Author Topic: Carburetor to EFI conversion  (Read 10414 times)

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ssg

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on: January 14, 2018, 01:52:49 am
Hello,
There are lots of references regarding EFI to carburetor conversion kit but I don’t find any on EFI conversion kit.
Is it not possible to convert?
Thanks.


Arizoni

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Reply #1 on: January 14, 2018, 04:10:32 am
Anything is possible if you have enough money.  ;D

The only factory carburated UCE's I'm aware of are the 350cc models sold in India.
I don't know if they have an oil temperature sensor or not but one is needed for the ECU on fuel injected models.

Also, the entire throttle body with the pressure sensor and the throttle position sensor are required in addition to the fuel injector.

The fuel injection electric fuel pump would be needed because the fuel injector needs the 46 psi fuel pressure to operate correctly.  These fuel pumps are VERY expensive.

The fuel tank has to have a place for the fuel injector electric fuel pump to be installed.  I'm assuming the carburetor type RE's have this but if they don't, a new fuel tank might be needed.

I'll assume the crank sensor and the 24 magnet sending unit on the crankshaft is the same.

The ECU might need to be changed.  I don't know if they used a simple unit to trigger the ignition coil or not but because the fuel injection ECU is very expensive I doubt that they would have installed it when a carburetor version doesn't need it.

All in all, I don't think the change would be worth the money or the hassle.
« Last Edit: January 14, 2018, 04:12:33 am by Arizoni »
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


ssg

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Reply #2 on: January 14, 2018, 01:16:23 pm
Thank You.


Rattlebattle

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Reply #3 on: January 15, 2018, 05:53:59 pm
The generator is not the same. The original Hitchcock’s EFI to carb kit included a replacement generator, presumably that from a carb UCE, which is why it cost such a lot. The current one uses the original generator and works well enough. Also, I doubt that a carb bike would have a plate in the bottom, just a threaded boss for the fuel tap. Whatever, it wouldn’t be viable cost-wise. I don’t understand why one would want to convert to EFI anyway unless one rides at significantly varying altitudes all the time.
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Arizoni

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Reply #4 on: January 15, 2018, 06:40:02 pm
Oh!
I forgot about the "biggie".

The wiring harness for the carburetor style undoubtedly would not have the wiring for the fuel pump, the manifold pressure sensor or the fuel injector so changing the wiring harness would probably be needed too.
If it is, that would be a total PITA.
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


AmBraCol

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Reply #5 on: January 16, 2018, 04:53:42 pm

The only factory carburated UCE's I'm aware of are the 350cc models sold in India.


The Bullet 500 (I believe you folks in the US call them B5's) sold here in Colombia is also carburated.  I've been eyeing the one on the dealer's floor since it arrived, but don't have the $$ or garage space... anyway, as noted above, the $$$ to swap it over to EFI would be much higher than any advantage obtained.
Paul

2015 Royal Enfield Rumbler 500


suitcasejefferson

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Reply #6 on: February 14, 2018, 12:34:47 am
As someone who converted my 2013 from EFI to a carb, using the Hitchcock's kit, I just have to scratch my head and wonder why someone would want to ruin a perfectly good carbureted bike with EFI. The Enfield is not a modern bike, and IMO should not have all that computer crap on it. I bought mine with the intention of converting it. The carb conversion, along with a smaller lighter non cat exhaust has resulted in a much improved bike. It sounds way  better, with a carb you can turn down the idle to where you can here the THUMP. Throttle response is also much improved, it is now crisp and clean, where it used to hesitate when the throttle was whacked open suddenly. EFI really means EPA, and not only is there no benefit to the owner, but performance is not as good, and you are stuck with a lot of expensive failure prone electronics that you can't work on. You can fry the fuel pump just by running out of gas. I still have the EFI parts I removed, including the fuel pump, if anybody needs them.
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swingarm

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Reply #7 on: February 21, 2018, 08:53:15 am
Agreed. I've finally restored my C5 from carburetor back to EFI to make it roadworthy for sale as a registered vehicle. I was very happy with the carby conversion but sadly it's considered a modification to the emission system in this great state of Victoria, Australia.

It's the original Hitchcocks kit. Happy to sell it for a reasonable price. Message me for details if interested.


suitcasejefferson

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Reply #8 on: February 21, 2018, 02:42:34 pm
Fortunately here in the U.S. there is no inspection for motorcycles. I doubt there are but a very few emissions legal bikes in the whole country. Even the ones with EFI have had the exhaust and air cleaner replaced and retuned with an electronic tuner.
"I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker"
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swingarm

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Reply #9 on: February 21, 2018, 11:59:01 pm
There are no regular inspections here, except a road-worthiness certificate to transfer a registered bike to the new owner. This precludes most modifications that are deemed to alter emissions. It wouldn't be worth the effort to try with the carby conversion.

You might also upset a police officer enough to have the book thrown at you in the form of a road-worthiness inspection. At that point you were probably being a knob anyway  ;D


Jako

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Reply #10 on: February 22, 2018, 10:31:20 am
Hi Swingarm, When you said your kit is the original Hitchcock kit  do you mean the  kit  that uses a new flywheel and electrics ect ?
2020 Rav Red Interceptor (wife's bike) ,Interceptor 2019 bakers express ,  2021 Honda cb500X, 2021  euro4 Himalayan (wife's)


swingarm

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Reply #11 on: February 22, 2018, 09:26:33 pm
Hi Swingarm, When you said your kit is the original Hitchcock kit  do you mean the  kit  that uses a new flywheel and electrics ect ?

Yes, that's correct.


Rattlebattle

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Reply #12 on: February 22, 2018, 10:45:14 pm
According to Hitchcocks when I bought my kit just before SCJ they found that it isn’t necessary to change the generator stator as supplied with the more expensive original conversion like yours. I’ve often wondered if this is right, though mine seems to go well enough and certainly the tickover is both slower and more reliable than when it was EFI.
For pre-Euro IV bikes at least we can still carry out these mods in the U.K. What the position will be for Euro IV bikes is unclear to me right now. The first ones won’t be due for an MOT test until January 2020 (3 years from date of first registration). So far I’ve seen nothing about what, if any, changes to the testing regime will be carried out. At the moment bikes are not tested for emissions as cars are. I believe it’s inevitable that emissions testing for bikes will happen; the issue is whether or not it’ll be retrospective. We’ll see. It wouldn’t surprise me if an ABS warning light not extinguishing is a fail, as with cars. Up to now the owner has been able to remove the ABS but as it’s now compulsory I doubt that’ll be an option...
I’ve also modified my Triumph Thruxton, in this case by remapping the ECU using TuneEcu to suit the aftermarket exhaust and air filter etc. Again, as a pre-Euro IV bike that’s ok, but it seems that direct flashing of the ECU isn’t possible on the later Triumphs. The key thing is that I can restore both bikes to standard. As a matter of interest, when you put it all back to EFI did you have any issues with either getting it to run properly or having the MIL light up? With the later conversion like mine you get the choice of either having the MIL on all the time or disconnecting the bulb feed wire and not having it light at all. Originally I opted for the former, using the light to confirm that the ignition is on. Recently though I bought a neat little LED voltmeter that I’ve wired to switched live, so in effect that now confirms the ignition is on ( and allows me to confirm that the r/r is still working properly), so now I’ve disconnected the MIL. I’m now contemplating remove the MIL gauge and replacing it with an ammeter. I don’t need the low fuel warning light with the reserve fuel tap and anyway the ethanol will probably dissolve the float before long. Just need to figure out how to wire in the ammeter....
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swingarm

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Reply #13 on: February 23, 2018, 11:27:10 pm
The full conversion was easy enough to do. Tip the bike onto the left side to pull the cover and replace the flywheel. I used a new cover gasket both times. It's probably not needed. Remove EFI unit. Install the new wiring loom and ignition unit. Replace O2 sensor with a blanking plug. Remove throttle boy and control cables. Install carby and throttle cable. The air slide ('choke') isn't need in our climate. Replace the fuel pump with plate and tap. Fire up and enjoy. The bike fired up immediately with the conversion and back to EFI. I had problems after a couple of months with poor soldering in the supplied ignition unit causing a miss. That was easy to fix and is a proactive check I'd recommend in hindsight.

The caby is definitely better with what's best described as a 'fatter' throttle response after some tuning to get the slide size and needle height right. AMALs are incredibly easy to fiddle with.

The most frustrating thing is control cable routing, particularly going back to the EFI.
 


swingarm

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Reply #14 on: February 25, 2018, 12:34:05 am
As a matter of interest, when you put it all back to EFI did you have any issues with either getting it to run properly or having the MIL light up? With the later conversion like mine you get the choice of either having the MIL on all the time or disconnecting the bulb feed wire and not having it light at all. Originally I opted for the former, using the light to confirm that the ignition is on. Recently though I bought a neat little LED voltmeter that I’ve wired to switched live, so in effect that now confirms the ignition is on ( and allows me to confirm that the r/r is still working properly), so now I’ve disconnected the MIL. I’m now contemplating remove the MIL gauge and replacing it with an ammeter. I don’t need the low fuel warning light with the reserve fuel tap and anyway the ethanol will probably dissolve the float before long. Just need to figure out how to wire in the ammeter....

I didn't have any issues reverting back to EFI. The bike started immediately like nothing had ever happened. I've since replaced a tired battery because the fuel pump isn't happy if the battery isn't up to scratch.

The MIL wasn't an issue for me because the full kit replaces the EFI module with an ignitor box - hence the need for the flywheel change. The full conversion isn't 'tricking' the EFI system like the newer kit does.