[Fragman]

So is hockey tape.

[Blairio]

This may already have been covered, but is the pump continuously running because the system is either not pressurising or believes it is not pressurising? Or perhaps the pump has lost its 'mojo?

[Haggis]

There is no pressure switch in the fuel system. The pump has no idea if it's up to pressure or not, it seems to be a timed event at initial switch on and then runs continuously one the engine is running. If the pump is working properly the fuel line to the injector should be around 3bar.

[Arizoni]

I think the idea behind the pump running for a few seconds and then stopping is, it pumps up the pressure in the fuel line so the engine can start but it shuts off before you hit the start button so there is some extra battery power available to crank the starter motor.

After the engine fires up, full electrical power is then returned to the fuel pump.

[Blairio]

I think the idea behind the pump running for a few seconds and then stopping is, it pumps up the pressure in the fuel line so the engine can start but it shuts off before you hit the start button so there is some extra battery power available to crank the starter motor.

After the engine fires up, full electrical power is then returned to the fuel pump.

The logic of this appeals to me, but if this idea was properly implemented, it should not be possible to crank the starter before the fuel pump had finished its priming phase.

Mind you, how often do the words 'logic' and 'Enfield' find themselves in the same sentence?

[Mad4Bullets]

To all

Because of the intermittent nature of this problem it has been difficult to recreate and diagnose, but here I am finally with a positive update. I pulled out the ECU and when I rotated its harness slightly I caught a glimpse of copper through a hole worn through the black tape, presumably the result of vibration and unintended contact with a bracket. I peeled back the black tape to reveal a black wire and a white wire with a black strip both had a bit of their insulation missing, exposing the wire which was apparently giving a ground fault   I then made sure nothing exposed was touching and turned on the key. The bike primed perfectly. You guys really know your stuff. It's just as you said. BRAVO & THANK YOU ALL!

So I'll surely need to wrap the harness better to protect against future abrasion, but how best to repair these very small bits of missing insulation which are the width of a pencil lead? Would a liquid brush-on insulation suffice for the repair? It's just the insulation. The wire is not affected. Thanks again to all.

Regards,

Kevin Daly

[heloego]

Might work just fine.Be sure to brush each wire seperately and allow to cure before doing the next wire.
Or simply set up a non-conductive barrier between the wires. Like electrical tape.

[Mad4Bullets]

Thanks. My plan is to coat each wire separately and let each cure fully before rewrapping the wires. Most importantly I plan to add a short length of spit tubing to the ECU bracket that abraded the wires. Then I'll ride all over town with a huge smile.