saturday.  I struggled a little with the oil sight glass.
On the way home it started cutting off on me so I stopped and saw the oil showed a little low.  I topped it up and she ran well all the way home. 
When I got home I parked the bike along side the house and go inside to remove my gear.  When I went out to move her into the backyard she had no electricity whatsoever.  No light or fuel pump noise at all. 
Too hot to look at it until morning.  Updates coming...

[wildbill]

first off i'd do a battery test yo see if the battery is low on voltage and history. just because you have a new bike doesn't mean you also got a good battery
my next thought would be check the fuse in the ecu box in case the pump one has blown.
now the big one...its possible the neg lead to the battery has broken due to vibes. the best way to check that is remove the battery and peel back the plastic on the neg cable.
usually it the small thin one which breaks contact. this lead powers your ecu. while your at it check both the main pos and neg leads just in case they snapped just where the battery bolts
on the off chance - you have your kill switch on!

[wildbill]

also make sure your side stand is UP and the bike is in neutral!

[2bikebill]

I don't know how they are these days, hopefully way better than the early UCE bikes, but there used to be a connector which came apart inside the headlamp causing same problem. There was some real spaghetti wiring in there. Worth checking.

[Roger]

Battery is kaput.   I'm going to charge it for a few hours but I don't have much hope for it.

[Bert Remington]

Roger -- if your budget can accommodate it (not likely with a new purchase but maybe giving up those craft IPAs can help ), I suggest the Shorai LFX14L5-BS12 per my https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,26107.msg300485.html#msg300485 post. If the choice is between a less expensive battery like MotoBatt plus an LED headlight bulb (and Always-On jumper removal) and the Shorai, go with the former.  Reducing headlight load is important both near- and long-term.

[Roger]

She got a new Duralast AGM.  Why waste perfectly good beer money on a battery?

[wildbill]

when you buy these bikes ..your troubles are just starting not that I would know as I head towards bike 12...LOL

[Devante]

Roger -- if your budget can accommodate it (not likely with a new purchase but maybe giving up those craft IPAs can help ), I suggest the Shorai LFX14L5-BS12 per my https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,26107.msg300485.html#msg300485 post. If the choice is between a less expensive battery like MotoBatt plus an LED headlight bulb (and Always-On jumper removal) and the Shorai, go with the former.  Reducing headlight load is important both near- and long-term.

Wait, can you explain this to me?
Is there some tricks to different types of headlights?

I want to get a new LED halo headlight to replace my 2016 CGT stock one.
Is there something I should know about replacing headlights?

[heloego]

   Understand that in the RE 12v system, all the electrical runs off of Battery Power. All the "magneto" does is charge the battery, and its output is not exactly powerful.
   Since the constant electrical loads on the battery from incandescent lights will be higher than the magneto output when at idle, the battery actually is losing charge.   Replacing the lights (headlight, pilot lights, and turn signals) with LEDs vastly reduces the load on the battery.   
   Removing the "always on" jumper in the casquette will allow you to turn off the headlight making the Light Switch actually FUNCTIONAL, and you can let your ride warm up without putting a drain on the battery. With the jumper installed, when you turn on the key the headlight places a considerable drain on the battery and can make it hard to start.

   As for batteries, the Shorai gets excellent reviews, here and elsewhere. If you still have the factory battery I recommend getting rid of it as soon as practicable and going with one of any number of quality AGM (absorbed glass mat) or at least sealed batteries. The quality of the factory batteries is deplorable, and maintenance of them is a pain.

[Bert Remington]

Devante -- assuming you have a 5.75" sealed beam headlight, I suggest you convert to 7" to provide a traditional look and more options for housings and bulbs.

My path: CIBIE 82440 housing using same-size headlight rings but in black.  Not recommended although it looks good with Hella Amber bulb (I feel an Arizoni moment approaching).

My suggestion:

(1) using same-size headlight rings, install an integrated LED unit that isn't very deep (most aren't).  I think I know the "angel eye" integrated unit you hinted at.  Vendor quality seems adequate and price is good.  What color are you going to choose?  BTW it looks to be an easy install since there should be an available Parking light power and ground connectors in your casquette -- no splicing necessary.

(2) using Hitchcock's extended headlight rings (http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Head-Lights-and-fittings-Lighting/34284), install a separate housing (like my Cibie) and LED H4 bulb.  In your choice of bulbs, make sure you get one with an externally-cooled bulb because the rubber boot on the housing will block the airflow of an internally-cooled bulb.  You want to keep the boot because the casquette is open to rain, dust, etc.  Even with Hitchcock's ring, you want to make sure your bulb doesn't hit the speedometer cable so take measurements and do much research before your purchase.  I didn't and discovered a number of "success" stories used GPS speedometers.

So now my DRL is a DOT-approved fog light and my nighttime illumination is a 60/55W amber incandescent (my RE is mostly sunshine-only).  As Scotty Brown said "Enfields are the canvas for works of art !"

[Devante]

Devante -- assuming you have a 5.75" sealed beam headlight, I suggest you convert to 7" to provide a traditional look and more options for housings and bulbs.

My path: CIBIE 82440 housing using same-size headlight rings but in black.  Not recommended although it looks good with Hella Amber bulb (I feel an Arizoni moment approaching).

My suggestion:

(1) using same-size headlight rings, install an integrated LED unit that isn't very deep (most aren't).  I think I know the "angel eye" integrated unit you hinted at.  Vendor quality seems adequate and price is good.  What color are you going to choose?  BTW it looks to be an easy install since there should be an available Parking light power and ground connectors in your casquette -- no splicing necessary.

(2) using Hitchcock's extended headlight rings (http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Head-Lights-and-fittings-Lighting/34284), install a separate housing (like my Cibie) and LED H4 bulb.  In your choice of bulbs, make sure you get one with an externally-cooled bulb because the rubber boot on the housing will block the airflow of an internally-cooled bulb.  You want to keep the boot because the casquette is open to rain, dust, etc.  Even with Hitchcock's ring, you want to make sure your bulb doesn't hit the speedometer cable so take measurements and do much research before your purchase.  I didn't and discovered a number of "success" stories used GPS speedometers.

So now my DRL is a DOT-approved fog light and my nighttime illumination is a 60/55W amber incandescent (my RE is mostly sunshine-only).  As Scotty Brown said "Enfields are the canvas for works of art !"

Thanks for the info!

I think I'm going with 7 inch because you're right, it fits the bike better.

I originally purchased this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N1K11Z

Which had exactly the look I wanted. The halo light does in fact have little connector for it so no splicing needed.

Unfortuntely, the clamps were way too small for the forks so I had to send it back. Also the housing sure was small so I'm not even sure all the wires and connectors would have fit in there! I doubt they would have even fit in the hole you push them through haha. So now I'm trying to find the same style and color (black housing all the way).

Oh and I did take that jumper keeping you from using the headlight controls. I didn't know about how the magneto works and how it drains a lot when idling so thanks for that info, heloego !

[Bert Remington]

Devante -- I thought you were referring to this headlight housing: https://www.amazon.com/OCTANE-LIGHTING-Halogen-Headlight-Motorcycle/dp/B00GNU11JA/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1531192216&sr=1-4&keywords=octane+7%22+angel+eye+motorcycle+headlight

You still have to find an LED H4 bulb.  There's a great choice for externally-cooled but you have to make sure the bulb doesn't bump the speedometer cable.  For internally-cooled I think this (https://www.amazon.com/Headlights-Flickering-Brightness-Conversion-Replacement/dp/B07D32J81K/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1531192835&sr=1-1&keywords=H4+9003+Led+Headlight+Bulb%2C+12000LM+6500K+Lumileds) would be an excellent bulb (same length as incandescent H4) but since it cools out the back by the connector I have my doubts when there is a weather-tight boot.  I asked the vendor and they said no problem with boot and they have a 3-year replacement warranty.  I went down another path but this one was attractive...if it worked.  The bulbs are sold in pairs with free shipping -- if you buy the pair and you want to sell one, I'll buy it including shipping to SD.  Yeah I never seem to stop exploring.

[suitcasejefferson]

Regardless of what you do with the headlight, I recommend using a MotoBatt battery. I've had one for 4 1/2 years and it has held up fine. I still have the stock headlight. I don't ride much at night, too many HUGE potholes in the roads around here. Your Duralast should last for awhile. I recommend keeping it on a battery tender. I did replace the terminals on my battery cables. The cables go on the back side of the battery and can be a real pain to deal with. I made them longer to give me more access room.


I specifically recommend against a Shorai battery. They are LiFePO4 batteries, and very fragile. They have to be charged exactly right or they will fail. A sealed lead/acid battery is a lot tougher and can take a lot more abuse. The technology for LiFePO4 batteries just isn't there yet IMO. Several members of my Vulcan 750 forum tried them, as well as MOSFET regulators, and most of them failed in a fairly short time. This technology may work in a laptop, but not on a motorcycle, especially one that vibrates like an Enfield.

[Bert Remington]

suitcasejefferson -- I intend to be a RE Shorai success story.

One of the changes I made in my first month is to replace the stock FLA (if it has liquid I call it FLA even if sealed) with a Shorai LFX.  Shorai's market focus is motorcycles and other powersport vehicles.  They don't make car batteries.  My research leads me to believe they are the market's best and highest quality supplier of this battery chemistry.

The Shorai LFX, like others of its battery chemistry, has two weaknesses (besides a relatively high price tag).  First, long-term operation below 13V (20% charge) will drastically shorten its lifetime.  A digital indicator or voltmeter is recommended if your RE's recharge rate is marginal compared to your riding and farkle profile to ensure your awareness.  Second, trickle/maintenance and "recovery" charger modes using off-motorcycle chargers without a "lithium" chemistry option will drastically shorten its lifetime.  If the battery is below 13.2V (80% charge) and your charger doesn't have the "lithium" option then charge it for an hour or two using the "FLA" option (not the higher voltage "Optima/Odyssey" option) and then disconnect.  Its better to stop at 80% than continue once 100% has been reached.  Set a timer!

There are two aspects to vibration sensitivity: chemistry and construction.  Lithium chemistry is at least as good as FLA.  And Shorai construction is at least as good as MotoBatt (I concur MotoBatt is an excellent battery for its chemistry type).  Vibration is not the Shorai LFX killer.