Author Topic: oxidation on all covers  (Read 2883 times)

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rtillery02

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on: April 02, 2018, 04:18:58 pm
I've done some searches to find what's effective on keeping my C5 covers shiny without much success. Getting them smooth & shiny...no problem, 'Mothers' & a slow moving polish wheel gets it done, it's KEEPING them that way for a month or more is my issue. Is there something I can seal'em with to hold off the oxidation for longer?
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Bilgemaster

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Reply #1 on: April 02, 2018, 07:56:19 pm
Not too much aluminum alloy to polish on my "Military Green," but as I've already mentioned in this recent posting, on the Nortons I always favored that original NEVR-DULL wadding. Sure, I've also tried tube and bottled pastes and other compounds. I've even boiled a Norton Commando alloy head in a big steel stock pot with rhubarb instead of bead-blasting (an old British motorman's trick that really worked, same as soaking rusty steel or iron bits in a 9-to-1 solution of water and molasses for a week or so), but the NEVR-DULL gets handily into and even more importantly easily out of all those little nooks and crannies without leaving those pasty dark grey crudlets behind that other polishes can, and the shine lasts pretty long. I expect it leaves behind an ultra-light film of its mineral oil base or something after light buffing.

Thing is, I always sort of considered that nose-to-the-motor "quality time" a key part of regular preventative maintenance: That's when you'll spot that just-loosening nut or minor oil leak before it becomes a real problem or you're standing on the side of the road with one of your trouser legs soaked in multigrade. Hence a post-polish "longterm sealer" has never been an item on my "must-have" list. That said, I recently picked up a big 16 oz. bottle of something called Alcoa PDQ Aluminum Polish made by arguably THE Aluminum Company (or "Aluminium" for you quaint Britnoids) for maybe a buck or so, along with armloads of other boating items, lubricants and random needful outdoorsy crap for pennies on the dollar, when the huge local Gander Mountain sporting goods store went belly up along with the rest of the company. Apparently, this PDQ product, which may sadly be discontinued now, or at least very hard to find, comes up again and again and again as being "the best ever aluminum polish, period" in several trucking and firehouse forums frequented by guys who might spend whole afternoons buffing those big spinny things while waiting to roll. Mothers brand polishes also earned frequent kudos. I'm led to understand that the Alcoa PDQ is sort of a single-step polish with a unique light sealer, in contrast to Alcoa's more involved 1-2-3 multi-step system. I finally tried the PDQ a couple of days ago on my newly "de-greened" gearbox inspection cover, which was looking a awfully "flakey" paintwise, and what can I say...It's shiny. The stuff itself seemed a tad thinner than other bottled polishes I've used, but clearly did the job very well. The bottle I have mentions a compatible long-term Alcoa sealer, but like I said, I'm unlikely to be hunting for that any time soon.

As for chrome polish and waxes for the painty bits, please see my earlier posting.

If it's a really cobwebby "barn find" or some leaf-covered "back yard sentinel" whose nooks and crannies had been serving as a safe deposit box for the acorns of several generations of squirrels that you're wanting to scrape the barnacles from and commence its resurrection, then after a good Wisk laundry detergent and water scrub and rinse, allow to dry and commence a thorough rubdown with rags soaked liberally in Marvel Mystery Oil, topped off by the emptying of a can or two of WD-40 all over and into all quarters. I guarantee that whole endeavor will appear FAR more promising in the light of day--or once you've sobered up. That WD-40 will also evict any wasps in residence.
« Last Edit: April 30, 2018, 03:10:28 am by Bilgemaster »
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Fragman

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Reply #2 on: April 02, 2018, 08:29:40 pm
I use the Mothers polish as well, but by hand. To keep them looking good, I wipe them down with a wee bit of Jet Lube 12/34. Same goes for the wheels, fork lowers & rear springs. For the paint and chrome I use Turtle Wax Ice. ;)

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bonkers

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Reply #3 on: April 02, 2018, 08:44:33 pm
https://www.autosol.nl/metal-polish
https://www.polijstweb.nl/belgom-alu-250-cc.html
These two above have met some Nortons and Triumphs over the last 40 year and they were all more shining than they ever came out off the shop!

« Last Edit: April 02, 2018, 08:53:32 pm by bonkers »
Before;
Triumph T120- Norton Commando 5x
Triton T150V tripple- BMW R80
BMW R100RS- BMW R100S
BMW R80 G/S- BMW R80 GS
BMW R100 GS- BMW R80 GS Basic
BMW R100 CS- BMW R80 ST
BMW R NineT- Buell S2
Moto Guzzi V7 Sport- Moto Guzzi Le Mans 1 Ice Blue
Current;
Stealth Black C5 RE- BMW R100 Monolever 7 rock


Bilgemaster

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Reply #4 on: April 02, 2018, 09:52:53 pm
https://www.autosol.nl/metal-polish
https://www.polijstweb.nl/belgom-alu-250-cc.html
These two above have met some Nortons and Triumphs over the last 40 year and they were all more shining than they ever came out off the shop!

Agreed. That Plain Jane old school generic AutoSol Metal Polish in the toothpaste tube is pretty good on most all metals, and also leaves your breath "wintery fresh!" Oddly, though it's everywhere in Europe, you seldom see it here on the shelves in America except at gourmet prices. You can get it on eBay though for a decent price. It's a paste, so you might want to grab that box of Q-tips while you're at it to chase out those "pasty crudlets" from the nooks and crannies.

I see that AutoSol has since branched off into a whole new realm of arcane and hyper-specific cleaners, particularly for nautical purposes, such as "Bird and Spider Stain Removal Spray."  Trust me: Forego the pricey nautical wonder potions. Instead, raid the laundry room. Wisk laundry detergent does the trick every time to brighten up a dingy dinghy. 

This all reminds me of a now long-defunct Library Reference Email List I once subscribed to at the pre-web dawn of the Internet called Stumpers-L.  There librarians could post questions received from patrons for which they could find no source for an answer. Perhaps my proudest moment as a participant was when I was able to authoritatively answer the question, "How do you clean bat guano stains from vinyl lawn furniture?", along with a citation for a published source, which was considered good form.  But then, doesn't that make you kinda wonder? I mean, if they've got bat shit all over their lawn furniture, just what the hell kind of satanic weenie roasts are they throwing in that back yard, Eh? Oh, by the way, the answer is, "Scrub vigorously with a paste of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide", as described in the analogous "How to clean bird excrement stains from vinyl siding" entry of Consumer Reports Books' How to Clean Practically Anything. (Mount Vernon, N.Y. : Consumers Union, Yonkers, NY : Consumer Reports ©1986- ). So, party on you Goth weirdos, and toss a little Sauerkraut on mine, OK?


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« Last Edit: April 03, 2018, 12:25:16 am by Bilgemaster »
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Jako

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Reply #5 on: April 02, 2018, 10:22:39 pm
I have the same problem as I live in a corrosive environment alongside a saltwater river ,  I could polish my cases like mirrors but they wouldn't last a week . So far the best solution I'v found is BIG WHITE  hi temp paste wax, a synthetic wax that you apply after polishing with Autosol or mothers . It slows down the oxidation considerably and makes it much easier to maintain the shine .
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ace.cafe

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Reply #6 on: April 04, 2018, 01:01:44 pm
I concur with the paste wax suggestion.

I have used regular car wax successfully.
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rtillery02

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Reply #7 on: April 04, 2018, 03:41:11 pm
Hhmmm, haven't even considered a paste wax on aluminum'inum, I've got some old turtle paste wax stowed in my cabinet somewhere, the lighter fogging type oil just doesn't help much. I'll wax it up & see where that goes, Thank you for the info. fellas', I'll holler back when the results are in.
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Arizoni

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Reply #8 on: April 04, 2018, 05:52:37 pm
Using auto wax on aluminum is a good idea.

Aluminum is a very active metal and without some sort of protection from the air, it quickly oxidizes forms aluminum oxide.
This oxide is not very reflective so the appearance becomes dull.

Aluminum also can react to water and the corrosion can make spots on its surface.

Wax protects it from both of these problems and the better auto waxes made today can last for quite a long time.  Waxing should be redone at least every month though.
It's not really made to withstand the high temperatures engines get up to.
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