[Ergyd]

I'm luckily still in touch with the previous owner of Harriet, my 2011 B5 - so I'm still able to ask questions about history/mods etc that might've happened in the past.

Recently, I discovered that he had the ECU of the bike 'upgraded' to the CGT map... From reading up on here, I gather that this is probably quite a rare adjustment - I believe that a few favours were called-in, in order to do this. But just wondering how it might affect the running of the bike?

Having never ridden a CGT, or any other Enfield in fact, I have nothing to compare to. Nor do I know what information might be required to pass on to you all, in order to determine how the bike is running! So ask as many questions as you want, and I'll try my best to answer.

Diolch

[AmBraCol]

Did he just upgrade the mapping, or did he do a cylinder/piston swap or other mechanical changes?

[Ergyd]

Just the mapping.

The only 'mechanical' changes which might have an effect on running are Hitchcocks EFI Silencer and removed O2 sensor.

[ace.cafe]

It will run richer. The map is calibrated to inject fuel needed for 7% more displacement.

[Ergyd]

Aha! Thanks ace, that makes sense. But also sets up a few more questions - forgive me.

How will running rich affect the bike? Both in terms of riding, and any long-term effects...
I.e. Better acceleration/efficiency at certain rev ranges? More likely to foul plugs?

And is this ecu change useful/appropriate for the bike? Can the bike make use of the rich running, and if so, what further modifications could I do to take advantage of that?

Or, on the flip side, if there's no benefit, is it worth leaning the bike back out somehow?

[ace.cafe]

It may have some benefit with a free flowing exhaust, maybe. Still a non adjustable unit. A stab in the dark.

If improved performance is the goal, a power commander would be a much better option. You can adjust it.

[Ergyd]

Thanks Ace. I'm not particularly looking for improved performance (nor can I afford a PCV at the moment!), just trying to get to know the bike better, and what she needs to make her happy!

Free-flow exhaust is a good option to have... I have the Hitchocks EFI silencer on there currently, with the baffle on max.
What about air intake? If it's running rich, can I - or more importantly, should I be using a free-er air filter system? (I'm a big fan of the aesthetics of the Ace Canister)

[wildbill]

if I could pick just one cheap mod for and enfield from 2009 till 016 - i'd pick sports exhaust outright.
you will notice an improvement in pick up straight up and it will run quicker too
after that's it like wasting money to chase power in a car......it will cost you more $$$ and it gets out of hand.
so sports exhaust -vibration plate- and a set of foam grips would be my pick of three good mods and could be done for $200...and that's $AU..LOL

[Ergyd]

Thanks for the tip, Wildbill - will definitely look into a sports exhaust. The main issue for me however, is noise levels. Living in a built-up area, and with a lot of early-morning starts on the bike, I'm weary of being anti-social.
Fully aware of the saying "loud pipes save lives", though, so it's a matter of striking a balance!


BUT! Having said all of this, I thought I'd take a look at the spark-plug (BPR6ES). If it was running rich, I figured it would be good to see what the situation was in there.

Was intrigued to find a plug which, to me, doesn't look rich at all... Thoughts?

[Arizoni]

To me, the plug looks like it is running a little rich or the engine has had a lot of low speed, easy going trips on it.

The black carbon on the body and threads isn't a major concern to me but the center insulator should be a bit whiter or more the color of ivory.

Don't worry about it unless it starts mis-firing and then think about going to a hotter plug like a NGK BPR5ES.

[Ergyd]

Well, since I put that previous plug in, I've mostly done long journeys (100mile each way), and not just pottering around. Some good stretches at 60mph.
So I guess that means it is running rich... Which I wasn't worrying about, until the last couple of days:

As per my thread re. small negative lead which broke, the bike was playing up. Start and idle fine, acceleration fine. But some areas of throttle (I don't have a tach, so can't offer RPM ranges) - the first crack, and any mid-rev constant cruise - the bike would cough, shudder and surge.

I went ahead and replaced the negative starter cable, and the small negative lead (splicing in more wire, as per recommendation - thank you). No change, still behaving horribly.

Happened to go past an auto shop, who had the BPR5ES in stock, figured I'd try that...

Still no improvement.

Started doing some investigations: The TPS was reading 0.56v, and at WOT 3.75v. Seemed low, so popped it up to 0.66v - this change didn't improve anything either (Thought WOT only moved up to 3.78v??)

There is no leak in the air intake, and opening the filter cover for unrestricted air flow did nothing either. But, opening the filter, I realised that this is where the gulping sound comes from.

Battery is fully charged, and charges nicely on the bike.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Here's a video, which I hope is of some help.

Thanks in advance

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HqWtAXV00dLaxnq1tVCRqt5ff2EhNOA6/view?usp=sharing

[longstrokeclassic]

You could try running it with the Lambda sensor connected, one of the resistors in the replacement plug-in block may have worked loose or failed.