[MAC]

Howdy folks,

Have a 2000 Military that was converted with the low end electronic ignition kit...

I've noticed a severe charging problem and have troubleshot and figured the regulator is kaput.

My question for you is what regulator would y'all recommend?

Should I just stick with the standard OEM rectifier and regulator pair or does anyone have experience with the Boyer Power Box or the 12V regulator that replaces both rectifier and regulator?

[Kevin Mahoney]

If you unplug the rectifier portion of the rectifier/regualor unit (regualtor is the one on the right) and the bike charges you know the regulator is bad. If not then it is something else. It is far more likely to be something else.

[MAC]

RE1...

Before I read your reply, I was getting 22VAC across the violet leads going into the rectifier and roughly 10VDC and 5VDC from ground between the rectifier and regulator... that's why I figured the rectifier or regulator was bad... 22 into each side of the rectifier should give me about 30VDC peak out, and roughly 19VDC to be regulated... (the RE's rectifier is a bridge, right?)

...that was before I read your post... I unplugged the regulator and I swear the system got even crazier (lower voltage readings and battery voltage dropped under 12VDC.)

So now I am completely confused.  Should I suspect the alternator and assume the 22VAC I saw coming from it to be no load, and that the load from the rectifier and regulator is enough to draw too much from it? (Hair is being pulled right now.)

[Kevin Mahoney]

OK It seems as if you "get it" when it comes to the electrics of your bike so I will try to be brief.
I might expect to see more like 40 volts AC across those leads. I would take off the primary cover and make sure that you have no less than .006" clearance at the closest point between the rotor and stator. Make sure no "junk" has built up between the two.
  Then measure the voltage when the bike is at 2000 rpms or more. If you think it is adequate, check the DC voltage across your battery. Should be around 14 volts when the engine is running at a good clip. All of this making sure all your connections are good. One other thing to check on a 2000 model is the grounds. You may find that they are not that great because of powdercoating on the frame, Remove the battery box and remove the cluster of grounds. Sand off the lug they are bolted to and make sure there is not powercoating. This is all stuff you should do in any event on that year bike. One last thing to try is to stick the probes of your VOM to the black and red leads coming out of the R/R unit. You can't remove the plug. See what you get. I am guessin that you have a weak alternator though.

[MAC]

I appreciate the help, RE1.

Ground connections are solid. I cleaned them up anyways and now I've got barely enough juice left to keep the bike running - time to charge the battery again.

Seeing how the alternator is 8+ years old - I reckon there's no harm in replacing it with the heavy-duty kit.  Seeing how I'd have to drain and pull the cover to check the old one anyhow - I'm just going to do it once and replace the darn thing. 

Any specialty tools required for this job?

[mrunderhill1975a]

I will be interested in what you find inside.  My system is acting up as well.....but, only intermittently.  Seems to work fine in the morning, but in the heat of the day the ammeter is off and then abruptly on for a while.  I thought it was perhaps a connection, but I have cleaned every connection I can find to little or no avail.  I have yet to disconnect the regulator but I am waiting for the circuit to stop working long enough to try that.

Bye the way, I talked with Jeff at CMW and he indicated that the HD regulator would not be appropriate on a kick start bullet without the HD alternator as well.

[DonK]

I'm having an electrical problem also. 500cc May 1999 Bullet.  My bike stopped charging and It ran  running only on the battery until it died.  I have no problem starting or keeping it running as long as there is power, battery or system charging. Trailered it home, checked all the connections from alternator to amp meter, put it back together, went for a ride,  charging resumed but I noticed the amp meter jumped to the left. not charging, headed for home, charging resumes. It goes on and off totally at random. checked alternator output, 30 volts when revved, unplugged regulator, stopped charging,checked ignition switch, It happens at both positions. can't seem to get to test anything when not charging I'm thinking rectifier? would that cut out randomly?  I'm afraid to go too far from home, Need help, suggestions.

[LotusSevenMan]

DonK
Could also be a fractured wire in the loom making and breaking with vibration/bumps etc.
I hate intermittent electrical faults.
Good luck with the tracing of the problem !!!!!

[PhilJ]

It is very rare for a wire to separate in the middle of a run. Unless the harness has been pinched or stretched.  Most problems as your having will probably be found at some connection point. Don't forget to check all grounds too.

[mrunderhill1975a]

Update of my erratic alternator-regulator.....After reading Kevins suggestions
I removed the primary cover to look at the alternator, there was bit of swarf attached to the rotor magnets, less than I expected, and I was able to remove the swarf with 2"x2" rag on a screw driver. More importantly, the rotor appeared to be a bit eccentric and would actually touch the stator as it rotated through a cycle.  I re-adjusted the stator using strips of plastic milk jugs as spacers.  I believe the rotor is still slightly eccentric, but now it does not touch the stator at any points.  I buttoned it up, and took it for a ride, and the alternator seemed to charge nicely.  Hopefully, this was the cause of the erratic operation of my alternator.

[clamp]

Phew thats bad, I mean its good that you fixed it but eccentric alternator bits

[cyrusb]

mrunderhill1975a..Is the rotor running out or is it the crankshaft itself? Does the end of the crank orbit too?

[mrunderhill1975a]

Cyrusb,
I'm not completely sure if it is just the rotor or if the end of the crank is running out.  I do not have a dial guage available to measure the orbit of the crank, but, as for the rotor/stator air gap, there is approximantely 0.003" runout or about half the recommended air gap between the rotor and stator at the nearest point.  That "nearest point" makes it's way around the stator as rotor turns.

I was not able to see any play in the crank when I try and deflect it with my fingers.  So, was it like this from the factory,? I don't know.

Anyway, if you guys have your primary cover off, check the runout, maybe this is within factory specs.

[clamp]

That certainly would be my concern, rotor or crank. Is there any dowels in the primary  case?

       I know that wont fix it, but it would explain how it worked ok once.

     I think it would more likely be the rotor.    I hope for you.