Author Topic: Strange noise  (Read 5548 times)

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ssg

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on: January 15, 2018, 03:13:44 pm
If I ride single there is no noise ( or, if there is anything-it's just negligible).
If there are two on bike, there is clicking noise -it is lesser when the speed is lower around 20 km but increases along with speed.
If there are three the noise is maximum.
I guess it's the chain slackness issue. I have kept chain slack 30 mm (according to service manual 25 mm-30 mm).
Is it correct?
I saw in a YouTube videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4IZ6diJP9w&t=181s it is 4.5 cm.
Again I read in a thread here recommending 2" slack.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2018, 03:16:56 pm by ssg »


Arizoni

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Reply #1 on: January 15, 2018, 06:52:04 pm
IMO, 2 inches of chain slack is way too much.

Assuming you haven't changed it and your going to ride 2 up you should really change the rear spring pre-load to the maximum position.

The adjuster is on the shock absorber just below the spring and it should be adjusted to compress the spring as much as possible.

The adjuster on my RE has 4 positions and it came from the factory at the next to the lowest (softest).
The adjustment is made by rotating the collar clockwise, looking down from the top towards the swing arm.

Although there is a special tool to do this adjustment, many have found that a large screw driver and a hammer can be used to rotate the collar.
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High On Octane

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Reply #2 on: January 15, 2018, 07:14:17 pm
Pending how many miles are on the bike, indirect INSPECT the sprockets and make sure the teeth aren't wallowed out or hooked.  Badly worn sprockets will definitely cause popping and clicking.  But may be as simple as an adjustment issue.  Excessive side play in the chain can cause noise too.

EDIT:  Sorry, my phone's autocorrect is atrocious.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2018, 01:20:42 am by High On Octane »
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Bilgemaster

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Reply #3 on: January 15, 2018, 10:14:39 pm
Pending how many miles are on the bike, indirect the sprockets and make sure the teeth aren't wallowed out or hooked.  Badly worn sprockets will definitely cause popping and clicking.  But may be as simple as an adjustment issue.  Excessive side play in the chain can cause noise too.

I believe his autocorrect may have "fixed" High On Octane's post to read "indirect the sprockets" instead of "inspect the sprockets", and that is a fine idea.  It is probably impossible for someone else to diagnose your clicking without hearing it, but here is how you might be able to do it yourself: Go somewhere quiet, and put the bike up on its center stand--maybe on a board to be able to get the rear wheel up a little higher. Weigh the front end down or have a buddy hold it down so the rear wheel can spin freely. Listen carefully while you spin it, and you may hear the source of the clicking. Check if the alignment of the rear and front wheels is true and straight.  A piece of string or a very long straight bar or length of wood held alongside the wheels by you and your buddy may help you to better determine this.  If it is really off-center you will not need laser-based measuring equipment to see if the rear wheel is askew.  This might cause the chain to "tock-tock-tock" off the chainwheel as it travels, especially under greater load.

While you are there staring at your rear wheel, carefully inspect the rear hub's drive sprocket teeth looking for badly worn, chipped or even missing teeth.  If its teeth are badly worn and
'hook-shaped", it should be replaced. They are not usually too expensive. Rear drive sprockets usually wear much faster than the smaller typically harder steel drive sprockets at the forward end of the drive chain, driven by the clutch assembly, but if you can examine it easily, perhaps with the help of a iittle mirror and flashlight, now might be a good time to do that. It is usually best practice to replace both drive sprockets and chain at the same time, but you can sometimes get away with just a fresh chain. Still, a badly worn sprocket will greatly accelerate the wear of even a brand new drive chain and vice versa. Now examine the drive chain itself. Does it have uneven up-and-down slack through its run? (Is the slack an inch or so in one spot and much more in another?) Could a roller or three even be missing? Now pull the chain side to side. If the slack side-to-side is more than about the length of a sprocket tooth, it needs to go. When in doubt, replace it. If you can, replace both the chain AND both drive sprockets.

The above will probably solve your clicking problem, but it is also possible you have a bad wheel bearing that is objecting to your bumping along down the road with 3 or 4 riders and the village goat wearing its ceremonial hat aboard. There are three bearings, but most likely it would be the one in the brake drum. You may need to pull it apart anyway to replace the brake drum and final drive gear, but before that, try gripping the tire and moving it side-to-side. If there's a lot of play at the hub you may need to investigate further, or just bring the wheel to a decent Enfield shop for a proper rebuild.  Bearings can be a pain in the ass unless you have the right tools.

Good luck!
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India. Yet it squeaks by here in Virginia.

 


ssg

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Reply #4 on: January 16, 2018, 12:17:42 am
Thanks everyone.
The chain set is relatively new and the teeth of rear sprocket are normal.
If I rotate chain clockwise then there is no noise but if I do it anti clockwise then I hear kind of metallic noise as if it’s touching something.But the mechanics are saying it’s not toching anything.
The spokes are tight,the chain slack kept to 3cm ,cleaned and lubricated.
The mechanics are not finding any bad link either.It’s frustrating as we are unable to find the root of such annoying “chick chick” noise when there are two persons riding.
The rear shock absorbers play fine and kept at the softer end.
I asked the mechanic to change the chain set but he is saying that won’t help as your chain looks fine.


High On Octane

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Reply #5 on: January 16, 2018, 01:28:21 am
Sounds like your front and or rear sprockets are hooked.  But generally speaking, it is normal for there be slightly more audible noise rolling backwards.  But there should not be any clicking.  What setting on the chain adjusters is your chain set at to have "proper tension"?  And did you visually inspect the front sprocket with the chain on or off the bike?  Hooked sprockets will eat up a new chain in no time flat.
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ssg

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Reply #6 on: January 16, 2018, 03:45:48 am
Thanks.
The metallic noise comes (rotating rear tyre anti-clockwise) when the bike is on centre stand but this disappears when the bike is on tyres.


Bilgemaster

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Reply #7 on: January 16, 2018, 08:35:07 am
Thanks.
The metallic noise comes (rotating rear tyre anti-clockwise) when the bike is on centre stand but this disappears when the bike is on tyres.

Does the noise seem to emanate from the wheel hub? If so, you might have a fussy bearing in there. If it's hard to localize the source, you could try improvising a sort of "mechanic's stethescope" by holding a cardboard paper towel roll inner or some other hollow cylindrical object to your ear whilst the wheel spins merrily around...Fun for the whole family! Hell, give the goat a go! Just make sure to remove its ceremonial hat first, lest it get fouled in the spokes.

If the chain's run is suspect, then liberal dolloping of it with grease might reveal the rub spot, especially where the grease builds up, having rubbed off the chain. Could be a messy business. Wouldn't do your chain any harm though.
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Richard230

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Reply #8 on: January 16, 2018, 03:19:15 pm
Does the noise seem to emanate from the wheel hub? If so, you might have a fussy bearing in there. If it's hard to localize the source, you could try improvising a sort of "mechanic's stethescope" by holding a cardboard paper towel roll inner or some other hollow cylindrical object to your ear whilst the wheel spins merrily around...Fun for the whole family! Hell, give the goat a go! Just make sure to remove its ceremonial hat first, lest it get fouled in the spokes.

If the chain's run is suspect, then liberal dolloping of it with grease might reveal the rub spot, especially where the grease builds up, having rubbed off the chain. Could be a messy business. Wouldn't do your chain any harm though.

Placing the handle of a screwdriver against your ear works better as a mechanic's stethoscope.
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Bilgemaster

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Reply #9 on: January 16, 2018, 05:39:30 pm
That's a great tip about the screwdriver for running down odd internal engine noises, but I was thinking more along the lines of a directional microphone given the current context, with a spinning wheel, running chain and so forth.
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Bilgemaster

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Reply #10 on: January 16, 2018, 10:15:41 pm
There's the goat to consider, after all...
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ssg

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Reply #11 on: January 17, 2018, 12:40:36 am
Yesterday I visited Royal Enfiels service center and explained the entire problem along with what other mechanics did earlier to resolve the problem.
The RE mechanic asked me to keep the bike at service center and told me that he would call me once the problem was resolved.
I got a call from Royal Enfield after 2 hours and said “Come and test the bike”.
Waw! Those annoying sounds are no more.I asked RE mechanic what they did.
He changed the chain lock and the suspension bush.
Thanks everyone.
I learnt a lesson from this never give your bike to the mechanics who are road side. Trust only RE official mechanics.


Bilgemaster

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Reply #12 on: January 17, 2018, 04:00:03 pm
Glad it's running properly again. Happy trails!
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hpwaco

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Reply #13 on: January 17, 2018, 07:12:23 pm
Is the " chain lock " the master link?   And what is the suspension bush?  Tnx


Bilgemaster

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Reply #14 on: January 26, 2018, 12:28:13 am
Is the " chain lock " the master link?   And what is the suspension bush?  Tnx

I expect that "suspension bush" may be referring to what my 'Spare parts catalog' refers to as a "Bearing Bush - Chain Stay" (section 08-30, part no. 110643). I once had to replace one of these on my Zündapp Bella's swinging arm, which had similar "tock-tock" symptoms under load, now that I think about it. Of course, he might be talking about one of the rubber cush-style bushes pressed into the shock absorber eyes, but that doesn't seem as likely nowadays...They'd just slap on a fresh pair of shocks.
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ssg

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Reply #15 on: January 26, 2018, 03:41:08 am
Is the " chain lock " the master link?   And what is the suspension bush?  Tnx

Chain lock=Master link of chain.
Suspension bush = Part no. 2580038 "Bush" (Swing arm): 2 in nos.