Author Topic: spoke tension (Read 6815 times)

solg · **on:** January 25, 2018, 09:36:56 pm

does anyone know how much torque the spokes should be adjusted to on 19" wheels?

Ice · **Reply #1 on:** January 26, 2018, 05:04:23 am

There is no torque value for spokes that I know of.

ace.cafe · **Reply #2 on:** January 26, 2018, 04:26:48 pm

Test a known good wheel by tapping the spokes with a metal object, and listen for the tone. It will vary some from spoke to spoke, but it will give a general guide of tension. True up your new wheel so that the ring tone is in the general neighborhood as the known good wheel. Be aware that not all spokes will sound the same on a trued wheel. Just watch out for dull thud spokes.

mrunderhill1975a · **Reply #3 on:** January 26, 2018, 06:18:20 pm

I tried to tension the spokes on my Peugeot bicycle when I was about 12 years old..........it did not go well......ended up looking like a melted vinyl LP record. It seems the most used method is to wobble out your first five wheels, then you start to figure out the process.

motomataya · **Reply #4 on:** January 26, 2018, 06:20:41 pm

As tight as you can get them with a normal spoke wrench. Stop just before you round the nipple, hope you have good feel for that. Do you have a spoke torque wrench? Nice tool but if you have a decent feel not worth the price. What you are looking for as a final product is tension higher then the highest load the spoke sees in use. That will keep the bend from flexing which is the common reason for failure.

solg · **Reply #5 on:** January 26, 2018, 07:48:57 pm

Well, plinking a like minded wheel for tone wont work here as I have all my spokes in bags. Seperated into groups of course. (Plinking is how I did it last time). I had planned on having Buchanan build them for me this time. But my plans took a hard right. I am now looking forward to building them myself .I hear they should be aprox 60in/lb but, not sure about this. I understand Buchanan tags the wheels that they build with what they have been torqued to. I don’t have a spoke torque wrench but for just checking tension I think a 1/4” drive- 1/4” crows foot wrench on my 1/4” torque wrench would work. All I need are the proper torque vaues.

Arizoni · **Reply #6 on:** January 27, 2018, 01:27:49 am

The spokes on my 19" front wheel range from a F to a F# above middle C on a piano or 4th fret on the D string on a guitar.

(Yes, I'm serious.

)

solg · **Reply #7 on:** January 27, 2018, 01:32:06 pm

Well, after doing a little more research I decided to call a prominent wheel builder out in Cali. Their recommendation for a 2008 Royal Enfield is 25-30in/lb front & 30-35in/lb rear. I think what I’ll do is lace and true the wheels untill I get them perfect. Then check tension with the above specs. taking note of how they all ring.

Chuck D · **Reply #8 on:** January 27, 2018, 04:49:57 pm

I've built a few bicycle wheels and trued many. I always go for even spoke tension rather than perfect cosmetic trueness. I think for this reason I rarely ever break spokes. Be aware that as you tighten a particular spoke, you are also affecting tension of any spoke that it crosses over. Go slow; 1/4 turn at a time. Also be careful not to tighten so much that the spoke protrudes through the nipple.

Kevin Mahoney · **Reply #9 on:** January 27, 2018, 05:13:39 pm

My first and only attempt to respoke a wheel went about as well as the time my mother tried to give me a haircut.

hpwaco · **Reply #10 on:** January 27, 2018, 06:18:58 pm

Checked the spokes on my 14GT after breaking it in and a number of them didn't "ring" and didn't have any adjustment left. More RE quality work. The dealer mechanic was also a dull thud. Fortunately none have come loose or broken.

Vince · **Reply #11 on:** January 27, 2018, 06:37:16 pm

You need to have some kind of a jig. An easy one to make is to mount the assembled wheel on the bike without brakes. Clamp or tape a pencil to the forks or swing arm as the truing gauge.
Lubricate the threads with oil or anti-seize. Thread the nipples by HAND until they are all about the same distance on the threads and the slack is taken out.
Now go around the wheel ONE spoke at a time, turning each spoke ONLY 1/4 turn. Two or three passes will usually get the spokes snug enough to start seriously truing.
Using the gauge, look to see how far or close the wheel comes on the side, and up and down. Find the point furthest away on the side and tighten the six or so spokes on that side of the rim that will pull the rim closer to the gauge, centered in that area of the rim, 1/4 turn. Go around the wheel working both sides until the spokes ring clear and crisp when you tap them with the wrench. However, spokes that touch each other in crossing can sound dull, but differently from actual loose spokes. You have to learn to listen to the tone.
At the same time you are truing side to side, you have to check for up and down. Find the high spots with your gauge and tighten the six or so spokes in that area on both sides of the rim.
If necessary, you should loosen spokes so you can tighten others to true the rim. Do NOT over torque to try to true it.
TAKE YOUR TIME. The average home mechanic will probably spend 2 to 3 hours to get it right.

solg · **Reply #12 on:** January 28, 2018, 01:46:18 pm

Even tension and tone. You mean like this?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pr_yaxdeD4w

solg · **Reply #13 on:** January 28, 2018, 02:06:28 pm

Seriously though. Thanks fellas for all the input. I have taken note. Im sure that lacing and truing these wheels will turn out great. It may take some time but when I’m done I’ll post a photo

solg · **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2018, 12:45:04 pm

Done! They didn't turn out too bad either. It turned out that tightening them up as much as you can without going crazy or stripping the nipples is at the upper limits of the proper torque specs. They also all have similar tone when tapping them.Dink,Dink,Dink. Not a Donk among them.

Blltrdr · **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2018, 04:44:47 pm

Did you true the wheel also?

solg · **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2018, 01:27:28 am

Chuck D · **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2018, 12:57:07 pm

Quote from: solg on February 22, 2018, 12:45:04 pm

Done! They didn't turn out too bad either. It turned out that tightening them up as much as you can without going crazy or stripping the nipples is at the upper limits of the proper torque specs. They also all have similar tone when tapping them.Dink,Dink,Dink. Not a Donk among them.

Sweet!
Nice work. They'll look great on the bike. Real "proper".

solg · **Reply #18 on:** February 24, 2018, 02:33:48 pm

Quote from: Chuck D on February 23, 2018, 12:57:07 pm

Sweet!
Nice work. They'll look great on the bike. Real "proper".

Thanks Chuck. I would agree. "proper" pretty much describes how they look on the bike. After some direction from Chumma I went with WM3 rims. (man that guy knows his stuff) That wider rim fit the bike just fine. It makes the wheels look more well, proper! And,it turns out that Dunlop Recommends WM3 rims for their K70s

Stanley · **Reply #19 on:** February 24, 2018, 05:48:43 pm

Beautiful wheel!
Wish my bike was worth that attention. The stock rims need a lot of weight to balance the heavy welds.

Bill Harris · **Reply #20 on:** February 24, 2018, 10:45:29 pm

A very good looking wheel. Nicely done!

Royal Enfield people are good people

Cheers,
Bill

Chuck D · **Reply #21 on:** February 24, 2018, 11:50:38 pm

Quote from: solg on February 24, 2018, 02:33:48 pm

Thanks Chuck. I would agree. "proper" pretty much describes how they look on the bike. After some direction from Chumma I went with WM3 rims. (man that guy knows his stuff) That wider rim fit the bike just fine. It makes the wheels look more well, proper! And,it turns out that Dunlop Recommends WM3 rims for their K70s

WM3's, same as mine. Worked fine with my AM26's too.
And man. I don't what Excell uses to coat them but they stay shiny bright no matter what. Just a wipe with a soft cloth and they look like new.