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Author Topic: Electrical Problem/Shorting Out  (Read 1817 times)

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crkennedy1

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on: February 17, 2018, 08:58:37 pm
My 2007 Electra X keeps getting electrical surges and it either burns out all of the light bulbs and the headlight, or it blows a fuse.  Every shop I take the bike to can't seem to fix it, because nobody around here knows how to work on a RE.
Today I went to start the bike after replacing a couple of light bulbs, and there was electrical smoke coming from under the seat.  I removed the seat, and followed the smoke.  It looked like the smoke was coming from the following part: T.C.I UNIT-NTI  0014 (see photo RE1).  When I unplugged it, it looked like the electrical problem is coming from the green 2-pronged plug on the left side (see photo RE2).  If you look closer at the unit, you can see that the outside of the 2-pronged plug is starting to melt (see photo RE3).
Has anybody experienced a similar problem?  Is this unit just something that needs to be replaced, or do you think it's something more complex?  Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.  Thank you, Christopher
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Adrian II

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Reply #1 on: February 18, 2018, 08:05:13 am
What you're describing sounds more like the regulator/rectifier unit failing than the TCI black box, which is perfectly possible on an 11 year-old motorcycle. If it has let the magic smoke out, a generic three-phase replacement (3 yellow wires, one red and one black) is simple enough to fit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Wassell-Solid-State-Three-Phase-Rectifier-Regulator-Max-190W-WW10124W/232196675977?hash=item3610001989:g:6BEAAMXQkl9RbFOL&vxp=mtr

That's not to say you cannot have a failing TCI as well, possibly as the result of the failing regulator/rectifier, there is a newer version available which is green rather than black, and which has a built-in spark delay thingy to protect the sprag clutch on the starter from back-firing on start-up.

A.
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portisheadric

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Reply #2 on: February 18, 2018, 08:14:44 am
The terminals themselves look fairly clean and free from arcing and therefore probably not the source of the problem itself.

 I suffered an electrical [shoddy workmanship] fault with my REG/REC connector block.
The tang on one of the female spade connectors had not been fully engaged inside its half of the block allowing it to be pushed back out and only make a light connection with its male counterpart inside when both halves of the connection were locked together. This eventually melted one female half of the block from constant electrical arcing and generated heat. 

A good tight fit of the metal components is absolutely necessary to prevent any electrical problems, as is a good earth from the battery to the frame and on any other earth.   As mentioned the problem could just be component failure.
A multimeter and this handy guide is likely to be your best friend...

 http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf


crkennedy1

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Reply #3 on: February 18, 2018, 09:55:59 am
Thanks guys.  I'll carefully review your comments and see if I can get this corrected.  Any other comments or advice is certainly welcomed.
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DanB

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Reply #4 on: February 18, 2018, 09:06:58 pm
I agree with adrian. Check out the RR first. There’s a couple of good threads on this forum on how to check and what to replace with.

Let’s know what you find!
Suppose I were an idiot, and suppose I were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself. ... Mark Twain
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crkennedy1

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Reply #5 on: February 20, 2018, 12:24:26 pm
Gents, I am getting ready to order a new regulator/rectifier unit. Attached is a photo of the part.  Is this what we're talking about replacing?
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tooseevee

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Reply #6 on: February 20, 2018, 12:57:49 pm
Gents, I am getting ready to order a new regulator/rectifier unit. Attached is a photo of the part.  Is this what we're talking about replacing?

            Yup. Those fins are to bleed off heat. Good luck.
2008 AVL Classic.Extensive head work by Ace.Ace canister/TM32/Ace manifold.Small open bottle/hot tube removed.Pertronix Coil.Bobber seat.Fed mandates removed.Battery in right side case.Decomp&all doodads removed.'30s Lucas taillight/7" headlight.


crkennedy1

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Reply #7 on: February 21, 2018, 10:24:10 am
Gents - here's the latest update.  Since my bike is an RE Electra X 500cc, finding a proper regulator/rectifier unit hasn't been that easy over here in the states.  I finally tracked one down at Baker Motorsports in Fort Worth, Texas, and they have to special order it.  The part should get to me in about 10 days...
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tooseevee

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Reply #8 on: February 21, 2018, 12:22:50 pm
Gents - here's the latest update.  Since my bike is an RE Electra X 500cc, finding a proper regulator/rectifier unit hasn't been that easy over here in the states.  I finally tracked one down at Baker Motorsports in Fort Worth, Texas, and they have to special order it.  The part should get to me in about 10 days...

           Yes. They are our main go to place now. They are the new Classic Motor Works, the main importer of Royal Enfield in the USA and still the sponsors of these forums.
2008 AVL Classic.Extensive head work by Ace.Ace canister/TM32/Ace manifold.Small open bottle/hot tube removed.Pertronix Coil.Bobber seat.Fed mandates removed.Battery in right side case.Decomp&all doodads removed.'30s Lucas taillight/7" headlight.


heloego

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Reply #9 on: February 21, 2018, 09:00:54 pm
Makes me very glad I ordered the last one in stock a couple days ago!  ;D
'18 Bonneville T-100, Blue/White
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crkennedy1

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Reply #10 on: March 11, 2018, 08:27:56 pm
Hi everyone, I wanted to provide you with an update on my search for finding a regulator/rectifier for my Electra X.  The bad news is, Classic Motorworks couldn't locate one.  There is a new RE dealer here in Utah, and he couldn't locate one either.  It sounded like RE just isn't making them anymore.
There's a shop in England that I've ordered parts from in the past that seemed to have all kinds of RE items.  Do any of you know the place I am talking about?
Also, perhaps there's another solution - do any of you know of a different regulator/rectifier that might work? Perhaps I could just splice it into my current wires?  Adrian II suggested one off of eBay.  Do you think that might work? 
Here's another picture of the part.
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Grant Borden

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Reply #11 on: March 11, 2018, 08:37:26 pm
Have you tried to find it at Hitchcocks Motorcycle in England?

[url]http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/home/url]
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Grant Borden

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Reply #12 on: March 11, 2018, 08:41:13 pm
Also have you tried to find it eBay?

Grant
2014 Royal Enfield C5
2008 Kawasaki Concours14
2004 Moto Guzzi EV
1999 MotoGuzzi EV
1993 Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000
1993 BMW K1100LT
1980 BMW R100RS
1980 Vespa P200E
1976 BMW R60/6
1975 BMW R75/6
1973 Yamaha DT250
1969 Kawasaki H1
1956 Allstate 175


Arizoni

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Reply #13 on: March 12, 2018, 06:33:17 pm
I think Hitchcock shows the regulator/rectifier as #2 in this link

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/4691/TCI_System

There seems to be two different styles.  One with a three pin and one with a four pin connector?
Click on the blue #2 to see these.

At 90 Pounds, these are pretty expensive in my opinion and that doesn't include shipping costs.

This Honda CX500 R/R looks like it has three input wires (from the alternator) and two output wires like the RE R/R in the picture above.
It's $18 price looks a lot more appealing to me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-for-Honda-CMX450C-CX500T-CX500D-CX500C-CX500-/391730359728?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
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crkennedy1

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Reply #14 on: March 12, 2018, 07:53:21 pm
Thanks for the lead.  That Honda CX500 R/R looks like it may work.  I think I'll give it a try first and see if it works before spending all that money on the RE part.
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