[tooseevee]

    Well, things are quiet here so I thought I'd write a minute.

     It snowed here a couple days ago so I decided to take a last ride and shut'erdown, put the battery in a warm place, etc., etc..

     I checked the oil (more later), ran 'er for 5 minutes and then rode to the water. I'm 5 minutes from the water (Atlantic) and 5 minutes back and these old joints and my face don't like it
AtAll.

    And I used to do Toy Runs in the winter  If I kept riding now I would need to put the 30 pilot in.

      So I took a couple pictures and put 'er back in the garage moved over a bit to make room for the snow blower.

       So the oil question. I've never really figured out the oil level the whole time I've had this beast, but I'm sure glad it's not a sight glass.

         Refer to my little diagram:

              (A) Checked before starting. It had sat for 3 weeks.

              (B) After it ran for 15 mins & was shut off for 10.

              (C) Another 30 mins later.

              (D) After an hour (still same as (B).

              (E) Another hour after (D) it's still above the cross-hatched area.

              If I check tomorrow morning it will again be at (A).
              Where does it go? and can anybody asplane it to me?
   

[Kevin Mahoney]

You are using the correct procedure - but the vagaries of oil levels in the UCE are still a mystery ranking right up there with Amelia Earhart

[REpozer]

Yes,.... I have the same machine,...but in stock form. ( Want to trade?)

Anyway, I try to check my oil after a ride,....but,..that does no good if its been sitting a while,..so

After its been sitting (a while) and cold, unscrew the oil stick ( you can call it a dip stick). Re insert into the oil fill hole without scewing it in. Pull it out and read the level. If it shows any oil,.. ( even at the bottom level) srew the oil stick back in , and now start the engine, let it idle/tick-over 3-5 minutes. Stop the the engine, re-pete oil stick procedure of not screwing it in. If oil level is about at half(1/2) mark you are good to ride, any less carefully add enough  to reach half(1/2) mark or so.( carefull of the hot pipe, mine was hot enough to light a ciger with hot tube,...but its gone now )... Dont forget to fully reseat your dip stick,..go ride.

[tooseevee]

You are using the correct procedure - but the vagaries of oil levels in the UCE are still a mystery ranking right up there with Amelia Earhart

             Yes, there have been hundreds of "Sight Glass" posts.

              After my next "Dipstick Post" in a few minutes I will never again bring up the subject   Promise

[tooseevee]

           I checked the oil around 7 this morning and found it 2/5 of the way up the cross-hatched section (not screwed in). I blooped in a tiny bit and raised it to 3/5 of the way up and I'm calling that good.

            The difference from screwd in to not screwd in is 1/5 of the cross-hatched distance.

           I still don't know where the oil goes any more than where Amelia is 

[longstrokeclassic]

Oil can leak out of the crank pin and drop down into the sump if the crank pin is left sitting below the level in the oil tank. 
Run the engine long enough and the scavenge pump will return the excess sump oil into the oil tank thus restoring the oil level back to the original/correct level shown on the dip stick three weeks ago.

Leaving the piston at TDC on compression should not only prevent this but also take the strain off the valve train. 

[Bilgemaster]

Yeah. What portisheadric said. Try parking her with the piston near top dead center and "observe effect on performance" as the old Haynes repair manuals used to advise.  After you've parked, just depress the decompression lever and kickstart her through her stroke until you hear that little hiss and leave her there.  Take a quick oil level measurement just for future reference sake. Then leave her be for a few days..a week..whatever.  My hunch, having a very recently acquired 2005 Bullet 500ES military model seemingly very similar to yours (though pretty much bone stock and without those lovely fancy mods yours sports) and once exhibiting the same oil level weirdness, is that when you return that oil level may be pretty much right where you left it, barring other unlikely dire or not-so-dire problems within.  For additional enlightenment, see "hoohoogoblin's" YouTube video, Royal Enfield Wet Sumping Fix. Sure, he's tinkering with an older Bullet with 4-speed box there, but the principle's the same where it matters.

Once I've rummaged around a bit more and figured out the layout of this forum, I'll properly introduce myself.  Until then, stay warm up there with your RE in RI. I regret to say that it looks like there's another arctic blast hurtling your way even as I write this, so you'd best feed those sled dogs now before the snow blindness sets in and start boiling down that seal blubber as a salve against the frostbite.

P.S. By the bye, I could do without having to play that blank the box--decypher the trippy letters--amateur ornithology quiz game each and every time I post here.  Will those hurdles eventually go away once it becomes clear I'm not a cyborg or peddling Glamour Gold Ageless Cream, like one sees over there on those Enfield forums in India? One can only presume those "lads" must rub that stuff onto their clutch plates for delightful and effortless shifting or something...

[Arizoni]

I don't recall how many posts you need to make before "the test" goes away.  I think it's 3 or 4 but after passing it, your next posts will post almost instantly.

Happy New Year.