[Superchuck]

Greetings,

In regard to chain tension (rear), I believe the Snidal manual states that you should have about 2" of slack when seated on the bike. 

I interpret that to mean, "while you're seated, have your friend grab the chain at its droopiest section.  It should be able to freely move 2 vertical inches."

I find this to be a very loose chain.  A few years ago I lost a few teeth on the stock rear sprocket due to chain looseness.  Maybe it got a bit looser than recommended, but I've been sensitive to this since replacing the sprocket.

I have the stock rear suspension installed (at maximum preload), and it's not uncommon for me to ride two-up with the Misses.  As you all know, the stock shocks are garbage, and with 2-up it's not unheard of for us to bottom-out.  Even when riding solo (spirited) I've had a few rear bottoms-out.

This got me thinking... Yes, I know a big recommendation is to replace the rear shocks, but at the moment I can't justify the cost.  I also do not think that will answer my following question.  At the moment I'm interested in chain tension: 

Have any of you considered installing a spring-loaded chain-tensioner?  There are lots of aftermarket MX ones, and some more expensive 'custom cruiser' tensioners as well.

My thought is that a chain tensioner would help prevent chain-slippage on the rear sprocket and teeth breakage.  It would also flex when needed for the unfortunate reality of the occasional bottom-out, thus preventing undue stress on an over-tight chain.

Am I crazy?  Are there any other crazies out there?

Cheers,
Chuck

[DanB]

Hi Chuck. That is too loose. You want around 1.5 to 1.75 in on the center stand.

Singh5g did a great video. It's on a G5, but the same concepts apply.
https://youtu.be/j4IZ6diJP9w

If you search the forum on chain tension, you'll get a lot of good information and the rationale behind the numbers.

[Superchuck]

Oh, so about 1.5" with no rider, bike on centerstand?

Thanks!  I will check out that video, etc as well.  This is not something I researched much before, and you can see my confusion and naivety.

Cheers!
Chuck

[tooseevee]

          Early on in the spring (May I guess) I started noticing a strange little "noise" on the '08 at medium cruising speeds in 4th and 5th. It sounded sort of like a cable or wire would sound being blown against a fender or fender brace. Sort of a low frequency, rapid "tinktinktink". I looked everywhere from every direction and even rerouted and tied down differently a few wires, etc., then would go for a ride and it would still be there. At my age and physical condition, I don't want trouble on the road so any "not rightness" or "not bulletproofness" or "heart murmers" make me nuts.

       I finally decided to go ahead and do the chain (1st time) although to me it did not seem loose. I've read a lot of horror stories over the years about how bitchy it can be to adjust AVL chain, those blasted snails and all that, but I had no problem at all; went slow and methodical and held the right look on my face.

        I went back one snail notch on each side, buttoned it all up and had previously written a big note to myself on my bench "Don't Forget The Rear Brake Rod" (I have to cover ALL the bases ). One notch tighter ended me up at 1 1/2" slack 1/2way between the sprockets on the center stand (I never ride double).

         Took a ride - noise gone - shit city Still don't see exactly why the noise (it didn't seem THAT loose) but that definitely was it.   

         PS: I think a small spring-loaded chain tensioner might be just the thing for these bikes. Difficult part would be getting just the right one out of the many "out there".  And you still have to do the same routine checks and maintenance, of course.

[Arizoni]

I don't know about the AVL's but on the UCE's, sometimes, the chain noises heard is the upper run of chain rubbing on a rubber block that is located on the cross tube that connects the trailing arm legs.  It's located right behind the transmission output sprocket.

This rubber "bumper block", the metal it's connected to and the bolt that tightens it in place don't even show up in my Parts Manual but I just went out to my G5 and looked.
Sure enough, it was there.

Mine didn't show any recent marks on it that would indicate the chain had bumped it but then, I adjust my chain to the specifications shown in my UCE Owners Manual which is about a 1" total movement of the run of chain at the middle of the run between sprockets.
(The owners manual is rather vague about when this slack applies so I adjust it with the motorcycle resting on both wheels and the sidestand.)

[longstrokeclassic]

From the offset wear pattern on my rubber block the chain was too far to one side trying to run off the edge because the welds on the swinging arm prevented the block from sitting in the correct position.  I dremelled away at the nylon? material until it sat snug against the arm and now the chain rollers (not the plates) glide over the top of the block whenever the chain makes contact.