[Bmadd34]

Why is there a switch for parking and headlight if it does nothing? Is it supposed to be working? I'm confused.

[no bs]

got to remove the jumper harness in the headlight shell.

[ace.cafe]

It has a bypass jumper because the US has a requirement for headlight always on
Other markets differ.

The jumper is easily removed.

[Bmadd34]

Would removing this jumper Void my warranty? Is it a literal Jumper (singular)? Or a Pig Tail (short harness with multiple dead end/re routing wires that delete others)?

[no bs]

pigtail sub-harness between two red connectors. shouldn't affect warranty, being able to use factory installed switches!

[gashousegorilla]

Would removing this jumper Void my warranty? Is it a literal Jumper (singular)? Or a Pig Tail (short harness with multiple dead end/re routing wires that delete others)?

 No , but the DOT might come after ya !    

 Here.. not sure if this apply's to the new bikes or not ?  But have a look...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhQUNMKRix4

[Arizoni]

Speaking of Singh5g's video, it's easier to gain access to the jumper by just removing the large screw at the top of the headlight and tipping the bulb out.

Speaking of Singh5g, I haven't seen anything posted by him for some time.
I sure hope he's all right.  He's one of the truly "good guys" on the forum.

[Bilgemaster]

No , but the DOT might come after ya !    

 Here.. not sure if this apply's to the new bikes or not ?  But have a look...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhQUNMKRix4

Unfortunately, the wiring shown in that video with its easy "unplug-and-play" switch fix doesn't seem to bear much resemblance to that found in the headlamp shell of my 2005 shown below, which was taken when I was swapping out that goofy little 5¼ inch headlamp for a 7 incher:



Or maybe it does, but my connectors are just not so blatantly standing out in that shade of "really meant to be together orange" as the ones in that video.

On the one hand, I'm kind of OK with knowing that headlamp's always on for safety's sake--One less thing to remember. On the other, I'm bypassing a perfectly good switch that's right there and all. I mean, why just have a "nuttin' button" there, right? Also, there are times when you might not want a blazing headlamp and tail lamp: sucking up all the juice on a cold day's hard starting, disturbing fellow campers during a late arrival at a campsite, or attracting every airborne bug in the county pretty much straight into your teeth...I get enough protein, thanks.

So, just from the photo above, can anyone describe what I might need to yank out and then plug in to give my light switch a reason for being?

[Bmadd34]

I would assume the little pig tail between the green and orange connectors. Plug orange into green, done.

[tooseevee]

Unfortunately, the wiring shown in that video with its easy "unplug-and-play" switch fix doesn't seem to bear much resemblance to that found in the headlamp shell of my 2005 shown below, which was taken when I was swapping out that goofy little 5¼ inch headlamp for a 7 incher:

So, just from the photo above, can anyone describe what I might need to yank out and then plug in to give my light switch a reason for being?

              Your picture very plainly shows the "jumper"; It's the one with the black unshrunk shrink wrap in the very foreground. Just remove it from its two plugs. You now have two plugss which you just plug back into each other. Wah Lah  Your light switch is now human-operable.

           (You can see the wires that are are turned around on each other (jumped) in the left hand connector of the jumper).

[Bilgemaster]

Thanks Tooseevee and Bmadd34! You were indeed both correct. Now the handlebar light switch works as it ought, which is to say, with the ignition switch on the two little parking marker lights on the nacelle and the taillamp light up on the "P<" (Parking) setting, stay on with the full lights setting (with the headlamp icon), but the headlamp does not shine until the motor's running. So, I guess all is as it should be. Barring some need or wish to run dark, I'll likely just leave the switch set on full lights, so I don't forget them, and all should be pretty much as it was before.

I had sort of expected that my Ammeter might return to that traditional start up routine behavior of flicking a smidgeon left and then right-to-center again near TDC, as the points opened and closed, which I had assumed was being masked by the big draw of the always-on headlamp, but a previous owner had splurged on an electronic ignition (for which I am grateful), so there's no difference there. That's OK...I'm now long since used to finding "TDC and a tad" without the Ammeter's help anyhow.

Thanks again guys!

[Rattlebattle]

That’s interesting. On the pre-Euro IV models here in the UK the switch is operable, but the long gets work with the ignition on; the engine doesn’t need to be running. I had thought that it was only the switch that is disabled on the US models, not that once enabled it would work differently. Are you sure you need the engine running to get the headlight to work when the switch is set?

[Bilgemaster]

That’s interesting. On the pre-Euro IV models here in the UK the switch is operable, but the long gets work with the ignition on; the engine doesn’t need to be running. I had thought that it was only the switch that is disabled on the US models, not that once enabled it would work differently. Are you sure you need the engine running to get the headlight to work when the switch is set?

Yes, quite sure that's the case, at least in my 2005 "iron belly". I'd perhaps prefer an ignition on--headlight on (if so switched) situation for pitching tents or whatnot, but I'm OK with the current setup. I've gotten so many of those superb blue Harbor Freight 27-led lamps as freebies, a couple of which are always in my panniers, that I'll get by just fine as-is. In a pinch I can just "fast idle" if it came to that. I just adore that little easily-adjustable-idle Mikarb carb, and have discovered it has its own virtues over the Amal Concentrics I'm used to. Hell, I might stick one on the Norton if I can find those fat jets to suit, should its elderly 930 ever crap out. I mean, they're only 50 bucks delivered too.

[Richard230]

My California-model 2011 Bullet has a headlight and running light switch that works in all positions, engine on or off.   

[Arizoni]

 The headlight is not connected to the battery on the old Iron Barrel motorcycles.
It connects directly to special leads from the alternator that only produce power when the engine is running.

If any of you have removed the switch bypass jumper and your motorcycle needs to be inspected for registration, don't do what one of our members did.

He forgot to turn on the headlight before the test.

The people doing the testing having never seen a motorcycle with a real life headlight switch didn't turn it on either.
As I recall, they did try replacing the bulb and chanting a number of swear words but it didn't help.
It was only after the owner remembered the switch and turned it on that the bike finally passed the test.  ROTFLMAO    .