[mattsz]

High On Octaine?  Anyone?

The stabilizer bar, or sway bar, links on the front end of my 2001 Toyota Corolla are worn and rattling, and need to be replaced.  It looks like an easy job I can do myself.  I ordered a pair of links, just like the ones in the first photo attached.  The threaded rods swivel in their bases, with rubber boots protecting the inner workings, I suppose.  In the second attached pic, they're shown in position; you can see how the threaded rods point in different directions with the front end raised off the ground.

Of the two links I got, one of them has rods that swivel somewhat easily, by hand, with a bit of "stiction"-style resistance.  The other one's rods cannot be budged by hand at all.  If I try to pinch the ends together in a vise, one of them moves, but I can't move it back again by hand.

So, to my question: is one of these links bad?  I don't know how stiff these threaded rods should be in their sockets.  I'm not sure if I'll be able to install the tight one, since with the front end off the ground, the sway bar pulls the threaded ends apart - although maybe when disconnected, the sway bar is easily pivoted?

I'd appreciate some advice on these from someone with some experience...  thanks!

[High On Octane]

Hey Mattz!

Typically, new end links should be very stiff.  If either are bad out of the box, I'd say the one that is looser.  For the most part an easy job.  An air or electric ratchet will make life easier, But not necessary.  The hard part is getting the old ones off.  If the old ones spin without loosening there are 2 things you can do.  A.  Look to see if there is any securing points, typically a spot to put a spanner on the threaded post by the boot, and a slot or hex hole in the end on the threaded post.  If the old ones do not have these present, proceed to B.  Grab the end of threaded post closest to the joint/boot with needle nose locking pliers and remove the nut.  If the new end link nuts are standard non-locking nuts, use the old nuts if they are locking and same thread pitch and size.  They need to be a good pair of licking pliers or they will just slip off.  Hope this helps.

[mattsz]

I knew I could count on you, Scottie! 

I guess I'll contact the supplier and ask them about it.  You think I shouldn't be able to pivot the links by hand?

The original links, and the replacements, have a hex hole in the end of the threads.  Before I ordered new ones, I checked to see if I could loosen the old ones, and I found I was able with a bit of penetrating oil and a bit of patience cleaning out the hex holes...

[Bilgemaster]

I've only ever done any front suspension work on elderly Mopar gear (a '60 Plymouth Savoy and a '76 Dodge van), so don't have much to bring to the table, except to say that in both cases local auto supplies joints had loaner tools that saved me a lot of money. Unless you plan to do a lot of this sort of thing (and who would want to?), you don't need to be buying those special pricey pullers, forks or even big ass sockets.

[mattsz]

Thanks Bilgemaster!  I've discovered that my local Advance auto parts offers free loans of many special tools - but in this case, none are needed.  Just a 5mm allen socket in a ratchet driver and a box wrench (14mm maybe? I can't recall).  Before even ordering the new parts, I checked to see if I could remove the old ones, and found that I could.  I guess tiny double-ought toyota sedans are a different animal...

But would like to be sure before I try to return these things with the claim that one of them is no good...