[Mick Bailey]

I replaced batteries on two Electra X 500s today and did a voltage check. At idle the voltage was 14.4v and rose to 14.8v at moderate revs. Rather surprisingly with the lights on it went right up to 15.2v at idle and 15.9v at moderate revs. Damn. No wonder the electrolyte dropped so quick on the old batteries. So I checked the other bike and it's identical.

That's fairly poor regulation and needs fixing to avoid the continuous topping-up that's plagued both these bikes from new.

Has anyone else checked their voltages?

[Adrian II]

My Electra-X had a definite flicker on the headlight which I put down to a poor reg-rectifier unit. I even bought a new one from either AO Services or Paul Goff (can't remember which), but a failed big-end meant it went on my AVL/Redditch hybrid instead!

The Indian reg/rectifiers on your two will be at least 11 years old now, I'd replace them with something from a reputable source. You could also try Rex's Speed Shop or Andy Gregory as well as the other two suppliers I mentioned.

A.

[Mick Bailey]

I'll probably build my own and that way I can fix them if they go wrong. It's a shame the original ones are encapsulated as they're simple circuits. 

[Dodd]

This is of interest to me as I want to replace mine with a more reliable R&R.
LED bulbs in the pilot lights blow pretty quick.
I don't run heated grips or the like.
I have an 08 Electra X.
So,I'm looking for a 12v 3 phase R&R with 3 yellow wires and a +,- wire?
But I don't understand the amp and watt rating. Hitchs sell a powerbox at 280w and a Lucas at 200w. Rex has 1 at 250w.
What is solid state?
Will the yellow wires follow the ones that come out of 1 already fitted in the same order?
Thanks,
S.

[Adrian II]

Any generic three-phase reg/rectifier should be able to handle the Electra-X's alternator output, it's not that high (later EFI models have higher output stators). It will have three yellow wires for the AC and the two you mention, + (red) and - (black). The three yellow wires from the alternator can be connected in any order to the three yellow wires from the reg/rectifier.

It might also be worth checking the earth connections for your pilot lights.

Solid state?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solid-state_electronics

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[Dodd]

You rate these Boyer Power boxes?

[Adrian II]

I managed to blow up by a Boyer 3 phase Power Box by wiring it in incorrectly (the built-in capacitor boiled and exploded) before getting a chance to use it, so I never managed to assess its performance... Great for making dents in rear shock absorber shrouds, though. 

I probably would not use the Power Box unless you really wanted one with a capacitor, something from one of the other suppliers will be cheaper.

A.

[Mick Bailey]

An easy way to pick a regulator is to look at the battery that's being charged. Electras use a 14L-B2 battery, the same as a Suzuki LS650. The Suzuki also uses a three-phase RR and these are easily available as aftermarket parts (P/N LHC-054). This appears to be dimensionally the same as the OEM enfield RR. I have one on order just to see what the regulation is like as it's really cheap direct from China. I'll post back the results. In the meantime I'm drawing up some ideas for my own, which I'd rather progress with though an off-the-peg solution would be quicker as I've got a lot of projects on the go right now.

[Dodd]

Can the RE stator/pulsar/flywheel and all the trimmings be replaced with un-RE/better assembly?

[Arizoni]

It might be possible but I doubt it.

What are the chances of finding a stator, and rotor made by some other company that has the exact same mounting interface sizes and locations along with a pulsar trigger that is in exactly the right place?
  I'd guess the answer is none and noner.

IMO, unless the existing stator wires are broken you would be best off to just leave it alone and quit worrying about it.

[Mick Bailey]

It's possible to re-engineer another non-RE system to fit, but would entail so much work as to be infeasible. It could even entail rebuilding the crank with a taper/thread etc to suit, as well as extensive welding and machining of the primary chaincase. The pulser unit is probably the easier thing - so long as it produces a pulse the timing can be set programatically though a custom ignition module.

[Adrian II]

so long as it produces a pulse the timing can be set programatically though a custom ignition module

The old Suzuki GS125 TCI black box was the weapon of choice for Bullet Whisper and Hitchcocks', I had one from another source and it worked very well. Nowadays I think you can only get used or pattern parts instead of originals. Tooseevee tried one off ebay and couldn't get it to run properly.

A.

[Mick Bailey]

I got the Chinese regulator (the part is actually YHC-054) the day before yesterday. Really quick delivery and very well packed. My bike has plenty of room so I made up a mounting plate to fit it in the space where the original air filter would have been. The leads are much thicker than the original unit and shorter. This didn't matter to me, but my wife's bike will need the unit fitted under the seat so will need the three yellow alternator leads extending. The plug mates perfectly with the Enfield alternator connector, but the output needed the connector changing to match the Enfield. Just a couple of minutes work to change it.

I left the original unit on the bike and it was handy to have the replacement accessible to monitor the temperature. After a 30-mile run with the lights on there was hardly any temperature rise. In fact, I think it just got up to ambient temperature (about 22 centigrade today). Regulation is excellent - no more over-voltage and proper control with the lights both on or off. I'm really pleased with how this performs and the construction. Let's see if it lasts......

[Adrian II]

Just had a look on ebay and saw one for a little over £12/$16 with free shipping. I shall be interested to know how long it lasts, that sort of price puts it into the consumables bracket!

A.