[Oldie but Goldie]

Hi mates,

Anyone has tried this?

https://content.yudu.com/libraryHtml/A43715/20182019HitchcocksMo/reader.html?page=8&origin=reader

Thanks!

[Arizoni]

No.
Your link got me to page 8 of the booklet.
Did you mean the ones on this page?

https://content.yudu.com/libraryHtml/A43715/20182019HitchcocksMo/reader.html?page=162&origin=reader

[Oldie but Goldie]

No.
Your link got me to page 8 of the booklet.
Did you mean the ones on this page?

https://content.yudu.com/libraryHtml/A43715/20182019HitchcocksMo/reader.html?page=162&origin=reader

Exactly. You can see them at page 162.

[Guaire]

I don’t see them as necessary. If you feel you need pre-load on the springs, cut some PCV tubing and pre-load the springs with them. Use the length to make more or less pre-load. If you don’t need anymore adjustment, just take them out.

[longstrokeclassic]

Great if you want to add some Bling - or for some reason need to continuously adjust your sag.
I usually mess around with washers first to get what I'm after, then reproduce that thickness in either metal or plastic tubing - dependent on what comes to hand.

[chuychacon]

My 2014 GT has washers and a 9" metal tube on top of springs ,are we talking about adding to that or adding a longer metal tube, or would longer springs and shorter preload tube be better??

[longstrokeclassic]

That's what I did to my 865 triumph. I browsed the on-line K-tech catalogue until I found springs of the same diameter, slightly longer and matched to my weight using their on-line guide. Then once installed reduced the length of the metal sleeve to give me the correct amount of sag.  turned out the springs I fitted were the stock fitment for a 600 Honda.

The HMC guide says they replace the stock items with between 2-18mm of preload so looks like everything else remains as is and once fitted you start off with an additional 2mm of preload.

[Low and slow]

Having looked at the image of the adjusters, what tools are used to turn them. Both to fit into the fork leg and the adjustment stud?

[gavinfdavies]

Better off saving your money and getting some Racetech cartridge emulators and properly specced linear springs (if required).

I used just such a setup on my 1996 GPX250 (aka Ninja 250 in the US) combined with a properly specced new Hagon monoshock with a remote hydraulic preload adjuster (for pillion use). The results are so amazing you never actually notice the suspension... until you try another bike. I recently tried out a similar vintage Fireblade, and it felt spongy by comparison.

A set of Hagon twin shocks for the rear (got), and some emulators (still need) and springs for the front should sort the GT out nicely.

[gizzo]

Do the Hagons keep the rear end under control better than the Paiolis ? Getting some bouncing about and decking sidestand and header through bends, here. F...ing sick of that shit.

[gavinfdavies]

Haven't done much riding on mine to confirm yet, but my two other custom Hagon purchases have been spot on, so I don't doubt these will be too.

I found the stock items far to hard if anything. Hitting a bump on the motorway actually kicked me out of my seat at times! Also the travel was too much, as the tyre can rub on the tail light wiring. At one ride out 3 out of 4 bikes showed this.

My Hagons were the budget series, but made 10mm shorter, with a corresponding stroke restrictor. The spring rate was also set more appropriately too. They did require a 3mm space behind the top mount to stop the preload adjuster fouling the fender. These aren't off the shelf from Hitchcocks, I tend to deal direct with Hagon.

I wonder if it's your front that too soft or too lowered? They do tend to dive a bit! My front is actually raised a bit by lowering the fork to be flush with the top yoke and mounting the clip ons under the yoke. Mine suffered from tank slappers a bit prior to this - crossing the lane markings at motorway speeds could be terrifying!

[gizzo]

OK, that's interesting. My front feels not too low, but like you say it dives under braking, and it wallows a bit sometimes. Not in a straight line but when it's leaned over going quickly it can wander a bit. The forks are nice for what they are but when the $ allow, I'll send them for some gold valves and new springs I think.
Softer springs in shorter shocks don't sound like the solution to my problem.
It doesn't seem to be an issue at the track, just on bumpy corners on the road where the suspension compresses leaned over. I think shorter shocks will just make it worse. different strokes for different folks.
Can't say I've ever experienced a tank slapper on this bike: It's too slow for that nonsense.

[Oldie but Goldie]

That's what I did to my 865 triumph. I browsed the on-line K-tech catalogue until I found springs of the same diameter, slightly longer and matched to my weight using their on-line guide. Then once installed reduced the length of the metal sleeve to give me the correct amount of sag.  turned out the springs I fitted were the stock fitment for a 600 Honda.

The HMC guide says they replace the stock items with between 2-18mm of preload so looks like everything else remains as is and once fitted you start off with an additional 2mm of preload.

So the adjusters allow to increase the stiffness of the front suspension, right?

[KC1961]

Adjusting  the pre-load adjusts the ride height, an  "x" lb per inch spring will always be an  "x" lb per inch spring.