[GoSlash27]

 I bought a used Bullet 500 and it wasn't particularly well- maintained. It shifts fine when cold, but likes to hit a false neutral on downshifts when warm.
 I've noticed that the chain could use some tightening and the clutch is nearing the end of it's life. Do you folks think these will cure the problem, or is it something more serious?

 Best,
-Slashy

[tooseevee]

I bought a used Bullet 500 and it wasn't particularly well- maintained. It shifts fine when cold, but likes to hit a false neutral on downshifts when warm.
 I've noticed that the chain could use some tightening and the clutch is nearing the end of it's life. Do you folks think these will cure the problem, or is it something more serious?

 Best,
-Slashy

            I think you've answered your own question.

            You have to do the basic stuff before you can conjecture about what else might be wrong. If the chain is loose and the clutch is worn out (maybe) or not adjusted right, it ain't gonna shift right.

[wildbill]

it would depend upon what year your bike is. I found the later models good to shift and some of the earlier units I had ….came free of charge with a box full of neutrals.
what may help - be more positive on the shift changes. don't play with it- do a nice firm change throughout the gear range
plus you could always do a bit of fine tuning on the clutch adjustment rod above the gear selector. that may help.
plus you could loosen/tighten the nut a turn or two either way and see if that helps with the clutch engagement

[Narada]

From what I've read here on the forum our clutch cable adjustment is critical. 

I beieve you want 2mm play at the hand lever end. More or less play gives problems. Get it right and all is well! 

[Arizoni]

Neutral on my G5 is a bit fussy.
It is pretty easy to find it  by shifting first to 1st gear and then lightly pressing up on the gear shift lever.

Going from 2nd to neutral usually ends up with the transmission jumping over neutral and ending up in 1st gear.

As for shifting thru all of the gears, wildbill is right.
These Royal Enfields like a long, full movement of the shift lever, all the way thru the length of their travel.
Short, quick shifts that work on the Jap bikes don't work.  They usually end up causing the transmission to fail to engage the next gear and ending up in a "false neutral".

[no bs]

the positive, no-nonsense shift is crucial. sometimes it could be as simple as trying a different pair of shoes(boots).

[Scotty Brown]

Sometimes a few ounces of Marvel Mystery oil will help the situation.  Worked in mine for over 15,000 miles and still shifts smoothly. 

[Narada]

Also, rotating the shift lever one or two splines, to raise or lower the contact point with boot may help.

I like to use the heel part of my heel - toe shift lever (from ebay) for positive shifting too. 

[harshjain]

Sometimes a few ounces of Marvel Mystery oil will help the situation.  Worked in mine for over 15,000 miles and still shifts smoothly.

+1 for Marvel Mystery oil.
I have started using it every time I fill up gas. Also, use it every oil change.

[Bilgemaster]

+1 for Marvel Mystery oil.
I have started using it every time I fill up gas. Also, use it every oil change.

Yeah, I'm down with the MMO in fuel, with a splash in the engine and primary, but get yourself one of those lovely Barnett clutch cables from the good folks in Ft. Worth, and work with that. You'll be happier in the long haul.

[Blairio]

Sometimes a few ounces of Marvel Mystery oil will help the situation.  Worked in mine for over 15,000 miles and still shifts smoothly.

My gearshift works perfectly without Marvel Snake Mystery Oil.  Would it work even more perfectlier with it?

More seriously, when I was running my bike bike in, I had a choice of neutrals to choose from! These days, there is only one, and it is usually in the right place.

Back in the day, as an impoverished teenager, we used to stick molyslip (molybdenum Disulphide) into 'ailing' (i.e. completely shagged) engines and gearboxes. At the recommended ratio (1 tin moly per oil change) weird stuff happened with engine oil pressure and cold starting. At low ratios (1/8 tin per oil change), things were ok, but no better than with a decent quality oil.

The only additive of any description I have ever had +ve results with was on my daughter's old Vauxhall Astra 1.4 Fuel injected hatchback.  She inherited it with 95,000 miles on the odometer from an elderly relative who had finally stopped driving. The wee car was 17 years old, but had been well maintained. It did however feel sluggish. On a mechanic pal's suggestion I stuck a bottle of Redex fuel injector cleaner in the petrol tank.  Over the next few hundred miles, the engine gradually became more sprightly, before finally performing as it should.

[Richard230]

Say, whatever happened to that viscosity-improving stuff that had to be spooned out of the can and dumped into your engine?  I recall using it in my 1962 Ford Falcon, which did seem to quiet the loose engine down a bit, even if it took an hour to drain the can.  I also used it in a couple of my motorcycles just because, according to their ads, it was supposed to improve power and do all kinds of good things.  Needless to say, it really didn't do much and now the goo is no longer on the market.  I just love engine oil additives. 

[tooseevee]

Say, whatever happened to that viscosity-improving stuff that had to be spooned out of the can and dumped into your engine?  I recall using it in my 1962 Ford Falcon, which did seem to quiet the loose engine down a bit, even if it took an hour to drain the can.  I also used it in a couple of my motorcycles just because, according to their ads, it was supposed to improve power and do all kinds of good things.  Needless to say, it really didn't do much and now the goo is no longer on the market.  I just love engine oil additives. 

              STP?

              We (my mom & I & many others) DID use STP in the winter in Wyoming when I was "growing up". If your cars were outside you just about HAD to have a block heater or a cooling system heater* to get the damn things started in the morning to get to work or school. There WAS a cranking speed difference if you had STP in the engine. A battery heater was a good idea, too.

              *They were patched in to one of the heater hoses and worked by heat syphon (spellcheck doesn't know that word).   

              My '40 Ford DeLuxe Sedan (Hunter Green) my last three years of HS had a South Wind gasoline heater. As soon as the engine was running you had HEAT! Sold it in 1956 for $750; wish I had it now.

               Sorry I'm off-topic. My '08 shifts perfect(ly). Just click click click