Author Topic: Carberry UCE vibration reduction plate (Read 14255 times)

Narada · **on:** January 16, 2018, 10:46:05 pm

https://lm.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.carberrymotorcycles.com%2FAccessories.php&h=ATNMuOO8sA14xZEu3yJzgZNK_t43pWqgRdu0iDGXhX6Igbp4EzoAIY2XeLuZAf54Y96YaQRtlQGUXFAsnxu22dUYOXSi6IhgujJkrz9_v5qZpMWLuX6C0mKEl6SRgtri8kTNddF9ON51PZDqvACdR1W-23yqYd4vMAc&enc=AZPTqsooyIgnNndiPikrO-bYPtFAvU40RkHvlqzt0S4bvBX0rfwsPhjD1H5DkcTmTZQ_3TWe_1mgJpbKYz1eX-v7TUS6gMkWEK0NwUwL7b3IuDn8uook49wd4VgA4cLWo0Juq1Mg1N9MZzXA3nSSHdMIsObbMErOVcMgFBQIvRvsND_XuW03Jp4PKVio-w6ZtEU&s=1

AmBraCol · **Reply #1 on:** January 16, 2018, 11:29:55 pm

http://www.carberrymotorcycles.com/Accessories.php

Here's the link without going through FB...

Narada · **Reply #2 on:** January 16, 2018, 11:56:18 pm

Thanks for the link Paul, I still can't understand that FB stuff!

Looks like an interesting product. Indian price 3,000 rupees or about $47.00 USD. I would buy one just to try it and I dont even have much vibration!

Jako · **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2018, 06:55:26 am

I like the look of this as long as it's made accurately.

longstrokeclassic · **Reply #4 on:** January 17, 2018, 09:47:21 am

and you don't have to butcher your filler cap after installation

Kevin Mahoney · **Reply #5 on:** January 17, 2018, 04:24:07 pm

This looks like a good idea. Carberry makes decent stuff

hpwaco · **Reply #6 on:** January 17, 2018, 07:08:36 pm

Would this fit on GT? Video was on a 350. Unfortunately also says out of stock.

Narada · **Reply #7 on:** January 17, 2018, 10:16:19 pm

If it is for a UCE, I believe it would fit any UCE. Perhaps even the Carberry V-twin?

It is unfortunate that they are out of stock, and odd that the video was from a current ad on Facebook...

Nevertheless, I put my name in on the email link to get one as soon as they are available. They do say "Many more coming soon" at the bottom of ad.

I will be happy to post results when I have some!

heloego · **Reply #8 on:** January 18, 2018, 03:20:16 pm

Yep, the "Out of Stock" notation caught my eye, too.
I'm guessing here, but if Carberry manufactures the item he probably makes them on a "first-come/first served" basis, rather than make a whole lot and then hope they sell.

Narada · **Reply #9 on:** January 29, 2018, 09:47:56 pm

My interest has been confirmed by Carberry, and I have been promised one as soon as they become available.

Shipping to WA state was quoted at 1,300 rupees or about $21.00 + estimated $47.00 for part.

Although my vibration is minimal, I am intrigued. Can't wait to test it out!

heloego · **Reply #10 on:** February 02, 2018, 02:47:03 pm

Let us know as soon as you get it so we get an idea of the lead time for delivery here in the U.S., please.

I wouldn't mind trying one.

Narada · **Reply #11 on:** February 02, 2018, 04:56:49 pm

I paid for one a couple days ago, which they had left over from the last batch, new batch coming soon... $70.00 total with shipping.

I am assuming it shipped but have no confirmation on that yet.

Patiently waiting...

Fragman · **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2018, 10:42:12 pm

I'm eager to see the quality of the piece & how well it functions in yer motor. I'll order one up if all goes good.

Guaire · **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2018, 12:02:59 am

I signed up for notification when they get inventory.

Narada · **Reply #14 on:** March 18, 2018, 02:52:27 am

Here is a pretty cool video review by a regular guy who installs a plate on his CGT. He is from somewhere very tropical... It's about 11 minutes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pX4A83IJTuk

I'm installing mine now and was checking for details in the Carberry installation video. On that video, I noticed the alignment dowels are removed by Carberry. Mine had to be lightly tapped with wrench to go over dowels.

Now seeing how Carberry does it, I'm pulling my dowels out too. They must contribute to vibration or adversely load the new crank bearing?

I also noticed how on the Carberry installation video the plate is only tightened with a regular hand held 90 degree allen wrench. Engine side cover tightened with allen T-handle. For the record, I use a large bendable 3/8" drive ratchet and allen head sockets. Hand tigtening, probably more than the video shows.

Narada · **Reply #15 on:** March 18, 2018, 04:04:56 am

And in the video, the crank nut is tightened by rolling the engine over with an open end wrench?

I been using an impact gun with locktite!

I'm still (carefully) using my impact and locktite.

Cam plate came back off dowels by hand too, so they didn't seem to be a problem, but what do I know compared to the experts? I took 'em out!

Will start and take a short ride tomorrow.

Fragman · **Reply #16 on:** March 19, 2018, 12:29:03 am

The goofy bit in the Carberry video was the guy dumping the used oil from the catch pan back into the motor.

I reckon the bugger never put a fresh case gasket on the cover before reinstalling it. But hey, it's a quicky demo vid and not a proper shop tutorial.

I'm eager to see how the unit works out on yer ride.

Jako · **Reply #17 on:** March 19, 2018, 07:30:37 am

Quote from: Fragman on March 19, 2018, 12:29:03 am

The goofy bit in the Carberry video was the guy dumping the used oil from the catch pan back into the motor. I reckon the bugger never put a fresh case gasket on the cover before reinstalling it. But hey, it's a quicky demo vid and not a proper shop tutorial.

I'm eager to see how the unit works out on yer ride.

I'm guilty , If my oils not due for changing when I need to open the case I drain it into a clean container and reuse it . I also reuse the case gaskets if not damaged, I must have reused my right side gasket about 10 times now and never had a leak.

Narada · **Reply #18 on:** March 19, 2018, 09:01:59 pm

Went out for a quick spin last night and found that even though my bike had no problem with vibration before, no handlebar or foot peg issues, the new vibration reduction plate tangibly reduced the vibrations of the bike.

I still have vibration, as an Enfield should, I did not want to lose that, but it now feels noticeably smoother at idle and while riding.

There is less vibration at the handlebars, very little now, and just an overall smoothness that makes the bike feel as even more of a pleasure to ride than before.

I only went a few miles, but so far so good. The only thing I wonder about is reliability of the roller bearing.

I think they're generally pretty reliable, our connecting rods have them and those are indestructable (can't say bullet proof if they're part of a Bullet.

).

As long as those rollers can hang in there (and they should) I like it!

As far as oil and gaskets (and the little oil o-ring)... I re-use 'em until the auspicious replacement moment arrives!

gashousegorilla · **Reply #19 on:** March 19, 2018, 11:52:04 pm

Nice write up Narada ! Thanks. Good info here, and worth it it seems. Has me wondering about the balance job on those rotor's as well...

Fragman · **Reply #20 on:** March 20, 2018, 12:05:11 am

Good news Narada fer sure on how the reduction plate performs on our motors. I'm ordering one up right quick.

I reckon there won't be much worry with the roller bearing as long as it's of good quality.

Also good to know that the case gaskets can handle numerous recycles fer us thrifty folk. (I'll still have spares on hand though.)

Jako · **Reply #21 on:** March 20, 2018, 10:02:27 am

I like the principal of this but removing the dowels ( for alignment) concerns me. How well will the 3 small bolts stand up over time without the dowels to take the load and hold it inline. Why are the dowel holes in the new plate if they can't be used ?

Fragman · **Reply #22 on:** March 21, 2018, 03:14:48 am

Good point on that Jako. If the new plate can fit with the dowels in place, then I'd be using 'em. I'd want a snug, tap on fit to be sure.

rtillery02 · **Reply #23 on:** April 19, 2018, 06:25:19 pm

I was wondering if the payoff was gonna be worth the effort of the job, but a tangible/noticeable difference is enough to sell me on the investment...good write up. I can see where the dowel pins might be a problem when I'm decreasing the clearance by closing the gap with a bushed bearing, stabilizing the plate WAS their job, now the bearing needs to be centered on the shaft as well. They probably didn't factor that upgrade in during production. Thanks Again for the great report.

JVS · **Reply #24 on:** April 20, 2018, 09:47:19 am

I thought we bought these bikes knowing that vibration is part of the adventure

There are various reviews on YouTube now about the plate, suggesting equal amounts of positive and negative experiences. It appears that the plate is 'effective' at higher speeds only - around 55-60mph. Other than that there is not much difference at idle / cruising speeds.

One popular Bullet mech. posted a vid where he checked how the plate does at idle, suggesting it doesn't do much. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIltX7AVepM

wildbill · **Reply #25 on:** April 21, 2018, 03:15:56 am

I actually watched that video and wasn't really happy with his report and left a comment 2 weeks back in the feedback under "WARRO"

I bought one of these for say $90AU delivered to Aust and rode the bike a couple of times with it on and noticed an immediate difference in the reduction of the vibe level. plus you don't have to ride far either.
no it didn't get rid of it totally and over the past 5 years neither did extra heavy bar end weights/ chainsaw anti vibe gloves or sand in the bars do much either...LOL
but on both runs I tried it without my anti vibe gloves I did notice the vibes were down quite a bit. now take into account I always give a honest report on what I buy and the $$$ doesn't matter so if it was shit -i'd just say frigg'in rubbish and not worth the trouble so stay away.
but I think in my case it was worth a hit for $90 and I think you could spend more elsewhere and get less. plus I bet if this was made in the USA or AUST or the UK you'd be paying $200 or more and it would be no better - so what do you expect!
you really have to get the bike out on the road and run it under normal riding conditions to see what I mean. I actually told a member I thought it was pretty good.
meanwhile for me that may be a while. when I had the head off and put it back on I had to re-fit the temp sender at the back of the cylinder.
anyway to cut a long story short it broke off and although its out of the head now -thread and all - no euro4 temp sender in aust and it has to be ordered in...

no idea how long that will take but I have tried several sources to no avail.
so although I didn't get to do a really big test on the vibration plate for what I paid for it I did notice a difference so that's all that matters to me.
now if the cost worries you or your strapped for cash ...still buy it!...LOL things couldn't be that bad!
I fitted it with the pins pulled out as per instructions but with mine -there were no instruction...LOL
the big question -would I buy it again? yes! it's not perfect but it helps and for the price - no-one is being ripped!

Rattlebattle · **Reply #26 on:** April 22, 2018, 02:19:26 pm

I believe that one of the most likely reasons that UCE engines vary in the amount of vibration produced is the accuracy to which the crank/rod/piston are balanced in respect to the designed balance factor. Roger Slater, of erstwhile Laverda fame and also the original importer of the old Indian 350s to the UK years ago, has just written a few articles on improving a stock C5. The most interesting part is where he dismantled his low mileage engine to establish what balance factor he had on his C5 compared with what it should be. It was significantly adrift. He therefore corrected it by drilling holes in his flywheel, fitting them with brass bungs and then removing metal from the bungs until he achiev d the correct balance factor. Note that this is different on the CGT. Result: one smooth C5. I get the impression that they just assemble the crankshaft at the factory and make no attempt to achieve the designed balance factor. This cannot be 100% on a single without a balance shaft (why the Himalayan is so smooth) but it would be good if the factory could at least consistently deliver the designed compromise. That is not to denigrate Carberry’s efforts, just to comment on what I believe is the major source of variation in vibration between identical UCE engines.

ace.cafe · **Reply #27 on:** April 22, 2018, 11:45:51 pm

Quote from: Rattlebattle on April 22, 2018, 02:19:26 pm

I believe that one of the most likely reasons that UCE engines vary in the amount of vibration produced is the accuracy to which the crank/rod/piston are balanced in respect to the designed balance factor. Roger Slater, of erstwhile Laverda fame and also the original importer of the old Indian 350s to the UK years ago, has just written a few articles on improving a stock C5. The most interesting part is where he dismantled his low mileage engine to establish what balance factor he had on his C5 compared with what it should be. It was significantly adrift. He therefore corrected it by drilling holes in his flywheel, fitting them with brass bungs and then removing metal from the bungs until he achiev d the correct balance factor. Note that this is different on the CGT. Result: one smooth C5. I get the impression that they just assemble the crankshaft at the factory and make no attempt to achieve the designed balance factor. This cannot be 100% on a single without a balance shaft (why the Himalayan is so smooth) but it would be good if the factory could at least consistently deliver the designed compromise. That is not to denigrate Carberry’s efforts, just to comment on what I believe is the major source of variation in vibration between identical UCE engines.

You have the right general idea, but it is actually worse than that because they don't get the crankshaft running true enough either.

Rattlebattle · **Reply #28 on:** April 23, 2018, 05:41:03 pm

Oh dear! So, really, isn’t the answer to have the bottom end built fitted properly? Isn’t anything else only really dealing with the symptoms, not the cause? Just asking.

ace.cafe · **Reply #29 on:** April 23, 2018, 06:01:37 pm

Quote from: Rattlebattle on April 23, 2018, 05:41:03 pm

Oh dear! So, really, isn’t the answer to have the bottom end built fitted properly? Isn’t anything else only really dealing with the symptoms, not the cause? Just asking.

They vary from one to the next. Some are okay, some will shake your back teeth. Depends on what you have.

no bs · **Reply #30 on:** April 23, 2018, 08:14:42 pm

wil bill, what's the difference between a euro4 sender and the one I have collecting dust off my 2011 g5?

wildbill · **Reply #31 on:** April 24, 2018, 02:09:12 am

new version looks like this. don't really know how it happened BUT it did happen...lol I just tightened it a bit and it snapped completely off right where the threaded part meets the hex block and party over.

no bs · **Reply #32 on:** April 24, 2018, 03:04:00 am

yeah, looks like a long pigtail. different harness. mine doesn't have the wire attached to the sensor.but being a 2 pin connector, perhaps a simple splice attaching my sensor to your harness?

Mikko H · **Reply #33 on:** April 27, 2018, 09:54:55 am

I installed this plate during winter and after a few rides I actually thought that the vibes were worse, so I replaced the original plate. But after reading positive reviews, I wanted to give it another chance. Only difference between installations were that the second time I used a torque wrench for generator nut. Now I feel that vibrations are noticeably smoother, and I'm really glad that I bought it.

rtillery02 · **Reply #34 on:** April 27, 2018, 01:31:06 pm

Yeah, the vibration is a "quality" that's kinda characteristic to a Bullet, but if the plate will 'stabilize' the crankshaft a bit to get longer life from the bottom end, I'm all for it.