[erob123]

08 Military Iron Valve adjustment 1540 miles and checking after 200 mi ride last Thurs.

Where's TDC? Dumb question I know but:

Did 1st adjustment at 1000 didn't have TDC tool, did decompress with amp meter.  Felt about right except fine tuned intake for twist freely.  Been running great no valve clatter.
Now have TDC tool, seems way off  When using tool and stroking to highest point.  Valves tight, no free rotate.  Is this where I should readjust?  Seems way off.  Did I not read something right about decompress/amp meter?
Another stupid question, Top of stroke or TDC.  I think I just answered my question. Top dead center of stroke.  Please help confirm.  Sgt. York has been good to me and don't want to ruin now.  How do you use a TDC tool?  Thanks again gang.
Eric

[ace.cafe]

You adjust the valves at TDC(top dead center) on the COMPRESSION STROKE.
This is the point where both valves are closed fully, and the lifters are resting on the back of the base circle of the cams, for the point of lowest position for the pushrods.
You find TDC on the compression stroke by rotating the engine with the sparkplug in, until you feel the compression build-up. You can feel the pressure/resistance to movement, so you know it is the compression stroke.
Remove the sparkplug.
Put your little stick or TDC tool, or whatever youve got into the sparkplug hole and slowly rotate the engine until the stick or tool is sticking up at it's highest point. Make sure it doesn't bind the stick or break it off, or drop into the cylinder, or anything like that. Be careful.
If you go too far and the stick starts coming down again, you can go back until you get the TDC position.
If you put it in gear, and on the centerstand, you can use the rear wheel to move the engine around.

You can now check to see if the pushrods are tight fitting or loose fitting or what.
And if they need adjusting, you adjust them with the engine in that position.

That's the ballgame.

[Foggy_Auggie]

The ammeter indicates points operation and not mechanical TDC.

Set the point gap first (0.35 mm to 0.4 mm) - set timing by using a TDC gauge and watching the ammeter.  Actual mechanical TDC will be 0.8 mm AFTER the ammeter bump. i.e. the points break will be at 0.8 mm before mechanical TDC.  If the timing is correct.

If advanced too far, rotate points plate clockwise.  If retarded too far, rotate points plate anticlockwise.

Use the TDC gauge to adjust the valves - not the ammeter.  Want to be able to spin the the pushrods between thumb and forefinger with slight resistance - no up and down movement felt.

[kensar]

Remove spark plug and cover the hole with your thumb. Rotate rear wheel in gear and the engine will tell you when it is on the compression stroke, it will try to blow your thumb off. Put your pencil or whatever you use into the plug hole until it rests on top of piston and watch the pencil until it reaches the highest point. TDC. Cheers, Ken.

[bob bezin]

i just turn the motor over till i see both pushrods reach the lowest point . then check them for tightness .6800 miles and the sparkplug hasn't been out since the carb was dialed in.

[Chasfield]

If you are at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke your exhaust valve will still be well open and your inlet valve will have opened in advance of the induction stroke, so push rods will be lifted high.

All will be fully closed with push rods low at TDC at the end of the compression stroke. This is the condition for checking clearances - i.e. valve train unloaded.

[cyrusb]

I'm with  Bob Bezin on this one, It's not that critical. When your points open(ammmeter jump) thats good enough. The base circles of the cams are big. I have not had my plug out in 3000 miles, thats quite a few valve checks,no problems.
 

[jopro]

I use the simple tools: take a carbon pen.. put it in the spark plug hole.. once and you'll feel once it is at the top.. to do that : put the bike on center stand in 4th gear or 5th if you have and rotate the back wheel..