[jentabeling]

I have another question, this time regarding my electric start 
I have read through a bunch of threads and saw some good stuff on the one @sheldogg posted. But need some further defining for my situation.
I bought the bike 1.5 years ago (Bullet Electra, AVL, 2008, 6600 miles) and was simply told it was kick start only. But I did notice shortly after that there not only is a start button but also there is a starter cable that had been disconnected. I have no idea why they did this in the first place BUT what is then obvious is the starter motor is missing.
So I can assume the starter motor went bad and they just removed it or could it have been something else?
I looked/traced wires and they all appear to be intact and there is a   
Solenoid Starter Relay Switch there as well.
I would really like to have e-start in case of stall at stop light or just plain don't feel like kicking it (it really can be frustrating for me to start sometimes).
Would it be safe to assume the two things I should buy are:
1) Starter motor, found here: https://www.ebay.com/i/253416298247?chn=ps
2) and just in case the one on bike is broke a Universal Motorcycle Solenoid Starter Relay Switch With Multiple Connectors, found here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universal-Motorcycle-Solenoid-Starter-Relay-Switch-With-Multiple-Connectors/332517141993?hash=item4d6b90ede9:g:pSkAAOSwxOFaV2lL&vxp=mtr
Is there anything else that would likely be needed? Or some reason this is a bad idea?
Attached a couple of pics as well.
Thanks in advance!
Jen

[DanB]

The E start for the AVLs and other non EFI has always been a weak point. It’s the sprague clutch in the primary chest that fails. This thing...
http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/4688/Drive_Cover_&_Sprag_Clutch_Assembly

So, the previous owner most likely removed all the estart stuff: motor, solenoid, sprague, etc... because it failed or as preventative. 

You can remove that cap in photo 2 and see if the sprague bits are still in there; the big question if it still is: is it any good?

I removed it all as well. I didn’t have a problem (yet) but I wanted to shed some serious weight. Loose the starter and replace with small LiPo battery... makes me go fast  (at least in my head).

With a little of tuning, you can get that bike to be a 1 kick starter. IMHO leave it as kick only.

[DanB]

Should have added, I have the starter motor and solenoid in a box somewhere... I could part with it.

[Arizoni]

DanB
Isn't the sprag clutch on the engine crankshaft on the AVL's?

On the UCE's it is located on the crankshaft and there is a gear train that runs from the starter motor down to it.

If the AVL is similar I would expect to see either a gear (if the previous owner just removed the starter motor) or a open space after removing the starter motor pilot cover if the previous owner removed all of the starter drive gears.

It does sound like the sprag clutch probably failed on the bike.
I don't know why anyone would go to the work to remove the starter motor and plug the hole if the starter was still working (unless they were into racing and wanted to remove some weight?).

[DanB]

Hi Arizoni,

No... the sprague essentially is off an idler gear adjacent to the crank gear in the primary. That lump upfront on the IB primaries and AVL is the additive stuff RE designed. Number of folks open the primary and pull out the bad sprague and then just plug the hole up top.

[tooseevee]

The E start for the AVLs and other non EFI has always been a weak point. It’s the sprague clutch in the primary chest that fails. This thing...
http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/4688/Drive_Cover_&_Sprag_Clutch_Assembly

So, the previous owner most likely removed all the estart stuff: motor, solenoid, sprague, etc... because it failed or as preventative. 

You can remove that cap in photo 2 and see if the sprague bits are still in there; the big question if it still is: is it any good?

I removed it all as well. I didn’t have a problem (yet) but I wanted to shed some serious weight. Loose the starter and replace with small LiPo battery... makes me go fast  (at least in my head).

             Dan,

                      I think you and Arizoni just differ in what the "sprag" or the "sprag clutch" means.

                       The sprag (or sprag clutch) is Part #11 in the Hitchcocks exploded view, not the gear at the starter end of the gear train nor the gear train.

                      Am I right? (ducking down)   

[DanB]

Yeah 2CV, you may be right. I reread the thread. 11 is the sprague I was referring to. I took it out with the clutch gear works. If the OP wants to put the estart back in, he needs to make sure it’s still there.

[Adrian II]

I removed it all as well. I didn’t have a problem (yet) but I wanted to shed some serious weight. Loose the starter and replace with small LiPo battery... makes me go fast  (at least in my head).

Once the starter motor has been binned/junked/placed in deep storage you can save a bit more weight by changing the inner primary cover for an Indian home market 350 Electra item (later TCI kick-start version, not the earlier CDI type).



You have to drill and tap 3 additional 8mm holes in the drive side of the crankcase as kick-start and electric start inner cases have their mounting holes in different positions (same as with the C.I. models). The inner cover is available in right foot shift and left foot shift versions - well, sort of available, they were quite rare last time I tried to buy one...

A.

[Arizoni]

             Dan,

                      I think you and Arizoni just differ in what the "sprag" or the "sprag clutch" means.

                       The sprag (or sprag clutch) is Part #11 in the Hitchcocks exploded view, not the gear at the starter end of the gear train nor the gear train.

                      Am I right? (ducking down)   

Yes.  The sprag clutch is part number 11 in Hitchcock's drawing.

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/4688/Drive_Cover_&_Sprag_Clutch_Assembly


The "sprag clutch" is the assembly with the sprags that wedge between the drive and driven surfaces in it.

In the case of the AVL, one of the gears (#13) has a surface on it that drives or provides power to the sprag clutch sprags.
The other gear (#9) has a surface on it the sprags wedge against to drive it thereby powering the gear to drive the next gear.

In order to operate, the sprag clutch and both gears are needed.

(For those that don't know, a sprag clutch is a device that transmits power or runs free depending on the speed of the driven and drive surfaces.
If the drive surface is trying to run faster than the driven surface the clutch sprags lock up wedging themselves between the two surfaces.
If the driven surface is trying to run faster than the drive surface, the sprags "lay down" and release their wedging action and allow the driven surface to freely move faster.)