Author Topic: Worm Nut / Quill bolt issue (Read 7532 times)

sherman_desouza · **on:** November 14, 2017, 02:47:05 am

Hi,
I am still a newb at this stuff. this is my first oil change on the bullet!

1. I removed the quill bolt to do an oil change and the neoprene seal came off with it. I asked the guy who rebuilt the motor if it shouldn't have been bonded to the work and he mentioned it was a press fit seal and not a bonded type seal. Is that true? should I buy a new worm with a bonded seal and replace it?

2. do you change the washers each time you do an oil change? and are you supposed to use fibre or copper on these drain plugs?

3. my oil filter cap doesnt have an O ring but it has a fibre washer instead. Should there be an O-Ring there? and do you also have to change all the fibre washers and felt washers when you change the filter?

thank you in advance!

ace.cafe · **Reply #1 on:** November 14, 2017, 12:30:19 pm

The seal should be bonded into the worm nut. Just order a new one or two. They are cheap.

Regarding the washers, you can use copper or fiber, but pay attention to the thickness of the drain plug washers. The drain plugs can sometimes be screwed in far enough to block an oil passage, so watch out for that.

sherman_desouza · **Reply #2 on:** November 14, 2017, 03:43:08 pm

Thank you for your response Ace!
just wondering if you happen to know a supplier that stocks these? the ones on ebay from india dont really show a bonded worm.. most of them use a removable seal...
same goes for the washers.. do I just buy any from a autoparts store while keeping in mind the sizes?

ace.cafe · **Reply #3 on:** November 14, 2017, 03:52:39 pm

Cycles of Silver Spring, or RE of Ft Worth should have them.

sherman_desouza · **Reply #4 on:** November 14, 2017, 04:19:55 pm

thank you!

RE350 · **Reply #5 on:** November 15, 2017, 05:10:11 am

What year is your bike? I have a 1999 350 standard US export model and it came new with a non bonded neoprene version of the cork seal. The non bonded neoprene seal was used along with the older cork material version up till the late 1990s. My machine is verification that not all Enfield's were getting the bonded seal as late as 1999.

sherman_desouza · **Reply #6 on:** November 17, 2017, 01:13:28 am

Mine is a bastardised 1979.. was originally a 350 but I changed the entire motor to a 500... the year of the 500 is suspect because it seems to be a mix of metric and imperial stuff... the seal in the worm nut is indeed non bonded and most of the suppliers from india say that you can only buy those from Royal Enfield now... which is surprising since Hitchcock's and Bakers both have the bonded style but are pretty pricey for me to ship to Canada...
How good are the non bonded type at sealing the oil to the crankshaft? and do you replace it by sliding it onto the quill bolt and threading the bolt in? or do I need to open the timing chest cover and replace the seal on the worm there?
I am learning as I go and dont want to have a seized motor

Bullet Whisperer · **Reply #7 on:** November 17, 2017, 07:35:55 am

I use the cork seals in the 350 racer's engine, it reaches 9500 rpm and I am happy with them and have never seen one fail, although I change them from time to time when doing maintenance work. I just press them into the worm nut with my thumb and I don't even soak them in oil first, just smear some oil on them just before I fit them.
Here is a picture of the 350 being checked over, after the last round of racing and about half a dozen wins.
B.W.

sherman_desouza · **Reply #8 on:** November 17, 2017, 09:32:30 pm

Thank you for your response!

Stanley · **Reply #9 on:** November 17, 2017, 10:40:48 pm

Hello, similar question.
2000 Iron Barrel here.
I just opened my timing cover to try Paul's intake retard trick and found a shrunken black (rubber or cork?) seal. I have a new worm with a loose rubber seal on hand. Should I use it or wait for a cork or bonded worm?

ace.cafe · **Reply #10 on:** November 17, 2017, 11:33:53 pm

It just needs to fit well to prevent leaking of the oil from the crank.

Stanley · **Reply #11 on:** November 17, 2017, 11:58:15 pm

Thanks, Tom

RE350 · **Reply #12 on:** November 18, 2017, 05:55:17 pm

I have been making my own seal (unbonded) using neoprene laboratory stoppers which are the better quality. The quill hole in the stopper should be a little off center to lessen the chance of rotation of the seal which is a main cause of failure of the non-bonded cork or neoprene seals. I prefer this neoprene seal over the cork seals I was using that tended to break apart after about 1000-1500 miles. The quality of some of the seals is another factor.

Tarnand · **Reply #13 on:** November 18, 2017, 10:47:38 pm

Quote from: Bullet Whisperer on November 17, 2017, 07:35:55 am

I use the cork seals in the 350 racer's engine, it reaches 9500 rpm and I am happy with them and have never seen one fail, although I change them from time to time when doing maintenance work. I just press them into the worm nut with my thumb and I don't even soak them in oil first, just smear some oil on them just before I fit them.
Here is a picture of the 350 being checked over, after the last round of racing and about half a dozen wins.
B.W.

Paul,
from the photo you are posting I am guessing you make your own cork seals. Right?

Bullet Whisperer · **Reply #14 on:** November 19, 2017, 02:31:00 pm

Quote from: Tarnand on November 18, 2017, 10:47:38 pm

Paul,
from the photo you are posting I am guessing you make your own cork seals. Right?

No, just the ordinary ones anyone can buy ...
B.W.

Kevin Mahoney · **Reply #15 on:** November 20, 2017, 01:28:25 am

All RE's imported into the US since 1995 have the neoprene worm nut seal. They are easily obtainable. Cork was used for 50 years and worked fine, just wears out quicker.

Tarnand · **Reply #16 on:** November 21, 2017, 02:33:59 am

Quote from: Bullet Whisperer on November 19, 2017, 02:31:00 pm

No, just the ordinary ones anyone can buy ...
B.W.

That is basically what I expected; you just buy a small cork at local hardware store, drill hole in it and squeeze it into the worm nut cavity. That is what I have done this summer and it worked fine.

dbmgassociates@gmail.com · **Reply #17 on:** July 27, 2021, 01:02:40 pm

hi All - i just ordered the cork seal from the hitchcocks. do i need to just press them into worm nut or do i need to put adhesive to fix them inside? please advise.

thanks

AzCal Retred · **Reply #18 on:** July 28, 2021, 12:10:45 am

So far I have used the neoprene exclusively. I have several cork seals and a cork Quill nut, but haven't got around to that yet. The corks are tremendously variable in consistency that I've bought. Also, BW shows his far inside the Quill nut, but all my corks are much longer than that; looks like they would need trimming to fit. I'd like to see a video of someone fitting up a cork seal, looks like an acquired 1930's-ish skill to me. Hitchcocks sell the neoprene for about $17 USD, and a neoprene seal can't shed chunks of cork into the oil passage leading to the crank as you press it home, which might not end well. I know cork is "traditional", but inadvertently fragging the crank on my dinosaur doesn't appeal. I'm certain Western Cycle Supply keeps these in stock as well.

I modified the quill bolt by rounding the tip with a fine file and 1500 grit. I think this will make it harder to inadvertently grab rubber or cork as you seat it home.

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/crankcase/2246
PART No. 144452 ; WORM NUT, WITH BONDED IN SEAL ; £12.50

https://westerncyclesupply.com/

AzCal Retred · **Reply #19 on:** July 28, 2021, 01:27:36 am

There are also these:

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/7612
PART No. 42114 ; OIL FEED RUBBER SEAL ; £2.20